Clutch pedal has no pressure

04, 6 cyl 3.5. After a year or so of a soft clutch pedal and it not returning all the way it finally stuck to the floor. I have replaced the slave and the master. I have bleed the system and still same results. I am going to bleed again(ran out of daylight and patience) Will pedal get pressure and return once I bleed it or is this a sign of something bigger? I can not get out of gear into neutral as well. Sure this is because of bleeding but just wanted to let you know. No issues with shifting prior just soft pedal...

Also have coil spring on clutch pedal, not the other spring like on brake and gas.

 

I had the same thing happen to me. Ended up having to haev the slave replaced three times under warranty. Lucky never got charged. So far no issue this time around.

 

Does the clutch fork move at all, when you step on the clutch pedal?
Any brake fluid leaks?

 

I've gotten bad slaves and masters out of the box.

 

I have nothing moving, pedal is either up or down. Got a bled kit and going to be patient. Think I just need to bled longer... I will check brakes. They have been chattering( like warped rotors)...

Both reservoirs are full... And we're prior to changing the MC and SC.

 

Sounds like air still in there. Mighty vac or pressure bleed.

 

you say you bled the system.. you didn't say you bled the master cylinder... im assuming you didn't bleed the master cylinder cause its usually a real pain in the ass to do that and most people would have complained about doing so in a post.

 

Did you bench-bleed the MC before installing?
Describe your bleeding technique.

 

I did not bench bleed, rookie move. Anyways after about an hour of press loosen bleed tighten pull, I have it rocking again. Still just a tad bit of play but adjusted the length on the MC to the petal and pretty damn close to perfect. Gotta get to work now so deal with it next weekend if it gets worse...

Thanks for all your help

 

So anyway to bleed MC once it is installed? I am sure this is where the bit of play is coming from now that I have watched the video that was posted.

 

you "can" bleed the MC once it's been installed, pressing the pistons with the clutch pedal would make it a lot easier. the biggest problem is that you cannot watch the tubes for bubbles and make sure they are out of the system, and you cant really make sure the tubes don't fall out of the reservoir or pull out above the fluid.

 

I did push the pedal a few times in with the supply line detached, I had rag under it to catch the brake fluid. Did this and made sure reservoir didn't go dry. Hoping this worked.

Basically my son is finally old enough to have focus on task likes this, and it will be his truck in a few years, so I am learning as I teach.

on to rotors and pads next.

 

Bench bleeding the master is a pain without a good vise.
I will install the master and slave , fill master , open the bleeder , and let it gravity drain for as long as it takes to get fluid to start draining from the bleeder screw.
Sometimes I have to close the bleeder screw, pump the pedal SLOWLY , 10 or so pumps, use a stick of some sort to hold the pedal to the floor , before it will gravity bleed.
This is if I am by myself, which is most of the time.
If I have a helper to hold the pedal down , pump slowly 10 or so pumps, hold pedal down, and crack open the line into your slave , watch for air bubbles to expell.
Tighten the line and proceed to bleed the system with the bleeder screw.

The importance of pumping slowly, so as to not ariate the fluid.
Many people pump as fast as they can , and that just works up the air in the fluid.
On Ford's they have a quick disconnect line from the master to the slave , and it is a flex line.
Those I assemble everything , keeping the master higher then slave bench bleed until you have no air, separate with the quick disconnect , install into vehicle.
Unfortunately our tacoma do not have a flexible line, and not enough room to install assembled.

 

Thanks, that gives me confidence,.I am not a "mechanic" but I have common sense, it made sense that doing that way would do the trick.

The slave is pain in the ... I am not a small guy, had to Remove the mud guard and come in from the wheel well, through the hydraulic lines. To get the mounting bolts in.

 

I should have mentioned, I always do the same , but I am 150 and 5'11". Turn the wheels to the right and I can wiggle in.

 

Exactly...

 

Thanks everybody!!!! She is back up and rolling!

 

What did u end up doing to actually get pressure back in ur lines? im dealing with the same now. At 1st i was having a hard time getting into gears sometimes, so i tried to bleed the slave and lost all pressure in general. Ive been pumping aggressive and fast, i take it thats not good to agitate the fluid and cause more air in it. trucks gonna sit until tomorrow after work and then i have to play with it