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Clunk over bumps while steering.

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Jazz1one, May 25, 2021.

  1. May 25, 2021 at 1:23 PM
    #1
    Jazz1one

    Jazz1one [OP] It is what it is

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    SCS ray 10s. 315/75/16 Yokohama G003. Elka 2.5 dc w/remote resi. SPC uppers. Dobinson heavy leafs. Timbren bumps. Spindle gussets. Cab mount relocate. TRD catback. Toyota trifold tonneau. Full spare in bed. Hood deflector, side visors. Danger Customs Front/rear high clearance bumpers and full skids. 2 way remote start. Safari snorkel. Front 30% tint. Bed step. Anzo LED head lights. Weather tech mats. AllPro HD sliders linexed. 10k smitty x20 synthetic. Factor55 flatlink. Linexed bushwhackers. Rigid industries bumper pods. Ridged industries DSS ditch lights. Diode Dynamics amber pods. Prinsu roof rack. 42” Caliraised Amber single row. Switch Pros in sunglass holder. Custom Bed rail mounts for recovery gear.Northstar AGM battery. 4.88 nitro gears. Front and rear ARB lockers. ARB air compressor in bed cubby using expedition essentials mount.
    I’m looking for ideas on what this issue may be. I get a faint clunking sound from the front end on both driver and passenger side when turning over bumps. Even sometimes when moving from a stop or while braking, but not very consistent there. My entire suspension is fairly new (Elka coil overs, Spc uppers, new lowers)..I don’t run a front sway bar. I recently changed the inner and outer tie rods thinking that would do it. Now I’m starting to think it may be the steering rack? Has anyone had clunking sounds from a bad steering rack?

    I run 35s btw. PFA
    6C0B65EC-368D-4816-B3E8-75C18E0F76A0.jpg
     
  2. May 25, 2021 at 1:31 PM
    #2
    Yukon DoIt

    Yukon DoIt Opinionated Northerner

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    Stock-y
    If it's at full turn, the usual advice is that you should check your steering stops as they may be worn out.
     
  3. May 25, 2021 at 1:33 PM
    #3
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    Mine does the same, and i think i've narrowed it down to the steering shaft. I think i read on here there is some play in them near where they enter the cab. Might be worth looking. Mine is very intermittent, happens when i drive on dirt/rock mainly. Much less noticeable on the road, although it has happened a few times when hitting bumps. I vaguely remember seeing someone zip tie it to fix the issue temporarily
     
    Jazz1one[OP] likes this.
  4. May 25, 2021 at 1:37 PM
    #4
    TenBeers

    TenBeers Well-Known Member

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    Yeah.
    I did the zip tie fix on my 2012 and it fixed it. You basically cut the end off a zip tie and shove it in between the shaft and a bracket to take up some slack. There's a thread on here somewhere.
     
  5. May 25, 2021 at 1:44 PM
    #5
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    if the zip tie fix doesnt do it for you, its likely some slop in the steering rack slider bushing. 1st gens were notorious for this as they had a roller that then got upgraded to a bushing. You can adjust it pretty easy on the 2nd gens with a pair of channel locks to loosen the lock nut then tightening the main cap a bit. A little goes a LONG way.
     
    Jazz1one[OP] likes this.
  6. May 25, 2021 at 1:50 PM
    #6
    Jazz1one

    Jazz1one [OP] It is what it is

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    SCS ray 10s. 315/75/16 Yokohama G003. Elka 2.5 dc w/remote resi. SPC uppers. Dobinson heavy leafs. Timbren bumps. Spindle gussets. Cab mount relocate. TRD catback. Toyota trifold tonneau. Full spare in bed. Hood deflector, side visors. Danger Customs Front/rear high clearance bumpers and full skids. 2 way remote start. Safari snorkel. Front 30% tint. Bed step. Anzo LED head lights. Weather tech mats. AllPro HD sliders linexed. 10k smitty x20 synthetic. Factor55 flatlink. Linexed bushwhackers. Rigid industries bumper pods. Ridged industries DSS ditch lights. Diode Dynamics amber pods. Prinsu roof rack. 42” Caliraised Amber single row. Switch Pros in sunglass holder. Custom Bed rail mounts for recovery gear.Northstar AGM battery. 4.88 nitro gears. Front and rear ARB lockers. ARB air compressor in bed cubby using expedition essentials mount.
    Anyone have a link to the zip tie hack?
     
  7. May 25, 2021 at 1:52 PM
    #7
    Yukon DoIt

    Yukon DoIt Opinionated Northerner

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  8. May 25, 2021 at 3:49 PM
    #8
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    I tried this on the old rack in my 2007 4runner and you're right, a little goes a long way! I tightened it too much and the wheel wouldn't even return to center lol. Loosened it up til it would return to center and left it. May have to do it again to the current rack in there as I'm getting a hefty clunk over washboard roads in the steering column somewhere. Got video once and it looks like the main shaft in the rack has a little bit of play.
     
  9. May 25, 2021 at 8:17 PM
    #9
    Jazz1one

    Jazz1one [OP] It is what it is

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    SCS ray 10s. 315/75/16 Yokohama G003. Elka 2.5 dc w/remote resi. SPC uppers. Dobinson heavy leafs. Timbren bumps. Spindle gussets. Cab mount relocate. TRD catback. Toyota trifold tonneau. Full spare in bed. Hood deflector, side visors. Danger Customs Front/rear high clearance bumpers and full skids. 2 way remote start. Safari snorkel. Front 30% tint. Bed step. Anzo LED head lights. Weather tech mats. AllPro HD sliders linexed. 10k smitty x20 synthetic. Factor55 flatlink. Linexed bushwhackers. Rigid industries bumper pods. Ridged industries DSS ditch lights. Diode Dynamics amber pods. Prinsu roof rack. 42” Caliraised Amber single row. Switch Pros in sunglass holder. Custom Bed rail mounts for recovery gear.Northstar AGM battery. 4.88 nitro gears. Front and rear ARB lockers. ARB air compressor in bed cubby using expedition essentials mount.
    53976529-0700-4396-AA7D-CFC4E55489C7.jpg

    Anyone know the torque specs on these plastic nuts?
     
  10. May 26, 2021 at 5:11 AM
    #10
    TenBeers

    TenBeers Well-Known Member

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    Yeah.
    LOL, pretty sure I just did them finger tight.
     
    4WDTrout likes this.
  11. Jun 2, 2021 at 10:20 AM
    #11
    Jazz1one

    Jazz1one [OP] It is what it is

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    SCS ray 10s. 315/75/16 Yokohama G003. Elka 2.5 dc w/remote resi. SPC uppers. Dobinson heavy leafs. Timbren bumps. Spindle gussets. Cab mount relocate. TRD catback. Toyota trifold tonneau. Full spare in bed. Hood deflector, side visors. Danger Customs Front/rear high clearance bumpers and full skids. 2 way remote start. Safari snorkel. Front 30% tint. Bed step. Anzo LED head lights. Weather tech mats. AllPro HD sliders linexed. 10k smitty x20 synthetic. Factor55 flatlink. Linexed bushwhackers. Rigid industries bumper pods. Ridged industries DSS ditch lights. Diode Dynamics amber pods. Prinsu roof rack. 42” Caliraised Amber single row. Switch Pros in sunglass holder. Custom Bed rail mounts for recovery gear.Northstar AGM battery. 4.88 nitro gears. Front and rear ARB lockers. ARB air compressor in bed cubby using expedition essentials mount.
    1BD4BCC6-814B-4F05-8E2E-C915DE9F6467.jpg

    Did the zip tie trick. Clunk is still there. Next step is to replace steering rack bushings with energy suspension.
    Upon further inspection the rack moves slightly while steering. Stock bushings have ~45k kms on them. 70% of which are Offroad abuse. :bikewhoops:

    I read the how-to bushing replacement threat on here. Not looking forward to it but will report back after job is done to update the clunk status.
     
  12. Jun 2, 2021 at 1:59 PM
    #12
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    BEFORE YOU DO THE RACK BUSHINGS. TRY ADJUSTING THE RACK SLIDER BUSHING! You can do it with nothing more than taking off the stock font skidplate.

    Seriously. Even brand new the stock rack bushings have quite a bit of deflection (i went and looked at a brand new 3rd gen recently as i was having the same issue as you). I pulled the slider rack bushing out (used a pair of channel locks to undo the lock ring) and a piece of flat stock as a "tool" to loosen the big cap which houses a spring and the slider bushing. Pull it out, clean it up, put some super lube PTFE grease on the slider itself, put it back in, tighten up the big cap. During tightening you will get to a point where you compress the spring and are touching the bushing, at that point adjustments are going to be very touchy. Go say 1/8th of a turn past where the cap starts touching the bushing. Leave the lock ring off, go for a drive around the block. See if the steering wheel wants to come anywhere close to center. If it doesnt, undo it a smidge, go for another drive. If it still wants to center quickly tighten it more till it doesnt want to center then back off just a hair.

    I have found that the best feel was a wheel that ALMOST wants to return all the way to center, it gets say 20* to center on its own.
     
    Jazz1one[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  13. Jun 2, 2021 at 2:09 PM
    #13
    Jazz1one

    Jazz1one [OP] It is what it is

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    SCS ray 10s. 315/75/16 Yokohama G003. Elka 2.5 dc w/remote resi. SPC uppers. Dobinson heavy leafs. Timbren bumps. Spindle gussets. Cab mount relocate. TRD catback. Toyota trifold tonneau. Full spare in bed. Hood deflector, side visors. Danger Customs Front/rear high clearance bumpers and full skids. 2 way remote start. Safari snorkel. Front 30% tint. Bed step. Anzo LED head lights. Weather tech mats. AllPro HD sliders linexed. 10k smitty x20 synthetic. Factor55 flatlink. Linexed bushwhackers. Rigid industries bumper pods. Ridged industries DSS ditch lights. Diode Dynamics amber pods. Prinsu roof rack. 42” Caliraised Amber single row. Switch Pros in sunglass holder. Custom Bed rail mounts for recovery gear.Northstar AGM battery. 4.88 nitro gears. Front and rear ARB lockers. ARB air compressor in bed cubby using expedition essentials mount.
    So this fixed the clunk? Got any pics of the slider bushing/cap? I never worked on a steering rack before
     
  14. Jun 2, 2021 at 2:27 PM
    #14
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    Yup fixed my clunk

    Have a look below. Thin lock ring with 4 flat sides. The "cap" is the circle threaded piece with the 4 notches, this pushes down on the spring and slider bushing.

    upload_2021-6-2_14-26-33.jpg
     
  15. Jun 2, 2021 at 2:43 PM
    #15
    Jazz1one

    Jazz1one [OP] It is what it is

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    Ah thanks. Mine has sunken hex bolt instead. They must have changed them after 2013. Anyone know what size tool fits in there?
    E713F14C-E5A6-4544-9415-CEEB620CDCD4.jpg

    (Not my photo)
     
  16. Jun 2, 2021 at 3:02 PM
    #16
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    You sure its a sunken in hex? Is the rack a factory rack? For big hexs like that you can get a bolt with a head that is that size and tighten a nut to that bolt so you have an external hex to loosen / tighten it. (tbh i wish my rack was a hex like that it would make life easier).


    Id also be curious when you do pull the slider itself out (you might need a magnet) if you could get a pic the slider and its bushing surface that would be awesome.
     
  17. Jun 2, 2021 at 3:04 PM
    #17
    Jazz1one

    Jazz1one [OP] It is what it is

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    Factory rack. I’ll post pics and my results here. Thanks
     
    nd4spdbh[QUOTED] likes this.
  18. Jun 2, 2021 at 3:08 PM
    #18
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    That would be awesome man! If its not too much of a hassle pics of the cap / slider bushing and the spring too (with a measurement of the length of the spring) would be EPIC. (trying to determine if they made slight improvements to that assembly in the 2015 year)
     
  19. Jun 2, 2021 at 6:42 PM
    #19
    Jazz1one

    Jazz1one [OP] It is what it is

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    @nd4spdbh any idea how to get the channel-lock pliers to go on that thing?? the bushing screw head and ps fluid hose are in the way. Do I have to unbolt some things and move them Outta the way?
     
  20. Jun 2, 2021 at 7:54 PM
    #20
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    I turned my wheel hard left, and with the stock front skid off there was room above the front of the LCA to get them in there. Gotta have a bigger pair of chanel locks that open quite a ways so the handles aren't too far apart.
     

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