Coil lengths/rate question

I would have owned the truck a while before going 33’s. Like do 4.88’s then decide on tires. My single cab 2.4 manual had 31’s spaced out (from the wheels) in the front (2WD prerunner) and it was fun as hell

 

It came with 16” steelies and 265 75 16s KOs on it. It’s bearable, but couldn’t imagine any heavier of a tire - hence why 4.88 is needed for 33. My math puts me at 2750rpm @ 70mph. 5.29s would send me well over 3000rpm and not really an option for a DD. For 35s + 5.29 my math puts me at 2950. I can live with that seeing the 2.7 can live at 3k all day and be happy.

 

Sounds like you did your research.

 

Now let’s hope I don’t shit my pants too bad as I start all the cutting on a financed truck...

#gobigorgohome

 

Why are you cutting? On a 4- banger you should go 255’s for a 33”. 255/85-16...or 255/75/16 for a 32”.

Cutting on a finances truck just doesn’t sound smart...but people do whatever these days so I digress

Even the 285 wide tire on the 6-cyl is more for looks. You will probably be happier with the skinnies and they will perform better unless you are driving in sand dunes...

 

I can’t tell if you’re fucking with me or being serious after you just quoted “sounds like you did your research” to what I said about 4.88/5.29 & 33s/35s lol.

Why does anyone cut by that logic then? Lol. Let’s all slap 33 skinnies on and call it a day. I highly doubt most of the 3rd gens you see on this forum are 100% paid off in full cash. I also paid MUCH less as a 2.7 owner - more room to customize as I see fit my man, to each their own!

 

Only halfway screwing with you. Driveability on a 4-banger is more than weight. The steering with 285’s will be much different than skinnies on a 2.7. What you do to your truck is your call man.

 

Please elaborate. I’d assume steering would be much different on skinnies than 285s regardless of platform. If there’s something about my steering rack I don’t know about, let me know. Seriously, don’t want a headache if there’s something I don’t know about I’m overlooking.

 

It’s a lighter truck, you will have ALOT more bumpsteer and the truck will be jumping in and out of ruts in freeways worn by semis with 285’s. Skinnier tires just drive and steer better than wider tires...not even debatable. I went from 245’s to 265’s on my 4-cyl and the front was noticeable in the behavior change of how it drove...just sayin

Wider tires have more friction due to more rubber touching the ground so your steering pump and components have to work harder to turn those tires


Also, what is your goal? Looks or function?

 

Both. I don’t do any crazy off roading - light light trails, back roads, etc. If I want to do more, I hop In my buddies SASd 1st gen and beat the shit out of it up at the Rubicon an hour away.

My ‘17 is my DD, so I want to turn it more into an overland rig than anything as I’m starting to camp and travel more than I ever have.

 

I wouldn’t run wider than 265’s then...that’s just my opinion based on what you have told me. Looks come 2nd in my opinion also

 

I already have 265s and they’re stupid easy to handle, can practically drive with my third arm if I wanted to

We’ll see. SCS wheels today come first

 

I can't speak for 285s though they look phenomenal however I find the tall sidewall on 255/85s to have a lot of flex in those same freeway ruts. Skinny and tall tires would technically be more unstable for every day driving, but they handle nicer, and you can tell both aspects. The ice swell and big rigs on our highways create a lot of divets and you definitely sense instability with 255s. That being said I got a 33" tire that didn't require cutting or molding plastic or metal.
Edit: For what it's worth I would probably do 285s (285/75r17 specifically) not 255s if I ever wanted to cut up my truck and pay for the extra gas.

 

After years and years of modifying too many vehicles, I've come to think of springs reacting to weight in two ways: 1) sag, which is, ultimately, a defect in the spring due to stress, and 2) compression, which is simply weight causing the spring to react. Doesn't necessarily indicate there's a problem, simply that a higher rate spring of the same length, or a longer spring of the same rate, would be needed to compensate for the weight.

You (OP) keep referring to the 888s sagging after an amount of time. To me that indicates a defect. It would be interesting to know how many people reporting "sag" actually added weight that caused compression. As has been said, if the spring returns to its advertised free length once it's removed from the vehicle, then it's not defective.

As concerned as you are (understandably) with potential ride height variability, I'd suggest saving for adjustable coil-overs, so you can fine tune the ride height.

 

If you ask any knowledgeable 4wd shop they will tell you the wider the tire, the more they will want to wander on you. A 1/2-1” taller sidewall isn’t going to cause stability issues unless you are lifted tall to seriously offset your center of gravity, or if you drive like a maniac...(maybe OP does because he mentioned driving with his “third arm”)

OP also mentioned longevity because it’s his DD. Heavier wider tires wear down components faster. There is a reason all those Landcruisers and other like vehicles in other countries run skinnies...performance, better mpgs, and longevity. The only thing wider tires really accel in is sand

 

Agreed, lots of unsprung weight is going to cause tons of wear and tear. What I was mentioning was the flexibility you can feel with a taller tire. When I have no choice but to run through highway or trail ruts, I can feel the flex more than my stock size winters which deal with even worse ruts/divets because my city doesn't maintain roads worth shit with 3 feet of snow fall lmao. To me a bit of road wander doesn't feel quite as bad as that flex because wandering is easier controlled if your hands are on your steering wheel like they should be.
Edit: MPG alone is worth skinny tires, longer traction patch is also great.

 

I’m very much considering your advice on skinny 33s. NOT because I care a ton about extra wear and tear (to a degree), gas mileage, etc - most skinny 33s in MT are E rated +\- 60lbs anyways which put them right where Cooper 285s are. So you aren’t saving a ton of weight tire wise, simply MPG from less width.

Why I’m considering your advice is because I just can’t justify spending thousands simply to properly run 285s. Quality suspension + regear + wheels + tires can easily push you over 4 grand . Not to mention the cutting. If I’m going to drop that kind and money and effort for my 2.7, it’ll be for 35s and 5.29s. Period. End of story lol.

So it’s very appealing to have skinny 33s with no cutting, no lift, no regear. Just new wheels/tires and still plenty functional

 

So go 32” skinnies and have the best of both worlds. Cheaper, No cutting, lighter and just as capable as a 33” since the difference between 33’s and 32’s is trivial (1/2” on top and bottom of tire)

You will probably still want to regear with skinny 33’s

 

Want to fill out my wheel well just a little more. And I’m not buying new tires in the same size lol. If I want to stick with 265 I’ll just keep my KOs.

Current: 54lb KOs + 28lb steelies = 82lb per corner.

Skinny 33” Toyo 60lbs + 22lb Ray10 = 82lb per corner.

Yes, more diameter but I doubt it’ll affect me THAT much. If it’s really that bad, I’ll regear to 5.29 and 35s and be truly happy lol. It’s a cheap(er) route for now without spending tons of money.

Who knows, if I love the setup I’ll just keep it and be stoked I didn’t shell out 4-5 grand!

 

Wow. Those are heavy tire setups. I’m at 68lbs per corner. Toyos are some of the heaviest tires made from what I’ve seen

Do what you want it’s your truck