Clutch slipping first thing in the morning

Depending on how busy the road is. You can try shifting at 2500 and when you get back on the throttle. Don't floor it, give it gentle pressure for about 100-200rpms and then increase pedal pressure to accelerate quicker. That's what I do. I merge onto the freeway with this method, albeit I start work early in the morning 3-4am so not so much traffic.

 

I'll try to see what I do and if it's different I'll give your suggestion a try. It hasn't been too bad recently, but it's freaking frustrating when it acts up.

 

Not entirely true. Warmup procedures are not specific but BITOG discussion suggest 2500rpm Max is reasonable for gentle warmup of engine. I went and asked a representative of Redline Synthtic Oil Co. And this is what he had to say.

(Name deleted),


Thank you for contacting Redline Oil, the ZDDP requires temperature to activate but there isn't any specific warmup procedures necessary for operation

Regards,


Dave Gronquist


A quick Google search brings up ZDDP activation range between 60-120°C

 

ZDDP was removed from motor oil decades ago.

 

Well... ya bastards just had to bring up this topic, didn't ya?

Mine did this for the first time the other day. I'm at around 10K miles.
Freaked me out because it did it as I was leaving a neighborhood and pulling onto a very busy street. I've never had a clutch act like that unless something was wrong, but it did go away. The weather is supposed to turn much colder and drier here soon, so we'll see if it does it again, or if it was moisture.

It better not be looking like this:

 

Nope.
https://www.redlineoil.com/red-line-gives-corvette-owners-tips-on-valvetrain-care

 

so regardless of motor oil additive chemistry, our clutches are slipping 1-single-time during our first shift in the morning, typically on damp / humid days.....that's the problem we're trying to work out.

It'll be interesting to see how the accumulator delete mod affects this.....not gonna be doing mine until my 125k warranty is up, just in case. If not, might be a "nature of the beast" thing where moisture is building internally on the clutch and it's just something we'll have to deal with.

 

AFAIK, it is just @RedBeard1 and I on the accumulator delete and unfortunately (thankfully?), I haven't experienced this issue.

Supposedly, the 2.7l MTs don't have an accumulator. I'm not sure if their clutches are similar, but that might be a good group to include?

 

I just want to be sure. You are saying the clutch slips when you have already engaged it completely in 1st gear?

 

that's how mine is.....fully engaged, then just once, slips like i'm a noob stalling it. Then totally fine the rest of the day.

 

I could see both sides of the coin where the accumulator might or might not be causing it? Rick has said that he is pretty busy with other projects, so it will probably be a little while until he gets to the swap-in fitting. But with it being a direct fit, waiting for 125k might not be necessary at least as a test for this problem?

 

yeah I might just pull the trigger on it haha. Worst case if i need some sort of warranty clutch work I could swap the accumulator back in?

 

Yes. It will be the same size as the accumulator and have one matching hole for mounting. Swapping the part back in will be no big deal other than asking someone to assist in bleeding the line. Although, it is not something that you would want to be doing on the side of the road.

 

Haha no no that’ll be a garage day

 

Well I'm not sure I can say slipping. Chalk that up to a lack of knowledge. What I can say is, if I don't get it just right it bucks. If I didn't know any better I would say I need to get more RPMs, but when I do that it feels like I deployed a chute behind me for a moment. The issue is, I can't get it do it when I try, so I can't figure out what it is. I have been chalking it up to the truck being mad at me and trying to show me who is boss, I respond with more throttle.

 

good choice of words, this nails it

 

If you are still on the clutch when this happens, I would say try the ECU TSB first (TSB-0058-18 or TSB-0125-18) and then the accumulator delete. The TSB was a big improvement for me and getting rid of the accumulator was the icing on the cake.

My diagnosis is that if you were able to smoothly downshift into 1st while moving in other vehicles but not the Taco, then the accumulator is the main issue.

 

"API certified" oil is the only kind Toyota recommends. That stuff you're linking to is race oil, for cars without catalytic converters.

 

yeah I want to give that TSB a go too....but I don't think that's it, because it's not the engine bucking it's the clutch bucking. The engine just kind of rides on

Whatever it is, it's weird.

 

My '08 clutch does the same slipping in the mornings if I don't let it warm up completely. Winter is diffidently worse. I just let the truck warm up for a while.

Not trying thread jack:

I'm thinking about buying a 3rd gen 6MT. Have any of you owned a 2nd gen 6MT, then moved into the 3rd gen? How do they compare? Are you guys happy with the 3rd gen performance?

Thank you all for your input in advance