Clutch Start Cancel Doesn't Work In Cold Weather

I'm already pretty sure my switch is bad, I was just curious if anyone else has had this issue.
I like to hit my clutch start cancel sometimes to start my truck without getting in but whenever the temp is around 50F or less it refuses to work (works every time otherwise), sometimes if I click the hell out of it it comes on.
It's just crazy that the only time it doesn't work is when it's cold out.

 

Mine doesn’t have the button, just the pedal switch, which started giving me problems. So I took out the relay and stuck in a bypass wire. Since I don’t believe in leaving it in gear, and smart enough to know to check it if someone else drives it I have no issues. I always hated having to stomp the clutch to start it anyhow.

If yours doesn’t work when cold and you prefer using the button or clutch pedal instead of bypassing it, check the button and relay. Guessing on yours you have the option of stomping the clutch or pushing the bypass button to start? No issues with the clutch pedal switch?

 

Mine worked 3 times today at 18-30 degrees.

 

Yea I don't like bypassing safety interlocks, between tractors and manual trucks I'm used to having to push the clutch to start (button is just convenient at times)

Yea I can push the button and once active the truck can be started anytime without pushing the clutch until the key is turned off.

Nope clutch switch has never failed to work I just find it kinda funny that the button only refuses to work when it's cold, I'll probably change it and autopsy the old one if it get's annoying enough.

 

Since no issues with the pedal, then the relay is most likely ok, your push button is the culprit.

 

Keep in mind I'm only dealing with So Cal cold, but sometimes I just hold the clutch cancel switch down a few seconds until the light pops on, vs just pressing and releasing a few times. I think it won't engage until the fuel pump is fully primed and all systems are go. Planets in alignment, etc.

 

With yours, since both pedal and button are having issues, it could be the relay or possibly both the pedal switch and push button or perhaps all 3. It can confuse the situations cause, other factors such as ambient temperature, planets alignment and such.

If you have a multimeter you can test the relay and switches.

For the relay, find it, unplug it, test. I think it’s a 4 pin. If you don’t have a relay buddy tester don’t fret. Set the multimeter to ohms, probe the pins 2 at a time until you find the 2 that show considerable resistance. Those are the 2 that when 12v is applied, the other 2 are switched by the relay to closed(connected). Now you need a couple jumper wires. Hook the multimeter, set to ohms, to the switched pins, put 12v to the pins that showed resistance, connect and disconnect several times. You should be reading.7 ohms or less. Higher than .7 the relay is bad. Even better, you could get your 12v from where the relay plugs in. Be careful with the jumpers so you don’t short them together and melt them by the battery or pop a fuse if going from where the relay plugs in.

Or heck, just replace the relay, I’m sure it would be cheap. Or do what I did and bypass the relay. I made a short jumper wire, about 1.5” or enough to crimp on male spade connectors and make the 180 degree turn. Plug it into the relay socket into the switched slots, not the ones that showed considerable resistance. Now you’ve bypassed the entire clutch start safety deal, so don’t leave it in gear when parked and check it’s in neutral before starting it after someone else drives it. I was concerned it might affect how cruise control works but it changed nothing with it.

This button sounds like it isn’t a normal momentary on off switch so it might not test like one.

 

I believe it's basically a latching relay inside.

 

I just decided to take mine apart, quite a sophisticated little board in there for a switch.
I think I found the problem, they used a extra thick and pasty grease on the contacts, I bet when it gets cold the grease is too thick to make a connection.

 

Well………. Now you’re left with what type grease to use.

Conventional or Synthetic


BTW, I had a suspicion you’d actually take it apart
Thanks for sharing, definitely an interesting switch.

 

It looks like the solder holds up better than the overhead temperature gauge.
I think a lot of it has to do with the heat on the roof, the solder broke on the little resistor on mine.

Anyways, what is the black “socket” for next to the white one for the bulb?
It looks empty? Maybe used for something else too on another model?

 

Use silicone grease instead.

 

I'm guessing for the backlight, I've never paid attention if it lit up or not I'll have to look.
The white one is the indicator light.