CLOSED - The Retrofit Source GB

Yea u put the metal ring first, then the rubber and the nut?

Thats what i did and when i twist on the connector to the bulb, it turned the bulb... but i manage to get it on at the end... just trying to see if it is normal, or is the bulb suppose to stay and not move?

 

Bulbs goes in first and there's a notch in the bulb that kinda holds it in then slide metal ring on, then rubber, and finally the nut to hold it all in, bulb prolly just wasnt aligned properly

 

Oh is there a side of the rubber i am suppose to use.
One side is more flat, the other is bevel?
Like the bevel side touches the spilt ring?
Or the flat side touches the spilt ring?

 

Doesn't matter either way works honestly

 

Oh lol... i need to figure out how to make the bulb stay and not turn.....

I messed up one of my nut.... the one that holds down the H4 adapter plate....
I was test fitting, it went on, and wouldnt come off -_-
i need to buy another one from trs....

 

I'm guessing you have h1s ?

 

Disregard haha

 

No, these are Mini D2S

 

Yeah, I find that my bulbs turn also when putting the connector on (D2S). It's rather annoying to get these things aligned, to be honest. The bulbs should have a different method of being clamped to the reflectors, that doesn't require threading something on, but it is what it is.

My passenger ballast D2S connector is really touchy too. If I barely bump the back of it, it the bulb will shut down, such as when trying to adjust the alignment. I've checked the bulb, and both tabs are still there, so not sure why it acts this way. I fear that it may eventually do that while driving.

Anyway, the only advice I can offer is that you get everything installed, including the connector. On the rubber boot to cover over the back of the reflector, I made the hole large enough to fit the ballast connector through. What I do is slide it back down the ballast wires (which also includes the projector wires for the high/low solenoid), so that I can connect the ballast connector, then slide it back over the connector, and seal up the housing.

If you do this, but leave the boot back on the cable, now you can use a pair of large needle nose pliers, and grab the H4 adapter lock ring, and rotate it to align the cutoff. It's a pain, cause the nut is really far down in the reflector bowl, but you should be able to get the very tips of the pliers on there enough to just rotate the thing a little.

After that, just reinstall the boot, and you should be good.

In other news, I'm at the end of my vertical alignment threads, apparently. I tried again to raise the passenger one, and it won't go any higher, so I'm going to have to back down the drivers side a bit if I want them to match. I've also been trying to move both beams outwards, and that seems to be working. I am still slowly adjusting them, as they still seem to converge several feet in front of the vehicle. I like the look of them staying the same distance apart, as a combined cutoff step looks really weird to me.

 

Yea, the D2S definitely much easier with the rotational.
I had to grind down some reflector bowl material to get the H4 adapter plate to fit dead on to the center. SO i know my rotation is good with it. Just need to put some JB Weld on the tabs to keep the rotational dead on the center.

And can you get a picture of what u are trying to describe? I am super confused lol

 

I'm bout to pull the pin and get retros but I have a few questions maybe you guys can answer:

1: how does the wiring to work the high/low work?
2:how do you mount the halos onto the shrouds
3:I have an HID kit installed on my truck already (in stock housing zzz) do I have to replace this kit with the retrofit kit? Or can I just buy the projectors?

 

1. Its wired to the projector and the ballast
2. Most choose to jb weld, or use tiny wire.
3. Yes you have to replace them

 

1. Even though the stock bulbs are H4 (or whatever yours may be), If you're getting Morimoto mini H1's (MMH1) you'll be utilising a H1 HID kit (preferably from trs as they, IMO, excellent quality from what I've seen). You will need a H4 relay harness that'll plug into the HID ballast, high beam wires (coming out from the projector) and your OEM low beam harness on the car.

2. I've seen many people use jb weld..

3. You don't HAVE to, you could just buy H1 bulbs..

 

Hey guys how do u tap the led rings to turn on whenever ur truck is turned on?

 

It'd be easier to tap into the parking lights I think. But just find a wire that gets power when the trucks on and since into it

 

Parking light is the daytime running light right?
It turns on whenever the truck is on?
Will it still be on if I turn on my headlight if I tap it into DTRL?

 

On 2nd gens I believe so, yeah it should stay on not sure how the headlights work on 2nd gens

 

I'd leave the DTRL alone, why not just splice into the corner marker parking light on the end of the housing. Should be close enough by, and easy to do. For 2nd Gens, this light is on in both the parking and headlight switch mode.

 

so you cant just throw a set of morimotos in with my H4 hid bulbs? i dont understand the difference in bulbs, it says its compatible with H4/H7 bulbs

 

No you have to get new bulbs... the D2s and H1s go through where your current bulbs go in. D2s use an alignment ring that is in the shape of your current H4s to "straighten" the projector out. Yo have to have the bulbs that are specific to the projector. by saying its H4 compatible it just means the relay has an H4 plug so you can control the lights just like the stock ones