Cold Starts

Cold start? 29F? Must be nice. My cold starts begin at -4F and top out at -67F. The engine sure does roar at those temps.

 

Brutal, have you thought about using a transmission and oil pan heater?

 

I have no affiliation with Liqui Moly, I just like many of their products. Their Moly Gen oil is very good as well. I use M1 Euro as it has a lot of zddp at 1/2 the price so I go this route.

 

In order for ceramics to work, the surface has to be prepped so it can adhere to it. Merely mixing it I to the oil is just that. There may be other ingredients in the additive that increases lubricity but it's not the ceramic that's being marketed.

 

The problem is everyone who uses it testifies that it does work and it ludicrous to say this is placebo. 19k+ reviews on Amazon, countless threads over many different forums, and on and on, I’m no fool my friend, I’m not a Toyota engineer but I have built and balanced multiple motors. I’ve wrenched on many different vehicles over my years, it absolutely does work. I would not be here recommending it if I did not. I stand nothing to gain but sharing with the community, which is my goal. The problem is the community attacks people left and right, which is discouraging and makes me feel it’s pretty pointless to share info.

What I find most interesting is those that constantly argue against the products refuse to try it. This is huge red flag in my book and discredits any arguments. Knowledge is experience, you get the point. By the way, here is an example of how smooth my idle is after treating my motor. Notice how the RPM’s vary ever so slightly and vibrations are notably reduced. I don’t claim to know exactly how it works but it does. I suggest you take some time and research about the product or maybe even give it a try yourself. There is even a YouTube video where the guy puts in a lawnmower and sees results. Kind of a bad video, tons of stuff out there from those that use it.

https://youtube.com/shorts/IAOz2GEPL-Y?si=DHSReqSUjQp9Vm5U

 

dude, Oil type has nothing to do with RPM fluctuation at idle...

 

I change mine regularly at 4000-5000 intervals. That’s on my 3g Tacoma, my 5g 4R and my 2011 Camry. The Camry is the only one that uses oil. I’m gonna ride this schedule as long as possible and see how things pan out.

 

Nothing to do with oil, everything to do with CeraTec and the ceramic coating that adheres to the internals, hence reducing friction, reducing vibrations, reducing wear, and increasing mileage. Give it a try.

 

Just stop lol.

 

No one is arguing that some of these additives don't work as advertised. What we're trying to say is that 99.999999 percent of the tacomas on the road do just fine with regular old oil. Hot climate, cold climate, Arizona to Alaska, whatever.

German engines are finicky and prone to failure, they need all the help they can get. Change oil on a VW or Audi with high milage timing chains and you'll really hear some slapping when you start it back up. The first direct injected Audi 4 cylinder was notorious for the high pressure pump eating the camshaft. That's why there is a market for additives with those cars. They don't last.

Toyota engines are not finicky and have been proven to go many hundreds of thousands of miles on regular, non-fancy oil. Isn't that why we buy them? Because they can take abuse and still be OK right?

Am I missing something? Where are all these toyota engines that are failing because of cold start lubrication issues?

I'm simply not going to buy a car that needs miracle goop to stay quiet when it's brand new. I would buy something else

 

I like data driven approaches. Duder in the vid below runs a few tests with different equipment and shows the results. For those that do not want to sit through the vid, conclusion is that duder saw 1% fuel efficiency increase as well as internal friction being reduced. Film strength was slightly better with the product but there are other products that do much better on film strength. Product did nothing for compression over the test period so the "fills in microscopic gaps" may take longer or just be marketing.

 

Good luck

It does take longer to fully adhere. This is my experience and if you read many of the reviews they same the same thing. There is a member of this forum that went to a Tundra from a Tacoma, he used this product with my suggestion, he saw a 3.6 mpg increase. Pretty significant actually. I sent him a message to see if he will chime in and report his personal experience. Hope he does not mind me sharing.

 

I'll bet the toyota engineers haven't even seen that lawnmower video on YouTube. Somebody should send them a link

 

Oil threads never cease to amaze me ... or entertain me for that matter. As someone who doesnt own a 3rd Gen anymore i dont have a dog in the fight, however I will add that the only time mine didnt make a racket was on a cold start. Once she warmed up, all bets were off. Also ... the entirety of the O.P's stance on this sounds like a sales pitch.

 

When Op's motor blows up will he blame this product and leave a bad review online?

 

Here are a few reviews I found since OP bases his engineering research based on Amazon reviews. Remember, positive add are easy faked on amazon and is a common practice on there. Don't believe me, research it.

Typically, bad reviews aren't faked.

You couldn't pay me to put this shit in my truck. Goodbye warranty if you ever have an issue and they see this weird film on all of your internal engine components.


.Read your owner manual. Do NOT use this in any Volkswagen engine. I do not know if this caused my problem, but upon using it in my Jetta with a 1.4L the engine apparently developed issues with its bearings and had to be replaced. I am meticulous in my maintenance, so the fact that the use of this product coincided with the engine failure is HIGHLY suspect. Volkswagen engines are EXTREMELY picky about what you use in them and the owner manual is very clear that a very specific oil be used to ensure the engine’s long term durability. That is not to say that, say, a Toyota engine or Chevy engine would not mix well with this product, but I would never use it in any European car given how specifically they engineer them. BUYER BE WARNED!


.I noticed no improvement in gas mileage or idle when used as directed in my BMW V8 w/ 54k miles on a 600 mile road trip.

.Beware of this !!! I put it in both my vehicles. It seems fine at first but then after 3months I notice both vehicles oil consumption was going down fast. This had never happened before in-between oil changes on either vehicle. We also have now oils leaks dripping onto the driveway. Don't use

.Despite all the great reviews and the recommendations of guys on YouTube raving about how great this product is, I had the misfortune of it not helping at all. On the contrary I started to get misfires the very next day. I have a 2014 Mercedes C300 with 115k miles, was getting quite an increase in lifter ticking. So I decided to add this to my car after changing the oil with the hope it would help and just my luck, car is now misfiring. Thought it may have been a Coil, Spark Plug or injector, but all working well. So I regret adding this to my engine. Car was running great prior to this with the exception of some ticking. So good luck to all who chose to add this to their engines. I guess it’s not for every car.

.I tried this product and my pickup started to idle poorly. Cam phazers are sticking. I use Mobil 1 5-20 and changed oil every 4500 to 5000 miles.

You want a honest review here it is. This is the worst product you can use in an engine. Will cause check engine light to come on. Cam sensors will not work properly in the engine if you remove them you will see what I am talking about. They will look like they were painted. Causes camshaft malfunction error in german cars. I had to flush the engine and change oil twice to remove this brown waste. Spend a ton of money to get rid of this. Not worth the time and money.

.don't use it....it will mess your engine up. i added in my Audi A8 and it caused the main sensor to blow due to different pressure coefficient.
DONT USE IN EXPENSIVE CARS....might be ok for american junk cars.

.Coated my cam shaft position sensors in silver crud and caused a check engine light.

.I’m just glad I saved the oil L.M. 0w20 W cera tec . I poured the oil out into a clean pan because the oil had only 350 miles on it. I was replacing the factory plastic pan with a 7 quart aluminum nice pan. And I decided to give er a clean filter to bulk price. When I screwed off of the housing the just move or less remained almost like honey so back into the motor. Like my filter with 350 miles on was clogged with non F In particles . Then when emptying the OEM plas pan it was kinda like panning for gold and the oil and the particles would separate and not look like I would put in my engine. Now I’m slightly embarrassed driving a car with only 30.000 miles smoking blue smoke


.It made my cars valves so noisy that I had to flush the whole system … bad , bad, bad .. you’ll regret it !!!

 

lol, it’s supposed to an additive thread not an oil thread, I should of never mentioned my oil choice. I wish I had not. I kind of knew the direction this would most likely go, but it was worth a try. I work in sales and project management but for the entertainment production industry. I deal with high end LED walls, audio system, lighting, rigging, video processing and such. Mostly corporate. Unfortunately, no extra money for me just a friendly recommendation.

 

OPs motor isn’t going to blow up because he spends all his time changing the oil in it instead of driving it. He’s already changed it 4 times in the first 7,500 miles.

 

lol, that pretty funny. Actually, this is only for the break-in. From now on it’s every 5k miles.