Clutch / Starting / Shift Issues

I would prefer comments by people who have solved this problem or have solid knowledge / experience working on Tacoma manual transmissions.

I just purchased a used 1996 Tacoma which generally runs pretty nicely. The 5 speed manual transmission shifted pretty nicely on the first test drive.

What I have begun noticing was that it is necessary to push the clutch pedal VERY hard to the floor to get the enable crank switch to make so the truck would start. It felt like I was going to go through the floor. My wife couldn't even start the truck.

So I looked at the clutch pedal area. Suspected bent metal or something like that.

Switch seemed ok. (There is a second electric switch mounted higher towards the dash) I saw a 3/8" hole in the clutch lever and mounted a wooden block to it. (My logic was to allow the engine crank switch to "make" more easily).

But then afterwards it seemed like the transmission no longer went into first easily. It also seemed like shifting in 2, 3, and 4 were affected, as well. The Tacoma cranked more easily but it became hard to put into first gear.

Any thoughts ?

I'm wondering if there was an initial rubber bumper or something that went into that hole that I found that came into contact with the swtich.

 

I think the switch has an adjustment. It sounds like your clutch is reaching the end of its life.

 

Not sure if your year has a clutch cancel switch, but you could try that to rule out the switch. From what you describe about the shifting, it sounds more like an issue with the master cylinder, like what I went through. Basically, when you put your foot on the clutch the master cylinder plunger is linked to the pedal. That generates fluid pressure which goes to the slave cylinder and pushes on the fork in the bell housing under your feet. The fork pushes a throw out bearing inside the housing and causes the friction plates and clutch plates to stop touching. If your master or slave cylinder go there won't be enough pressure applied and the plates won't fully separate, therefore it will act as if you tried to shift or start the vehicle by only pressing the clutch pedal down a couple inches.

My recommendation, bleed the system just like you would bleed brakes. See if that fixes it as if the fluid is original it is probably full of water from normal use. If it comes back in a couple days try replacing the master cylinder and maybe the slave cylinder. They are fairly easy to change. Don't buy the one from Oreilley auto, I've been through 3 of those in a year.

 

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08/02/2013 After work yesterday, I removed the block of wood that I had fastened to the clutch lever through the hole that was already there. This was the wood block that pressed against the ignition enable switch.

I then unplugged the female connector from the ignition enable switch and then ran hard copper wire in the female end of the connector, jumping it out.

The car starts more easily now (switch bypassed) and strangely the transmission shifts "normally" like when I test drove it. Let's just say I am puzzled.

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By the way, different subject. Change gears, (that's a pun) The 96 Tacoma was missing tools necessary to change tires. Toyota shows a three piece extension rod that goes through the bumper. The salvage yard I went to got me a two piece set. I think the other year misplaced the third section and didn't send it. Any comments on that ? And what do you do with the hook end. Is that supposed to go through the bumper ?

 

Good deal your clutch is working better!

The hooked end fits through the bumper and attaches to the spare tire pulley and is basically a really big flat blade screwdriver to turn the whole assembly.

And yes, there are 3 parts, the hooked part, an extension, then the bent "U" handle jack extension that has the same square hole w/set screw in it.

Let me know if you need a picture of it, you should be able to find them online but on the offhand chance you can't, PM me and I'll get it.