Cold startup adjustment

My 2000 prerunner 2.7 has rather highstartup rpm. Sometimes 1500 rpm then gradually lowers to normal rpm within 2-3 minutes. Is this normal? I’d rather see 1000-1200 at first then lower to normal rpm .
Can this be adjusted? Just hate to see such high rpm at firsts
Thanks to all

 

Im not a toyota tech, was a ford tech...
Ide say pretty normal, wouldn't mess with it...
There may be an adjustment for a base idle stop, but should all be computer controlled, DONT mess with it...
If there was an issue, should throw a code.
If anything, you want to do something...
With the car off, take the air snorkel off at the throttle body, open the throttle plate & use a rag & some brake cleaner, or even just household alchol, clean the throttle body as best as you can...
couldn't hurt, if its never been done..
That right there in-itself will improve idle quality. Should be done periodically at time of tune-up, or whenever you have access to it...
Overtime, it builds grime / dirt at all the seams...
clean the top & bottom of the round throat along with upper / lower front & back sides of the throttle plate "butterfly"
you can wrap a shop rag around a screwdriver to get more reach than your digits...

 

Normal, no need to change anything.

All fuel injected engines run the engine faster when it's cold as a warmup strategy, no different than an old carbureted engine when the choke is on.

 

With my 2014 4.0L, the idle starts high and stays that way for about minute, gradually idling down a little at a time. The colder it is the higher the initial rev. RPM. Putting it in drive calms everything down some, but it's still higher than the full warm idle level for a time.

 

Thank you both. I figured as much. I’ll clean the throttle body and see if that changes the start rpm.

 

Thanks to all

 

Not sure this is good advice.

If you are going to clean the throttle body, remove it from the truck first. Then remove the IAC valve before doing the cleaning. Because of its location, it is too easy to gunk up the IAC when cleaning the TB.

 

What part isn't good advice????
Please elaborate.....

Only advice I gave was cleaning the TB...
I have no idea of peoples technical skills & removing a TB from the car for some could be a can of worms.......
Youre not going to hurt anything by not removing it, less is more.....
Zero, absolutely zero reason to remove it.
Can be cleaned just as well, by leaving it on.....

Thats the only advice I gave!!!
So, lets hear it......

 

Youre not going to gunk up your IAC, by spraying some chem tool or brake cleaner on a rag & wiping the little bit of gunk & build-up from the tb throat & plate.....

Was just a quick suggestion as its often overlooked by many....

Have a can of brake cleaner & want to spray out the IAC too & ports, have at.....

 

This is actually what happens when the IAC is left attached. The solvents allow gunk to drain into it or get knocked into it. There is a direct opening to the IAC right below the butterfly. Removing the TB from the truck allows access to the IAC to remove it before cleaning up the TB.

 

I never said spray the tb, with anything that would allow residual solvents or even alcohol in the IAC as your claiming....
Spraying some brake clean which is mostly alcohol, & I even stated you can use house hold alcohol, onto a rag & wipe the TB.....
Nothing is growing or swimming, were not knocking off chunks, etc....

It will be fine.....
Done who knows how many in my 32 years, they dont come back with sticking / faulty Iac's....
Every time I have the snorkel off a car, I try to wipe it out...
Customers cars, in a career....
If it was an issue, ide know...
Along with all the drivability / tune techs....

 

Procedure as above is how I have cleaned the TB over the years: rubber gloves, shop rag, carb or brake cleaner or equivalent. Spray rag (sparingly), wrap it around a couple of fingers, wipe down TB and butterfly until clean: Done. No harm/no foul.