CNC Plasma Table Build

I redesigned the mount. This time the engraver hole ended up slightly oversized. But nothing a tape shim could't fix.
So I will need to tweak that just a touch.

I may just end up using the printed mount once the design is final. I have some ASA and ABS as well as carbon fiber nylon at my disposal.




Testing the airslide.

https://youtube.com/shorts/GtrojWbhjyY?si=cI2zgb6fNE85MzBW

 

I was doing some more testing of the air scribe attachment. First off a quick bench test of the air solenoid. Then hook it all up.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Ic4BZlh5Y5E?si=mp_3m9tGYpJjtEwv

There is a precision air regulator to help control the how fast and how much pressure is on the air slide in the down position. Hopefully this will allow the scribe to "float" and not dig into the metal.

 

That allen key set, from Fastenal?

 

Its a klien set from home depot

 

started to do a rough layout with the new anti-collision torch mount along with the air scribe.



first thing I discovered is that the insert for the torch is the wrong size, its a bit too small on the inner diameter.
However I have a 3d printer, So I did a quick model



I will probably have to print this a couple of times and make some adjustments as I go.

I will also need to cut out part of the scribe down below the torch nozzle while still having some Downward Z travel. this way I can activate the slide lowering the scribe, then make fine adjustments with the Z axis, and when moving just raise the Z axis and lower to the work height as needed.




Before going further I need to get the new insert to fit properly so I can properly install the mount and torch once I figure out that ends up I can add the scribe mount and make sure I have enough travel so it works as planned

 

Lol. 100%!

I would have just tossed a few wraps of electrical tape.

Your way is much nicer.

 

tape is the temporary solution, but those tend to become permanent lol how much issue I have printing a proper spacer will determine the above.

 

got some more work down on the Air Scribe and new torch mount. Because of the design of the mount it was a bit difficult to get the cap head screw threaded in. So, it was time to put some bends in an old hex key.


as you can see below it worked fairly well.



If that looks like a good time, wait until you see how I ended up doing the layout for the holes. because of the shape of the mount I could not use a transfer punch, and I did not have a marker short and thing enough to reach through. So I ended up using an hex key that I put a bunch of red sharpie on the end



once I had it lined up and square to the Mounting plate, I stuck the sharpie coated hex
key in the hole and gave it a bit of tap to transfer the sharpie to the plate.




It worked better than I expected, left a nice mark that I was able to center punch for drilling an tapping



I did not get many pictures of the actual scribe mount being installed, it was hot and I wanted to get it done.
but one of the things I was going for was that the air slide was flush with the side of the Z Axis mounting plate.



After I was happy with everything I reinstalled, the mounting plate, and did some rough adjustment. I wanted to try and get a balance between the Torch travel and the scribe travel. the idea is to use the Z axis to retract the air scribe before moving. and when the air scribe is retracted, that there is enough room for the torch to move.





This will most likely need some adjusting as I move on with actual testing.

I was able to manage 49" of cutting along the X axis, but it is close.. a bit to close



if the Z axis is not retracted to the right position it will be easy to crash it and breaking a stylus on the scribe or worse.

Soo... it looks like I will end up with a solid 48"x48" cutting area once it all done. I was not sure how much room was need for the torch breakaway to function properly, Other wise I may have been able to move the scribe mount closer to the center line an gained a bit more room.





one thing I do know, is I really hope I never have to take this all apart again, it is slow and tedious to get it all together or apart and it all has to happen in the right order, or you lose access to other screws.

 

You do get faster the more times you take it apart.

 

On this one, I will stay slow

 

Started running the airline to the Z axis today. I had to order some different fitting that I was missing, mainly for 1/8"npt to 1/4" push to connect.






Each function has a different color, hopefully this prevents me from hooking something up backwards.

Slide up, slide down, scribe, and main supply will all have different color airline.

I went with a 12v air solenoid, this way I have a power source already to go for the LED lights I may add in the future.

 

What are you gonna run for a drain and refill system on your water bed?

I just ordered some gaskets and vanstone flanges for mine.

 

first thing I have got to get the dam thing water tight that issue has me not wanting to mess with the table, so I am forcing myself to do so with the air scribe project

My plan was to use air pressure to drain and fill, but that will be a long term project most likely. short term, ball valve and garden hose

 

I understand not wanting to take care of something sometimes because it's a hassle.

Have you considered welding all around the areas that leak?

Some manufactures suggest to use Flex Seal, whether it's aerosol or roll on, and is quite effective at keeping it water tight.

 

I have been working on that, but the biggest hassle is removing the flex seal in the areas that need rewelded, it gums up a flap disk quickly, Acetone and scraper doesn't do much, I have resorted to using the rosebud on the torch and burning it off. and then cleaning that up with a wire wheel and flap disk then going back rewelding. then checking for leaks again. it has been such a slow and tedious process that I have given serious thought to scrapping the water pan I made and just ordering one premade.

I have had several people tell the flex seal is a bad idea and will not last, but seeing how hard it is to remove, not sure I believe that.

 

Oh dang, I didn't realize you already coated it.

I wouldn't be suggesting it if I knew it wouldn't last. My friend runs his table 5 days a week for anywhere between 5 to 8 hours eacy day non-stop

Flex seal holds up just fine

 

It will get there just have to take my time. but the start of the future drain had an unplanned start when the TBI rage hit. another reason I stepped back from trying to seal the pan and focused on the air scribe.

I also discovered the X Axis home switch I recently added is showing tripped when its not, so I have to check the wiring on that. I need to retest the Y axis negative Limit switches after add some EMI filters to them. they where getting tripped when the plasma fired, and hoping I have solved that with the filters other wise it will be a bit more work to correct the proper way. The sensors for the torch Collison and touch off need added. along with a bunch of little quality of life things that need addressed. but we are still getting up near 100 degrees and my garage gets hot AF since the big uninsulated door faces the wrong direction for summer.

been years to get to this point, what's a little more time to get this table to where I want it.

 

The Air Scribe, is getting closer to being done. I need to figure out where i am going to mount the air solenoids and finish running the airlines, along with hooking up the solenoids to the control cabinet so Mach4 can take control. The post processor will need to be adjusted with the scribe offsets and then I can start actually testing properly.

https://youtube.com/shorts/8OhVsLq7dVY?si=Ax16XD2mgYmUv6cl

 

@Pyrotech

What are the specs on your lead screw for your Z axis?

I need to figure out the size and TPI on my own, and see about doing away with it altogether in lieu of something like yours.

 

here is the link to the rails and ball screw I used

$66 2PCS HGR20-300mm Linear Rail + 1PCS RM1605-300mm Ballscrew with BF12/BK12 Kit, DSG16H Nut Housing, Coupling, Slide Blocks Linear Guide Rail Ball Screw Set for DIY CNC Routers Lathes Mills

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Q3QP9Q4?ie=UTF8&th=1

and the motor mount used

$43 CNCTOPBAOS Nema23 Stepper Motor Steel Mounting Bracket and BK12 Bearing End,Integrated Motor Mounts Fixed Seat with End Support for 16mm Ballscrew SFU1605 SFU1610 SFU1604 SFU1616 SFU1620

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LV6FGCR?th=1

also you that setup uses this coupler the one with the ball screw kit is too short

uxcell Shaft Coupling 10mm to 10mm Bore L35xD25 Flexible Coupler Joint for Servo Stepped Motor

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G6QHP26?ie=UTF8