Cold air intake 3.4l

I'm thinking about installing a cold air intake but have heard stories of the gain in power is not worth the amount of fuel that is used. Are these stories true?

 

There are basically no gains. Fuel mileage isnt really affected either. Basically just makes more noise.

 

They are true.

The factory intake is very well engineered. The only gain you will get is a different sound. It fools you into thinking the truck is more powerful. It's not.

There have been reports of people claiming they get better MPG. The only way they get better MPG's is because they drive slower to reduce the sound coming from under the hood.

Lastly, the aftermarket intakes are going to run you $200 or so. To save that money in fuel, you would have to drive 200,000 miles to break even...if you got 2 mpg better economy. Not even close to worth it.

 

Sweet thanks guys!

 

The original airbox is already a cold air intake.

Of course the ambient temps in your area will effect the true intake temps
and likely won't offer any measurable difference in fuel use or performance.

What is gained... is the reusable/cleanable filter element.
And the fact you won't be spending money on filter elements in the future.
Thus saving more money... then fuel consumption would ever make up for.

Since '00... I have never needed purchase an air filter.

If sound is all yer after...
You can add a deckplate opening to your airbox and net that.
But realize the aft. mrkt. drop in elements are worse then the original fuzzy element.
So ya might as well stick with using that.
Unfortunately... it is not cleanable... and will require the expenditure of replacements.

I have both the K&N fipk as well the original AB W deck plate mod W fuzzy element.
I have tested both systems in the real world on a dusty trail.
I really couldn't see any visual difference of dust settling on the inside of the intake runner.
And so...
I rarely re-install my stock AB W DP mod and instead choose to utilize my K&N fipk intake.

Is the K&N fipk better then the stock AB w DP mod ?
...yes and no
The fipk's cone filter element is superior to K&N's drop in filter for the stock AB
Tho' oddly many attempt to compare both as to being the same. not

I will not use the K&N nor any other drop in filter for the factory AB.
Because frankly they are junk and not up to the task.

The fipk's cone element has more sq. inches of pleating material...
and the holes in the pleats are smaller, but more numerous within that sq'd inch.
The fact that oiling is involved... improve filtration to an even finer particulate.
^ assuming it were oiled - maintained properly.
K&N filters are designed to work best when not cleaned everytime it looks dirty.

Do I work for K&N ? no
Tho' I have had the K&N fipk installed on my '00 since it was new.
And I'm thankful of the money I did not spend on replacement filter elements.


I'll suppose it depends on...
if saving money by not needing purchase replacement filter elements down the road...
has any interest for you.

Is the fipk's intake system worth it's initial cost ?
Yes.
if you account for the lifetime purchasing of replacement air filter elements.

My truck runs as good today... as it did 16 years ago.

Regardless of which air filter is utilized...
Cleaning of the intake & IAC (properly) on occasion
helps keep the intake / idle performaning at it's best.

Best insurance for any intake...
change the oil on schedule
and maybe even prematurely if off roading in the dust often.

 

There is a snorkel inside the passenger side fender that goes from the airbox to about where the radio antenna is-this is supposedly for stream-fording capability. IMO it is slightly restrictive especially given that it turns sharply and then goes backwards in the fender. I, like others, pulled this thing and just left the airbox opening to take better advantage of the cold air supply within the fender, away from engine heat. This is called the "elbow mod".
I forgot the guy who tested this mod as well as the deckplate mod and found a 5hp gain in the deckplate mod and 3-4hp in the elbow mod.
Maybe I gained about a couple hp maybe not..but what became most evident after doing this mod was improved throttle responsiveness around town and a little more pickup when WOT. But not more actual power.
I feel all I did with this mod was bring the airbox back to how a non-snorkeled system would perform.
Far as CAIs I own a K+N and I don't like it. This mod runs better with the stock filter at least in my truck.

 

my '00 has no "snorkle" dumping out near the antenna as was stated.

My intake inlet extends maybe 5" rearward of the hole it fits thru.
Then it just turns downward.
The plastic inner fender liner reduces the chance of splash up occurring inside the fender well.
But that intake can still suck up water if submerged in water reaching the intake.

The stock AB is a true "cold air" intake (if there is such a thing)
tho' one should realize that the incoming air is simply the ambient air temps.
And when driving on asphalt... those temps are usually higher then say on dirt.

My K&N fipk element actually sits higher up in the engine bay
then does my stock AB's intake (inlet) if installed.

I recommend a sealed "true snorkle" if deep water crossings happen often.
But don't worry... other stuff will likely fail before water is sucked into the intake.

If water is sucked into the pistons thru the intake.
Turn it off immediately... and drain the cylinders of any water.
Water compressed by the pistons will likely blow the piston rings - oil seals
or blow the cylinder head gasket.

Failure to take action... could mean a bent or broken con rod or worse.

Do not attempt a restart if the engine shuts down due to possible water intrusion may have occurred. (drain the cylinders 1st)

Allowing the engine's pistons/cyl's to compress water... is a bad thing.

Also...

Whatever intake you change to...
realize you must unplug the battery momentarily
so that the e-system ('puter) can recalibrate for fuel/spark delivery.

Failure to recalibrate immediately
can leave one with a poor running engine initially
Because the recalibration will take more time otherwise.

The 'puter will attempt 'puter recalibration as it's driven...
but that process takes alot longer then does a disconnect.

I initially installed my fipk without disconnecting the 'puter (battery)
And it ran terrible and never really recalibrated to 100%

Once I disconnected the power supply by disconnecting the battery...
Recalibration occurred promptly after start up.

And I felt it was running as smooth as it was prior with the AB installed.

I also have disconnect my battery (voltage supply)...
if for some reason I wish to re-install my AB.

Otherwise it too... will not recalibrate promptly
and runs fer chit.

Anytime one alters the intake either stock or otherwise.
the e-sys/'puter needs be recalibrated.