Clunk noise during sharp turns

Hey all,

I have been experiencing a subtle clacking sound when making a u-turn or parallel parking or turning into a tight spot. Always happened at the extreme end of the turn. Took some photo/video but not sure if you can upload a video on here.in the video you can see the end of the sway bar before the link component come down and tap the tie rod as the suspension goes over a bump either a bump or an incline on the road. I can also see a scratch on the sway bar itself. In this area. It’s happening on both sides driver and passenger.

For context I am running king 2.5 EXT 700lbs springs with Camburg UCA’s. Preload is currently set at where it came from the factory I know the remote resi brackets for king have a sway bar relocate built in and they do seem to be pushing the sway bar away from the coil over.

Trying to avoid removing the sway bar as it’s our only car, the wife is pregnant, and we drive a lot on highways so safety is important and I’d hate to jeopardize that.

Anyone run into this issue before? Any suggested fixes besides removing the sway bar?

 

Sway bar relocate pushes it away enough for clearance

 

Loose wheel bearing ..especially if your running lots of offset on wheels

 

Just remove the sway bar and take it for a ride. If you don't like it or flip over put the relocate on.

Lots loose the sway bar and never look back. Haven't heard of anyone that took it off and felt so unsafe they had to rush to get it back in.

 

Wheels are 17x8.5 -10 offset. This is a 2021. Had em on for less than a year.

 

The lower bucket cap for my coil-overs sits directly above the lower shock eyelet so the spring runs all the way down and I haven't had any binding/contact issues. I used a Supreme suspensions sway bar adapter. Maybe double check that the relocating bracket is installed properly, although I have a hard time imagining that a cheap adapter would solve a problem that the Kings adapter wouldn't. I wouldn't take that front sway bar off, either. especially on a highway driven truck...

 

Took it out and I swear the truck rides better. Firmer shocks like Kings don't permit too much body roll anyways. Might be a different story on OEM shocks

 

It is unclear from your post if you put in the sway bar lowering spacers at the frame or some other type from the manufacture. I needed the ~5/8" thick sway bar lowering spacers available from about anywhere and that took care of my rubbing.

 

CV boot torn and leaking?

 

1. Grind the sway bar down a millimeter at a time until it no longer contacts the tie rod.

2. You can try fabricating shorter sway bar end links with two heim joint rod ends and a fully threaded bolt. Similar in concept to the quick-disconnect link design shown here but use nuts on both ends instead of the thick cotter pin. You'll need to drill out the holes in the spindle and sway bar from 12mm to 1/2" (12.7mm), as metric heim joints are hard to find in North America. However, heim joints get squeaky with dirt ingress, so you'll be trading one noise for another.

The King resi mounts have the sway bar relocation spacers built-in.