Clutch fluid change left my clutch pedal stuck on the floor...

Good afternoon, gents.
I noticed that the clutch fluid reservoir was low and the fluid wasnt looking very healthy in my 2013 v6 (125,xxx miles) and decided that today would be a good day to change the fluid. Followed this video and was under the impression this would be hard to mess up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ZZmVji6CXI&t=755s

Suctioned the reservoir with a turkey baster and got it cleaned out, filled it back up with new fluid. Squeezed the hose going to the master and got afew air bubbles out before the old dirty fluid started to ooz back into the reservoir. Went under the truck intending to gravity bleed the slave cylinder. In the video, Peter opens the bleed valve and the fluid starts dripping right out. When I cracked the valve (nipple off, of course), nothing happened.
I dont have a vacuum or any cool stuff like that, so figured I could pressurize the system by working the clutch pedal. Open bleed valve, clutch in, close valve, clutch out. Thing is, im not the sharpest crayon in the shed. Instead, I went clutch in (held the pedal in place by placing a pipe between the driver seat and the clutch pedal), opened the valve, shot dot 3 down my driveway, closed the valve, and my clutch pedal has been stuck to the floor since . I can pump it back and forth enough to build a little bit of pressure in the hydraulics. Enough to get 2-3 inches of back and forth movement. Even enough to get the rest of the old dirty fluid out of the lines ! But here I am, fresh clutch fluid mission accomplished, with my clutch pedal on the floor.

Is my clutch master bad (or slave etc)? I was hoping this would help extend the life of these components. Perhaps one of them had already gone, explaining the fluid being low?

For the record, might as well consider me an amateur as far as turning a wrench goes. Fixing and maintaining my truck and learning along the way.

Hope this makes sense. My mother-in-law is sitting across the table distracting me as much as she can. Help me fix my taco so I can go home please

Edit: Oh and no signs of any external leakage on any of the hydraulics as far as I can tell.

 

Jack up the back of your truck and let the slave very slowly drip overnight .
That should address any air in your system .

Tighten the bleeder at the slave in the morning , pump the clutch , add approved fluid , then road test
Jacking up the rear of the truck allows the master cylinder time to equalize plus it makes things easier to gravity bleed .
Ask me why I know this ?

 

When I bled mine, I recall having similar issues, the pedal wouldn't come back up. I used the 2 person bleeding. Me under ready to open the bleeder, friend pushing and pulling the pedal. Pump pedal, hold it down, open bleeder until it stopped flowing, tighten bleeder, pedal didn't come back up. By hand pump the pedal, hold it down, open bleeder until it stopped flowing, close bleeder. Every 5 times or so refill reservoir, repeat until it came out clear. I don't remember if I had to start the engine or not. But after, pedal feel came back. I stuck a little hose on the bleeder nipple over a drain pan but still got it all over down my elbow, in my arm pit, in my hair.

 

The clutch pedal relies mostly on the pressure plate for a return force. So if there is air in the slave cylinder or master cylinder you will have this issue.

 

DOT4 is flushed by pressurizing the system to 20psi at a constant pressure with the correct adapter on the reservoir

 

Thanks everyone. So far, sounds like there's air in the system. I will update tomorrow.
Side note, the idea of jacking rear end up to get any air out of the bleed valve is very interesting. My floor jack is across town but I am curious to see how high the rear end would have to be to bleed the air out

 

You're on the right track here, if the fluid was really low before the (attempted) flush then look for a leak. Check the master cyl really good under the dash

 

Yup, this is why I had to bleed mine, found carpet saturated with brake fluid, replaced master cylinder, up there with the most difficult task ever.

 

Got everything sorted today. Jacked the rear end of the truck up overnight with the bleeder opened, hoping that the gravity bleed would fix the issue. The clutch master cylinder was definitely not leaking externally, so I was banking on my issue being air in the lines somewhere.

Issue was the master itself. In hindsight, the way that it felt and sounded upon inspection while trying to diagnose the issue and bleed the system, it should have been obvious (certainly will next time, anyway).
This thing was on borrowed time, as it turns out. The dirty fluid was the only thing keeping it sealed. Flushing the system and putting fresh fluid in killed what was left of it on the first push of the clutch.

This is the good part...
You know how in movies, there's a common motif of a respected figure of authority giving the protagonist some sort of mysterious and powerful object that the protagonist doesnt understand the value of yet? But they are told that the day will come where they will know what the power is for and it ultimately saves the day?
I used to work for a guy that drove the same truck, same year, with a stick shift. One day, he very randomly handed me something that I had never seen before, and told me that I would need it some day. He told me what it was, but I had never heard of it either. Didnt think much of it at the time.
Well, I got lucky here (for once, about damn time )
Dug through my closet and found the brand new aisin master that he gave me on a whim that day. He had apparently gone through afew himself, and had an extra one that he ordered in the heap of stuff he had rolling around in the back of his cab that day.

Putting it in was kind of a pain in the ass, but very strait forward and hard to mess up. Only suggestion for anyone about to replace theirs that I can think of right now: while trying to get the new master hooked up to the hose that comes through the firewall from the reservoir, I tried to disconnect the hose from the firewall first. I would not recommend this. After wrestling with the hose to try to get it attached to the nipple on the new master, it seemed logical to simply remove the hose from the firewall first to get enough play in the hose to easily attach it, then reconnect to the reservoir through the firewall. Trouble is, after loosening the clamp, the hose still didnt want to come off (without using an excessive force that could have easily resulted in me ripping the hose apart). I abanded that plan and it only took another couple minutes of wrestling with the hose to get it on correctly. Then I refocused my attention on getting the clamp that I losened on the hoses firewall connection back to where it was before trying to take that hose off and the real trouble started. I spent more time trying to get that clamp (that you dont even need removed) back into position than on any other part of this repair. Very little room to work. You have been warned.

 

I know this is an old post but it just happened to me. Call me a noob or an idiot but I thought I would save someone some serious trouble. I read all the comments about getting a bad unit out of the box, so I returned two of them and bought a pump. The problem was much more simple but maybe not obvious to an inexperienced person.

The brake master cylinder has a divider. The front section holds fluid for the clutch master cylinder. When you remove the cylinder it will drain completely, but again if you are not familiar with this it will still appear to be full since the brake half is still full. Put more brake fluid in until the front side fills up. Then keep refilling until you are done bleeding.

Also note that the cylinder instructions state to not fully adjust the rod out because it may move too far and block the inlet. Therefore you will not get any fluid into the cylinder.

Hope this helps someone as oblivious as I was.