Cold Air Intakes. Debunking false claims.

After reading all information here, I've decided to add a molle panel to the driver's side DC storage bin...........it shouldn't be detrimental to the MAF or affect filtering/air flow in any way.

 

Thanks for giving providing that info in a mature way. I guess it doesn't really matter which one I use, I just need to find a shop that can get my hooked up. Most the shops around me are very small and work on smaller cars primarily .

 

No problem. I find no need to make enemies

 

Dear heavenly father, please bestow wisdom and guidance upon TacoSauce and guide him to find a dyno.....

 

Yea but it increases the chances of becoming a tackleberry by 75%.

 

A stop watch (or G-Tech Pro) and straight section of road could do the same...

 

They could but it wouldn’t give accurate data.

Data log, flat road and using the virtual dyno program/excel would be better.

 

Then get your truck impounded and you in cuffs for street racing

 

It would be repeatable however, accuracy is secondary for comparative testing--also the G-Tech instruments are surprisingly accurate, I've done a lot of tuning using one of their original models:

 

The ability to repeat the test in the same way accurately is the most important part of comparative testing. A g-tech, while it will work somewhat if used properly, will create a variable for failure.

OBD Data loggers are cheap and very readily available now a days. In addition to calculating any power change, you can also get an idea of AFR, timing, calculated airflow, throttle position, calculated load, ect. A much better tool for the job.

 

Not me, after that nonsense I'm out of this one...

 

I was trying to be nice.

Nonsense is thinking using a gtech is an acceptable way of tuning

 

I installed my AFE intake on my 2017 that I had removed from my 2016. I took some pictures to share.

So much talk about what is the necessary air requirement for this engine in regards to the capability of the filters themselves. What about other factors like bends in ducting, change in flow direction, and where the air is coming from?

AFE vs OEM
For most efficient flow, post filter,
This?:

Or this?:

...Plus this:

Only cold air enters the inner fender, right?




The air behind the grille is directed towards the radiator and away from entering the inner fender.

Where does AFE pull air from? All the same places:

Except, air can also come from above the radiator with the optional scoop (where the ambient air IS directed after entering the grille):


Now I haven’t actually seen what the IAT’s are before and after this installation, so all of this may mean absolutely nothing. These are just observations that I have made from first hand experience and it seemed like this was a good place to share.

On my 2016 MT, I thought that there was some mild gains in the lower RPM’s, a somewhat flat feeling around 3500 RPM, and noticeable gains in the higher RPM’s. Placebo? IDK. I thought that I’d give this system another chance on my 2017 AT. As of this moment, I haven’t left the garage so I can’t comment on how it feels on the new truck.

I’m anxious to see the before and after dyno charts when the OP can get it done!

 

the OP has been AWOL on this subject since May 16,2018

 

HE probably got the dyno runs done; and found there was no difference.

Years back we ran numerous tests on "new edge" ('99 to '04) Mustangs--which also come with an OEM cool air intake--and found no after-market intake that did anything but make more noise, with the expected placebo effect. Some even robbed power in certain rpm bands, as they were just pieces of pipe rather than tuned chambers like the stock system.

Why would any manufacturer design and install an inefficient intake system? Just to hurt fuel economy and advertised HP?

 

I’d never get a k&n due to the fact it lets more particles and dirt into the engine. They flow for sure, but I’d rather have more protection. You wanna see gains or extra get up and go? Just regear the damn truck. Best $ spent.

 

Haha, this is not over yet. I was not successful in my 1st attempt and I have been extremely busy since I run a detailing business on the weekend and its busy season now. I have a couple free weekends middle of July so might try to make this happen again around that time. Still open to suggestions if anyone finds a dyno that can fit my truck

 

Most efficient design for a manufacturer can compromise flow efficiency for cost efficiency and ease of maintenance. The stock intake setup is much easier to service and work around. The OEM system would likely win the long term durability battle of the intake parts themselves as well.

No auto manufacturer would intentionally build in efficiency robbing restrictions into their product. But no auto manufacturer is going to spend money on engineering that wouldnt bring them financial gain either. Mustangs being performance oriented vehicles, the engineering of OEM parts for more performance would have a greater return on investment as general performance is more likely to make sales. Toyota is still going to sell more midsize trucks than their competitors regardless of being a little underpowered or not. Simplicity, durability, and noise levels are what would be more important to Toyota.

OV Tune is gaining hp and mpgs, why did Toyota leave all that on the table?

 

No auto manufacturer would intentionally build in efficiency robbing restrictions into their product . I would argue they do this for EPA reasons. Just look at the transmission, you think they intentionally built a transmission that sucks that bad for any other reason? lol I did the OV Tune and it gained HP and MPG's.... if you were correct in your thinking , then why wouldn't Toyota just have mapped the ECU and TCU like the OVTune does? My guess is EPA standards.