Clutch or Hydaulics?

2003 Tacoma 260K. Just purchased one month ago. Reliable source, good guy.
The clutch pedal has (for my time with truck) always needed to be pushed to the floor to work. (slight problems, I have big feet and often catch the raised foot rest and I at times grinded into 3rd)
I was driving, slowed down at intersection, and couldn't get into gear at all. Coasted far enough to get off the road. I could not shift into gear if the truck was running. After an hour looking, fussing and searching the net (TG for smart phones and service) I ended up starting the truck in gear, it lurched forward and drove away. I was able to shift without the clutch. Fortunately, I only had a few stop lights, where I had to turn it off and start again in gear. Mostly expressway drive home.
I have replaced both master and slave (long story here). I bled as I have read here. But I still have the same issue.
How can I determine if I:
a) need to better job of bleeding
b) got crap parts from Auto Zone
c) need to be getting into the trans (and starting a new thread or two)
d) stick with my Suzuki Sidekick and pass this truck onto my 18 year old son who feel in love with the awesome stereo that came with it (he is on his way to college next week and it would sit in my drive until next spring)
e) start walking more

 

Maybe check the adjustment of the push rod from the master cylinder to the pedal. I had a similar problem on my old 91 pickup and it turned out the push rod just needed lengthened a bit to fully disengage the clutch.

 

On my old truck the problem was a slow leak down. If I held the clutch to the floor for a while with the trans in first, eventually the truck would begin to creep forward. I replaced all the hydraulics and it was fine for a while. Then it began behaving like your situation. After looking around a bit I noticed the jam nut that locks the push rod length on the master had come loose and the push rod must have rotated and shortened enough that it would not disengage the clutch. I gave the rod a few turns to lengthen it, made sure I still had about .5" of "free play" and tightened the jam nut. That solved my problem.

 

if it's possible to watch the slave push the fork while someone works the pedal, you'll get a hint if it's the hydraulics.

I don't know what the stroke on a Tacoma should be, but if you open the old slave and look at the piston/plunger you should get a pretty good idea.

Your description is more likely hydraulic in nature. Usually a worn clutch first shows itself when running in a higher gear, accelerating, and watching the RPM go up while the MPH stays the same.

 

Thanks for your replies. I know this thread has been repeated and I have read through most of the others, but they don't seem to address the problem I am having.

Weldo: thought of that, I have it out as far as I can, only screwed on a few threads
Clearwater: I can see the slave push the thing that comes out of the trans back when clutch pedal is pushed in, it just doesn't seem to do anything

 

Are there any weird squeaks or squeals? If the slave cylinder is pushing the clutch fork but nothing is happening I suppose it could be a pressure plate issue. If it were a throw out bearing it would probably be making noise.

How does the pedal feel? Does it offer any resistance at all our does it feel limp?

 

Thanks weldo. There is not and never has been any odd noises. There does not seem to be any resistance as I push the clutch down. Limp is a good word to describe the feeling now

 

It does indeed sound hydraulic in nature. If the pressure plate is effed up enough to not offer any resistance it would be making some kind of noise. You might have heard a bang or clunk as the springs blew out of the plate then rattled around in the bellhousing. Or a squealing or whining from a bad throw out bearing.

Any info from the previous owner on the state of the clutch? If the truck has 260k miles I'm guessing it was replaced once already. If not it may be time.

Try carefully bleeding again.

 

Update: as I was bleeding the cylinders, I noticed the clutch release fork (?) was loose. I wiggled it a little and it was broke off. So I am guessing, the fork was cracked and bending when I depressed the clutch and not doing its job.
Now the question is: Do I (or someone more capable) need to pull the whole transmission to replace this $50 part?
If I do need to pull the trans, what else should I have/do in there while it is out. 275K miles, no issues until this.