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Clutch Pedal Squeak - New Bushing Design

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Tacomaki, Feb 21, 2010.

  1. Feb 21, 2010 at 4:08 PM
    #1
    Tacomaki

    Tacomaki [OP] Member

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    I'm posting this forum to increase the tribal knowledge.

    It's well documented that the first generation metal pedal clutches squeak at one time or another. A TSB was issued that states to replace the Clutch Pedal Spring Bushing (Toyota P/N 90389-05017 - $1.75). The instructions on line can be fiound at:
    http://www.lieblweb.com/clutchbushing.html

    But you'll be replacing this plastic bushing over and over (like me - twice in 75,000 miles) when you find it on the floor mat cut in half. This happens even more frequently if you use grease or oil on the bushing which softens the plastic. I found that others have had the same experience and posted it on-line. I also saw some practical engineering from folks using drum brake springs from Tractor Supply Company. Interesting, but I thought this was a little pricy and somewhat unpractical for those less mechanically inclined.

    So, I thought about this for a while and came up with an idea I'm trying. The Toyota bushing needs to be made of more durable material and it should allow the use of a good grease to allow the repair to last. I thought then that a bearing would be more appropriate than a plastic bushing.

    I fashioned a 1/2 inch long bearing out of a bronze bearing sleeve I bought at Lowe's (Speciality Hardware (1/4" x 3/8" x 1" - $2.45+tax and you get 2 bearings from this). I cut it to 1/2 inch long, and cut a slot along the back of the bearing with a hacksaw to allow placing over the spring. I then slotted the outside of bearing with a bastard file to allow it to slide in the 'U' shape of the pedal and to keep it from rotating.

    Then I installed it following the same instructions (link above) with a good coating of Moly Grease. It is as easy to install as the Toyota plastic bushing. For a clear picture, the photo below shows the bearing installed without the grease. Note, you can't bend bronze without cracking it so don't try to bend it around the spring. So far, no squeaking. Posting some photos of the installation and the bearing. I hope this helps.

    3/13/10
    One afterthought, if I was to do it again, while I had the clutch dissassembled, I'd also get some small bronze bearings for the spring ends to the frame (on the ends). It would seem the plastic ones will eventually wear out too.

    Bronze Bearing.jpg
    Bronze Bearing 2.jpg
    Bearing Installed.jpg
     
    SecureIT2021 likes this.
  2. Feb 21, 2010 at 9:48 PM
    #2
    scocar

    scocar hypotenoper

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    :popcorn:

    Nice job. Expect updates regularly to resolve this lame-ass issue... I hope you achieve what a multibillion-dollar corporation could not, or would not.
     
    Jimmyrace likes this.
  3. Feb 22, 2010 at 7:12 AM
    #3
    BRP27

    BRP27 When I grow up I want to be just like Me

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    So far south in Texas my feet are in salt water
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    3 in Ultimate ToyTec, set @ 2.5 in. AAL PINCH Weld Mod ( beat the pinch weld over inside the fender) Painted the pinch weld on bottom of cab Black Hi Lift Knock off
    Great post, good idea, rep for you
     
  4. Feb 22, 2010 at 7:46 AM
    #4
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    Nice fix!!
    I could've used that back when I owned my 96. :D

    I'd keep an eye on it and give us feedback as you go.

    In looking at the pictures, my concerns would be that the brass bushing might rotate around leaving the open area on the opposite side.

    I know some of the 2nd gen trucks clutch pedals squeek....I don't even know if the mechanism is the same or not on the 2nd gens?
     
  5. Feb 22, 2010 at 2:49 PM
    #5
    BRP27

    BRP27 When I grow up I want to be just like Me

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    So far south in Texas my feet are in salt water
    Vehicle:
    04 4X4 Tacoma SR5
    3 in Ultimate ToyTec, set @ 2.5 in. AAL PINCH Weld Mod ( beat the pinch weld over inside the fender) Painted the pinch weld on bottom of cab Black Hi Lift Knock off
    The plastic bearing snaps or snug fits into the U bracket. The first picture shows that the bushing is filed flat on two sides that go into the U bracket trapping the bushing so it can't rotate IMO.

    I already have a plastic bushing out on my desk and will be looking for a bushing to fabricate myself one.

    The plastic bearing is a poor design.
     
  6. Feb 27, 2010 at 6:10 PM
    #6
    Tacomaki

    Tacomaki [OP] Member

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    Quick update, it seems to be smoothing out even more. Guessing the bearing material is getting a polish by the spring as the clutch is used.

    Note, the bushing does not rotate. With the slots cut into the outer surface, the spring rotates within the inner diameter surface. The outer diameter does not rotate.
     
  7. Feb 27, 2010 at 6:16 PM
    #7
    Tacomaki

    Tacomaki [OP] Member

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    Also, I think the second generation clutches are plastic and have a different spring design. A totally different design.
     
  8. Mar 1, 2010 at 5:19 AM
    #8
    BRP27

    BRP27 When I grow up I want to be just like Me

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    So far south in Texas my feet are in salt water
    Vehicle:
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    3 in Ultimate ToyTec, set @ 2.5 in. AAL PINCH Weld Mod ( beat the pinch weld over inside the fender) Painted the pinch weld on bottom of cab Black Hi Lift Knock off
    Another advantage this fix has is the bushing is made from bronze and has a wider bearing surface since the bushing is a little wider. That should make it wear better.
     
  9. Mar 1, 2010 at 7:02 AM
    #9
    Space Wrangler

    Space Wrangler Well-Known Member

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    just remove that pos oe spring and replaced it with a linear spring from a parts store. ...you'll never have to worry about those bushings again ..and it take all of 5 min. to install.
     
    homegrown_xt and Jimmyrace like this.
  10. Mar 12, 2010 at 12:03 PM
    #10
    scocar

    scocar hypotenoper

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    So, hey man, time for another update...only my clutch fork was squeaking, but now the pedal bushing is too. Found bits on the floor. Driving me nuts, and I can feel it, too...so I am about to got to Lowe's...

    Any problems yet? Still intact?
     
    GQ7227 likes this.
  11. Mar 12, 2010 at 4:32 PM
    #11
    BRP27

    BRP27 When I grow up I want to be just like Me

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    So far south in Texas my feet are in salt water
    Vehicle:
    04 4X4 Tacoma SR5
    3 in Ultimate ToyTec, set @ 2.5 in. AAL PINCH Weld Mod ( beat the pinch weld over inside the fender) Painted the pinch weld on bottom of cab Black Hi Lift Knock off
    I thought about adding a spring as you suggest I didnt see a way to hook a spring to the pedal and fire wall without alot of work. Have you done this fix? Got Pics?
     
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  12. Mar 12, 2010 at 4:44 PM
    #12
    scocar

    scocar hypotenoper

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    Check out this write-up of this on Yotatech.

    http://www.yotatech.com/f2/fixed-stupid-plastic-clutch-pedal-bushing-19137/

    I'd rather solve the bushing issue, personally, but it seems folks are pretty happy with the spring option.
     
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  13. Mar 13, 2010 at 6:08 AM
    #13
    Tacomaki

    Tacomaki [OP] Member

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    UPDATE: 5,000 miles and doing fine. No bronze dust indicating wear. Grease still in tact. Getting warmer here so we'll see if the sunshine on the dash will cause the grease to not be as effective.

    TO SCOCAR: The bronze bearing was the answer for me. The cause of the noise is the rubbing of the spring coil on a narrow piece of metal. It will make a noise sooner or later. The bronze bearing solved the problem of the hard spring steel rubbing on the narrow clutch support fork by allowing it to be greased, and by increasing the surface so the spring force was distributed over a larger surface.

    I am not sure that rigging the linear spring between the clutch clevis pin and any body or instrument panel reinforcement hole is always available considering the wiring in the area. It wasn't the option for me. To me it seems like a lot of unnecessary engineering. Just make the bushing stronger by using a bronze bearing.

    One afterthought, if I was to do it again, while I had the clutch dissassembled, I'd also get some small bronze bearings for the spring ends to the frame (on the ends). It would seem the plastic ones will eventually wear out too.
     
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  14. Mar 13, 2010 at 9:04 AM
    #14
    scocar

    scocar hypotenoper

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    Thanks for the update. I am all about your solution rather than the spring option, and I understand the problem, it's pretty basic. I am all about fixing something once. I was just informing the other poster about that writeup.

    Great news on the results so far, and yes, it would make sense to replace the plastic spring-end bushings with bronze, too.

    The clutch release fork squeak I mentioned is a different squeak on a pivot point inside the bell housing under the truck, which I discovered after sticking my head down under the dash while operating the clutch pedal. I was surprised the noise was not coming from the spring bushing that you fix here. It was clearly coming from underneath the truck, and then I found a writeup describing that the pivot point dries out and the only way you can grease it is with the bell housing removed (see FSM page CL-15 for reference). Arg. I looked through the little rubber boot to see if I could fake it...no way. So that will have to wait until a clutch replacement is due.

    So, I got two-squeak syndrome, I guess. The pedal bushing squeak was intermittent for a while, I guess as it ate itself and rotated, etc. before falling on the mat. But you, my friend, have paved the way to single-squeakdom. Rep to you. :thumbsup: When I get the gumption to do this, I will try your recommended bronze on both spring ends, too.
     

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  15. Jun 13, 2010 at 10:18 AM
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    Yamasaki

    Yamasaki Yamaha + Kawasaki!

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    Following the tips and links on here I did my clutch pedal this weekend. Took me about 1 hour total. Not half bad.

    The hardest part was getting the spring re-seated after putting the new bushing in and also not loosing the lower nut on the clutch master cylinder. I dropped that damn thing three times trying to put it back on and had to fish it out from between brake lines behind the suspension.

    But other than that a good and easy experience overall.

    edit: Forgot to add, my dealers price on the bushing was $4.75.....
     
    Jimmyrace likes this.
  16. Jun 13, 2010 at 8:34 PM
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    RattleTractor

    RattleTractor Lube: It's the key to penetration.

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    Subscribed. That way I can fix mine soon!
     
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  17. Jun 14, 2010 at 6:45 AM
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    96er

    96er Sport Rally'er

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    2nd gen clutch assembly is a disgrace. It's all plastic, and mine had to be replaced at 9k miles.
     
  18. Aug 26, 2010 at 11:48 AM
    #18
    davestaco

    davestaco TW's number one gear whore

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    STICKY!!!! nice job op on the fix
     
  19. Aug 26, 2010 at 12:05 PM
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    scocar

    scocar hypotenoper

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    So did you reinstall the OEM Toyota plastic bushings, or did you go for Tacomaki's bronze bushing mod?
     
  20. Sep 14, 2010 at 7:03 PM
    #20
    Tacomaki

    Tacomaki [OP] Member

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    10,000 miles later (2 oil changes)

    No squeak all summer, no signs of bronze wear/flakes.

    So far.....so good!
     

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