Clutch Pedal Spring Bushing - Add On

Sorry for the lack of pictures while the assembly was on the bench.

This isn't a 'how to' for the DIY hack for clutch return spring since there are many out there already. While that method can work in some or many instances, the OEM spring is actually well designed and in particular, it works like a cam lobe as a two-part action. When you first press the clutch pedal, that initial resistance is what brings the pedal back to it's resting position. The 2nd half of the pedal's movement (the midway point to the floor) is actually working as a clutch pedal 'assist' to press it the rest of the way. So the OEM spring is not a bad thing to have.

This is actually the 2nd bronze sleeve/bushing I've made that fits in that fork in the pedal. I think I got around 3-5 years out of the first one and then all of sudden the other day, I get this terrible squeak and more resistance to press the pedal. The bronze bushing was no were to be found and no particles either. May have cracked and fallen behind the carpet in the foot-well though.

First, if you're still wondering about a moderately safe way to remove the spring, I clamped mine to the workbench using a c-clamp over that single mounting hole (picture is from a Yota Shop thread). Also, use some shims at the back to level the assembly and keep it more stable.

I used a pair of channel locks to pull one side of the spring out which wasn't bad and not any kind of unexpected BOING spring flying out. However, I found getting those spring ends back in took so much force that I literally moved the workbench. Instead, remove the bolt that holds the pedal to the large assembly, insert to two end parts of the spring first, then get the single spring/bushing into the forked part of the pedal and re-insert that large bolt that holds the pedal to the assembly. It was WAY easier.



The Hillman part numbers: two for the outer spring ends (H 882991) which have the flanges on the ends. Then H 882744 is the long bronze sleeve for the forked part of the clutch pedal, only one needed but I'm glad I bought two. You can actually get two per sleeve though if you cut them to 7/16" wide which then fits into the square part of the spring. Each package ran just shy of $5 bucks at the local Lowes.


For the two bushings on the side of the spring that have the flange, you make a little setup with a 1/4" bolt, nut and washers to use in a drill or press and then a file to turn them down just a little. They fit pretty nice and snug this way.




After I got the diameter filed down to where it fits snug into the assembly, I used a hacksaw to cut it at the length I wanted - you can see the groove started below.




End bushing installed. Fork was already showing some wear.



Once you're ready to reinstall it, if you remove the large bolt that holds the pedal to the assembly, it will help to get the spring back in correctly and without issue. There are also two nylon bushings that can wear out that this bolt pivots on. It may be worth checking those two. I've not seen anyone mention those before.



Insert the ends of the spring first, the fit the center part of the spring into the "yet to be installed" pedal fork. You have to push some on the pedal to get the bolt holes to line up but you're not compressing the spring nearly as much as trying to those outer ends last.




Lastly, I didn't get a good image of the bronze bushing that you file two notches in to make it fit into the pedal fork (image below from Tacomaki's post in TW), but the first one broke while I was trying to reinstall the spring (prior to removing the pedal bolt method). My sense is however, that the first bronze bushing, only lasted less or about the same as the OEM plastic bushings (the newer version for the fork bushing is black which looks like graphite - the original white nylon bushing was recalled I believe). I went by my dealership and picked up all three after this job, the two outer ones (white) and that black/grey center one, all for $15. Each of those is the exact same price as the Hillman parts at Lowes. So unless there is a great reason to spend a couple of hours manufacturing your own bronze bushings/sleeves, the OEM one is pretty easy fix an probably lasts about the same amount of time with the same cost.

 

Just How much total time do you have in this Job?
How much do you Charge per Hour ?
So I know a price to compare with just replacing it with a linear spring?

 

So getting the entire pedal assembly out took over an hour and mostly that was trying to reach the bolts on the firewall side below the clutch master cylinder.

I also preferred to remove the lower dash cover and the A/C duct to that driver's side vent - it's not essential but sure made it easier to reach stuff.

Had to go to the Lowes, then DIY the bronze fittings - probably a couple of hours there, then reinstall, maybe another hour (prefer not to underestimate the time).

I'd say 4-5 hours to do the bronze method, probably 2 hours if you had the factory bushing.

For the linear spring method, depending on if you can get the spring out without removing the pedal assembly, then the linear spring job seems like it could be done in 60-90 minutes.

Some people have mentioned that the linear spring does feel stiffer which is probably why Toyota when with this dual function spring. But if that's not an issue, it may be the way to go.

 

It took me about an hour to swap in the linear spring .
Removing the Left Door and Seat then the Lower panel made an easy job.
The nylon bushing were so worn the spring for the most fell out.