CLOSED - The Retrofit Source GB

Agreed for the interim, however a ballast is a device that can slowly sip on electricity without being detected without using a meter.

 

The proper H4 harness from TRS does use a relay box. The headlight socket only provides the control signals for the control/relay box, which is on it's own fuse.

But I do agree on bypassing the harness temporarily for testing in the driveway.
That's why TRS provides the spare pigtails, and helped me to find a grounding issue on the passenger side.

Passenger light was WAY intermittent, and usually would not fire.
Went to the pigtail and it lit off every time.

The bolt on the radiator support that secures the AC pipe is not a good ground source.

 

My drivers side works 100% of the time. When I switched the suspected bad ballast to the drivers side it would not work so grounding isn't the issue I believe. Having power come straight from the battery still isn't going to make the ballastit work since it's already bad. I'm confused why I would be doing that now.

 

Think they were saying as a diagnosis on whether it was a bad ground but seems as if you already have it narrowed down to a bad ballast

 

Have you TRIED going direct just to test it?

 

Wooo Hooo, I just placed my order. Does anyone know how many more orders before shipping?

 

Id have to agree with you on that, it should have been captured somewhere in a description that something was broken.

 

Just pulled the trigger on some FX-R's

 

This is my idea right now. Where my finger is I will cut flat then make a new backside to it with hole for the shank to come through.

 

Just sprung for the D2S. Didn't see a comments section on checkout to insert my screen name though...

 

Finally pulled the trigger on some H1's looking forward to getting them. Anyone know how many orders we are up to or when the next shipment is?

 

Finished mine over the weekend. Everything was good until my passenger high beam wires came loose inside after I sealed it . I'll fix it next week. Thanks for the group buy!

 

I Never left my name either and still got the GB, they let people on other forums use our GB code too I think until they get others ones set up, so I guess it doesn't matter.






A lot of people are going with Mini's and I'm not sure why.

[FONT=&quot]The minis aren't as simple to install as some cars on our trucks. The mounting tabs for the bulb are actually rotated slightly off vertical. So in order to get them to align properly, you have to take the alignment washer and grind it down to give it the ability to rotate in the bulb slots. Then because they made the Mini's threaded shaft shorter you have to take the back of the housing and cut it down so it's not as thick.

[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]My only problem with that is you are making the reflector bowl thinner and still bolting something through it. FXR you just cut a hole to fit the projector and mount the projector inside and the reflector bowl is just as thick.

[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Quite honestly the FXR is going to give you a taller beam pattern, ability to run 55w which is 1.5 times brighter than what you will get out of the Minis and they are just as easy if not easier than installing the Mini. If you have to cut the housing you might as well get the better projector.

[/FONT][/FONT]
[/FONT]

 

I got my install done over the weekend but am having one issue that I am hoping for some help on. The daytime running lights work as do the blinkers. However, when I turn on the headlights the side marker lamps and the front yellow lamps turn off. Does anyone have any ideas on what to check?

 

I went with the minis with the impression of not cutting anything. I later found out that I have to shave the reflectors a little and I was ok with it. A little shave is still better than cutting a hole. And it was my first retrofit ever. I feel like I can do FXRs now after having some experience. For now, I'm satisfied with the minis. I might do the FXRs in the future

 

Well my passenger side high beam was not working. Put a 12v source to the wires and that didn't work. Which lead me to think the wires were loose. They're not. I removed the housing and attempted to see what's going on. Well I can't get my shroud out because it's jb welded. This leads me to think that when I jb welded the shroud, some of it dripped onto the solenoid. So be careful!

 

JB? Yikes.
All the shroud needs is a little high-temp RTV.

The JB references are generally to the FXR

Front yellow should shut off with the headlights.
Marker lights are going out too? You have an issue but it is not related to the new headlights. Could be a bad contact in the stalk.

Not my understanding. The GB codes change frequently because they "get out".
It was also indicated last year that the GB prices are for active TW members when we had a shitload of brand new users posting "I'm in"

In reality, it doesn't appear to be enforced, but the TW code is for TW only.
Other forums have their own codes unless TRS shares the TW code.

 

Should've known better

 

Lol I used JB on my minis too. At least I know they're not popping off the projector if I hit a huge bump.

 

We definitely recommend actual epoxy and not a sealant for mounting the shrouds, actually.