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Cold air intake for 2.7

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by JOZ, Jun 23, 2009.

  1. Jul 1, 2009 at 5:57 AM
    #21
    jfr02

    jfr02 Well-Known Member

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    i've never had a problem with them.i've had them in my past few trucks,atv's,and dirt bikes.just keep them clean and DON'T OVER OIL!.also i've heard good things about afe.i think it's all what you like there is always mixed reviews about everthing.
     
  2. Jul 1, 2009 at 6:00 AM
    #22
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    The only problem with them is that they let too much dirt in the engine in dusty environments. Generally, Your not going to notice this unless you do an engine oil test. Any oil sample I did with a K&N type filter installed, the silica levels were off the chart. Silica = Dirt. They cant filter well at all.
     
  3. Jul 1, 2009 at 6:15 AM
    #23
    DanGer

    DanGer Avatar approved by 98tacomav6

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    White Head Light mod, White shorty antennae, Doug Thorley Long Tube headers, AFE Drop in air filter, Secondary Air Filter Removed,

    Exactly, they may provide good air flow but it comes at a price!
     
  4. Jul 20, 2011 at 9:11 AM
    #24
    gigem

    gigem Member

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    Hello, I'm brand new to any mods on my 02' 2.7 4cyl Tacoma. I used the advice from some folks on this site and was able to get the elbow mod done on the airbox in the dark with a flashlight. The problem/s I was having were:

    1. What I perceived to be poor fuel economy (blamed on this over weight/underpowered 4 cylinder truck)
    2. When it gets to 95 degrees or above for the 6 months of our year here in Houston, TX I can't let the truck idle in the driveway or get stuck in traffic with the A/C on high or it puts out a check engine light. It also sounds terrible at 65+mph like it is wheezing or asthmatic and struggling for air. This happens with a new drop in stock filter or a newly cleaned K&N. In the Winter months, it sounds fine and breathes easy.

    As for the elbow mod, I chose the option to remove the entire pipe from the fender well and cut the pipe off inside the fender just after it passes through the fender well so that it still looks stock from under the hood. I pulled the plugs for the first time and found what I hope to be big issues there. The plugs that were installed when they gave me a new short-block at 53k were the cheapest ones available for this truck. On sparkplugs.com (Denso K16R-U11). I don't know squat about gapping plugs for my truck, but the site says that they should have been gapped at .44

    When I measured them, they were .75, .72. .70 and .65. Could someone explain the significance of this to my fuel economy and or hp?

    The other HUGE question to me is this though. The plugs that I chose were Autolite Single Platinum AP3924. The site said that they should be gapped to .32 for my vehicle. I did this with a feeler gauge and feel that I got them very close to right on the money. The last thing I did was to pour in the Lucas recommended amount of their fuel treatment into the tank with a fresh fill. I had pulled the fuel injection fuse (or whatever big fuse that was that was recommended to be pulled for 15 minutes during the elbow mod change).

    The truck breathed VERY VERY well on a 100+ degree day and a 94 mile commute to our cabin at 70mph. Thank you all very much on the elbow mod instructions. Also thanks very much on showing me where in the hell the spark plugs were on this truck ha!

    The only thing that looks suspicious at this point is that my fuel economy really looked like it sucked. I always average painfully close to 19mpg but the gauge dropped to half tank way too quick on this fill.

    Finally...the long winded question (sorry folks): When you unplug the fuse like this and do this elbow mod/cold air intake mod does it take quite awhile before the computer figures out the correct air/fuel mix again so that you start to see your improved economy (if any)?

    Also, what is the best resource to make sure that I properly gapped these particular type of spark plugs. Oh yea...there were 2 silver rings on each of the replacement plugs. One was slightly smaller than the other. I believe I installed them with the smaller ring closer to the piston than the larger. Does this matter?

    Thanks in advance,

    Longwindedbrokenwind (my Indian name)
     
  5. Jul 20, 2011 at 9:26 AM
    #25
    97yota4wd

    97yota4wd Well-Known Member

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    caged, camburg long travel, 50t leafpack (soon to be installed) light rack over cab, 5pt harnesses etc
    for my truck (97 2.7l) the gap is 31.

    i would also suggest using sparkplugs that come from the factory. NGK or.... shit i forgot the other one that all data said to use. the best source to find out the gap would be all data. ( mechanic shops have this )

    and i dont know why you got really bad MPG at first.. maybe it did take awhile to get the air/fuel mixture right idk.

    sorry im not too much help lol
     
  6. Jul 20, 2011 at 6:21 PM
    #26
    gigem

    gigem Member

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    Yea, I should have done some research before buying the plugs 8 months ago or so. It took me that long to get them out of the package and into the truck...so I guess this is a step forward. If I continue to get crap mileage, I'll have to try the plug change to the iridium at least. That would be worth the $60 if it makes a difference. I'll run a few tanks through and report in again. Thanks!
     
  7. Nov 27, 2017 at 6:55 PM
    #27
    Cory_CHAM

    Cory_CHAM New Member

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    You don't notice an increase in power. You do however notice an increase in throttle response and it definetly breathes better and sounds better.
     
    Crimson Flam3s likes this.
  8. Dec 5, 2017 at 10:27 AM
    #28
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    This might qualify for zombie thread of the year. I'm not criticizing, just making an observation. We've all done it.
    Untitled.jpg
     
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  9. Dec 5, 2017 at 1:26 PM
    #29
    Greenbean

    Greenbean B.S. Goodwrench

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    I for one, love more traffic in the 2.7L specific forum.

    Even if it’s resurrecting, lol...

    I one day next summer will be removing the massive intake snorkel from inside my fender and probably going AFE for a filter.
     
    DGXR likes this.
  10. Dec 6, 2017 at 8:39 PM
    #30
    TRVLR500

    TRVLR500 Well-Known Member

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    I have to agree. I've heard that about K&N's for years and years. They really are for a race engine that is torn apart and redone regularly. I'd bet the longevity of the 2.7 has a whole lot to do with the way the air filtration is designed from the factory.
     
  11. Dec 6, 2017 at 8:44 PM
    #31
    TRVLR500

    TRVLR500 Well-Known Member

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    You will notice nothing as far as performance is concerned with iridiums. I put them in my 2004 2.7 when it was time to change the standard coppers. I noticed no difference whatsoever as far as power, throttle response or any increase in fuel mileage. The "only" thing that is great about iridiums is the fact that you can put them in and not worry about them for up to 100,000 miles which is the "only" reason I put them in mine. Pure copper is the best conductor out there. Anything else just lasts longer.
     
  12. Dec 6, 2017 at 8:56 PM
    #32
    TRVLR500

    TRVLR500 Well-Known Member

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    You're right. My last analysis had "insolubles" at 0.4 and that is with an oil sample that was almost 8400 miles old. Insolubles are "dirt" as well. 0.6 is the average. My silicon was at 11 and the normal averages are 12. I suspect that is in PPM. Silicon, however, could be part of the add pack for the oil I use. I'd have to look that up. It's probably just a "wording difference" depending on who does the analysis.

    I just did look it up. Silicon can be airborn dirt, gasket material or antifreeze. So yes, we want low silicon numbers in an oil analysis.

    My air intake is completely stock. I like it that way. I just can't see the point in trying to turn a 2.7 into a "powerhouse" because it never will be. Unless it's supercharged it is what it is and there isn't much that can be done as far as really boosting the power.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2017
    chris4x4[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Dec 6, 2017 at 9:05 PM
    #33
    TRVLR500

    TRVLR500 Well-Known Member

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  14. Feb 24, 2019 at 3:25 PM
    #34
    Dragon007

    Dragon007 Member

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    I just put a spectre high air cold air intake and it keeps killing my truck keeps saying secondary air injection air flow/pressure sensor circuit high
     
  15. Feb 25, 2019 at 10:51 AM
    #35
    JL8Jeff

    JL8Jeff Well-Known Member

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    Make sure you didn't pinch off any vacuum lines or crack any of them. See if you can post a picture of your setup on the truck so we can see if you connected something wrong. What year is your truck.
     
  16. Oct 10, 2022 at 10:36 PM
    #36
    mushroom_man7

    mushroom_man7 Well-Known Member

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    i put a dust/water filter on the intake when i know im going somewhere dusty. it probably restricts airflow but i dont need a crazy amount of power when im somewhere dusty really. easy to wash and keeps filter cleaner for longer.
     
  17. Oct 10, 2022 at 10:36 PM
    #37
    mushroom_man7

    mushroom_man7 Well-Known Member

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    forgot the picture but something like this

    C552CF84-9C86-49E3-B1A7-FE0FA4BC2B65.jpg
     
  18. Oct 11, 2022 at 7:46 AM
    #38
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Thats a good "Band-Aid", but the filter "sock" they offer simply blocks the larger stuff that the filter would have caught. It doesnt stop the fine particles from entering your engine.
     
  19. Oct 13, 2022 at 4:12 PM
    #39
    0xDEADBEEF

    0xDEADBEEF Trash Aficionado

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