CLOSED JD Fabrication/81Trekker Suspension Group Buy CLOSED

I run 35s and my tires rub the upper wheel well super bad all the way around the top. To properly fit 35s without losing up travel, you have to tub. I have the LCA mount kit but haven't had time to install yet, but I guarantee it will rub the front worse.

I used to run dual batteries in that front spot, but my whole wheel well is all cracked and the body support is cracked and torn from the weight. I relocated both batteries to solve the issue.

For me, 35s don't rub much for rock crawling slow type stuff, but anything high speed and they are constantly hitting the wheel well. Just so you know!

 

This is why we changed the travel range on the LT kit. You get a lot more dropout via the 934 CV’s and limited the uptravel so you don’t have to tub. The kit still cycles 13” and at ride height sits in the middle of the travel as opposed to most tacos that sit pretty much dropped out at ride height making them ride like crap

 

That's awesome. I did read that in the other thread. Doesn't help stock travel people, but it's a great feature for the LT kit. When you say that the uptravel is limited, does that mean that if I were to tub (which I'm doing anyways), there's a way to remove the uptravel limit? Or is it a hard stop?

 

There are a lot of variables here. How wide tall are your tires in reality, backspacing of wheels, where is the wheel in fender, what size bumpstops do you have, etc, all play into it. I expect there to be some hammering, but full tub is not an option for me at this time. I'm not afraid to put a spacer above the shock to make it longer, and then limit uptravel with the bumpstop. Hopefully my RCV axles will be here soon, which I understand have slightly more angular movement than stock, and a lot more strength while working at high angles.

I don't mind a little rub at full stuff and locked, that is always low speed and can 'decide' to continue on the gas with the rubbing or back off some. When straight-ish, as in a high speed full compression, hoping the tires don't rub in a spot that would gouge them and tear treadblocks. Smooth rub, with bumpstop nearly all the way compressed, is OK with me. We will see how it goes.

Thanks for the heads up though, more info and correct expectations are always good.

 

For sure, there are tonnes of variables. I currently have Duratracs in 315/75r16 that are around 30% tread. I'm running procomp 7069 wheels with 4.5" backspace. With those I rubbed on the frame behind the LCA at full lock no matter what. I have since had to put in 1.25" spacers to match the rear (needed the extra space to clear my rear shocks), and I don't rub the frame anymore, but am all over my firewall. My cab mount is fully relocated. I'm also currently running King extended travel coilovers on the front. Though I rubbed just as much when I ran BP-51's. I have Wheelers superbumps and SPC uppers and stock lowers with the alignment pushed all the way forward.

Like I said, without limiting up travel, you will for sure be into the top of the wheel well when you go hard. I believe @tetten would tell you the same thing. I don't hit the top of the wheel well just driving dirt roads, but when I get going fast over bigger bumps I basically grinding away constantly. There's a few videos and pictures on my instagram @overlandoutfitters showing what I'm doing that rubs so bad. I refuse to lose travel, so tubbing is the only way for me, especially as I'm moving to 37s or perhaps 40s if I decide it's worth all of the other sacrifices that come with that.

 

If you're going fast it'll almost certainly rub the fenderwells at full stuff. In part because of the soft body mounts and thin sheet metal flex downward as the wheels come up.

I rubbed on 33s going fast. The only solution is to either slow down or tub.

Or do this:

 

It will be slow down, if issues that are unacceptable. I'm not looking to light the world on fire, lol.

 

How about a banana?

 

Some times you just have to charge and cut things out that are in the way

 

exactly. My life would definitely be easier right now with an engine hoist.

 

Rubbing the frame or cab mount is really annoying. Rubbing the top of the fender liner is less of an issue because it's smooth metal, and you don't hear or feel it.

 

This GB proves that most of TW is all talk and analytical skeptics who are more concerned about trying to show how smart they think they are than actually throwing down.

"I have spoken."

 

I will say all these parts are for hardcore guys who are down to actually use the truck. I’m not interested in creating bolt on parts that look cool on Instagram. This thread will really show who’s down for the cause and who just wants more followers

 

You will. Fitting 35s with bump stop spacers (Dirt King stock length lowers) and still rubbing front under the battery and obviously the firewall. Keep in mind my truck has been in a prior wreck so I can only get 2* or so of caster but I still rub up front. If you're going to go 35s and are planning on wheeling, expect to work for it. If you don't want to do the work then stick with 33s.

Start cutting.



and cut more...



and more...


Remove more stuff out of the way.


Check clearance


See more on my build thread. I don't want to clutter @Arcticelf's thread. Was just relevant to the conversation.

 

Put me down for the LCA pivots and the steering kit!

 

yes.

however, now probably isn't the best time to start a group buy for high dollar items, might have better luck next year at the rate this coronavirus thing appears to be going.

 

come on now, most people just got a $1200 govn’t check. The American thing to do would be support small businesses. Not put it in your savings...

 

Will do

 

It's all good. You've.got some good work going there.

There's already a buy bolt-on shit on the internet thread

 

Put me down for the LCA mount.

Accommodation for 5/8” hardware would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise, plan B, as discussed with JD Fab.