Colinb17's kinda sorta build thread - now with 4-link and long travel

lights everwhere still need to mount the other cameras.

trying to decide how deep i want to go with cameras. with my current switching setup, it's cake to add one more, but if i want to ad more than one, it takes the same effort whether i add 2 more or 4 more.

 

on a totally unrelated note, and in regards to something i know very little about........at what location along the exhaust is the proper place to weld in the bung for a wideband sensor?

my assumption would be after the y-collector, but before the socket joint that goes to the muffler???

 

Its not much higher than a factory 6spd runs at 75mph. And 4.56's aren't much different than 4.88's. I ran about 1850rpm at 75mph on 3.73's when the tires were new. When you go to 4.56's you'll probably run about 2400-2500 rpm.

It has plenty of go though! Takes a pretty steep hill to make it downshift. At 65mph it literally won't downshift even on really steep hills. And just for reference, I am bone stock under the hood.

 

I believe that is correct.

 

i'm doing well up hills in 1st through 3rd at the appropriate speeds. even 4 is pretty good. can't accelerate in 4 up a hill, but it'll hold as low as 40-45 up hill prety well. it's not happy in 5th at all though if it's anything more than about a 4 degree slope.

if i didn't have all of my un-aerodynamic stuff bolted on, i'd probably get killer highway MPG

around town it's actually doing great. i don't gun it off the line though, so i don't need much.

The URD MAF calibrator seems to have been a good investment though. when i first put it in, it dropped the shift points back down to where they were with stock tires, in stead of holding gears forever. and even with the new tires, the shift points are still lower than 33s without the URD.

 

Interesting. I didn't know maf cal affected shift points. My 3.73's hated hills will my 33's... it wasn't that I couldn't maintain speed it just rode in 3rd and 4th a lot.

The un aerodynamic aspect kind of sucks. I think thats why I down shift at 75 but dont at 65. Too much wind drag.

 

it doesn't directly affect them of course, but my guess is that the computer sees that it's now getting enough fuel that it doesn't need to hold out for another couple hundred rpm. again, i'm not well versed in this area, so i'm just reporting observations and taking guesses

 

I see. Bullydog just released a tuner for the 09+ that can either let you choose the shift points or at least adjust them to hold longer or shorter. Can't remember which now.

 

my $800 moneysaving tip for that is to shift later, work the shifter through the gears, or to shift earlier, just tap the shifter into 4 and back to drive real quick. don't know why it works, but that always gets my truck to up shift lol

that's a cool tuner though. do we know how it hooks up yet? i'm assuming you have to unplug all of your connections to the ecu and this replaces them and then they plug back into the unit

because i'm pretty sure you can't do all of what they are saying through obd2, and i doubt prople are going to want to chop up their factory wiring harness and solder 100 wires together.

 

Not sure. Mr.TRD could tell you more I think. He helped a little with testing it out for them. I assume it is just a piggyback though like the APR X-1, pro-efi, etc. Appears to be just a slight step up from the Maf-cal, so probably not worth the cost. I don't know anything about tuning though so maybe it is closer to on par with the X-1 and such, but since it doesn't come with cam gears to advance the timing I doubt it.

Might be nice for the 09+ guys though since last I knew none of the other piggy-back systems work for them yet.

 

got both cab mounts looking like this last night. still a little rubbing, but better. i would have done more, but it was pissing me off how long it was taking with the dremel. took a good half hour per side with the dremel, which would have been maybe 5 minutes with a grinder.

someone slap me next time i think it's a good idea to toss all of my tools in a storage unit halfway across the country
Guess i'll be going out to buy another grinder tonight or tomorrow, so i can actually make some progress on the cab mounts this weekend.


I also may try an additional approach, after talking with Linwood last night. I completely overlooked the adjustability of the LR UCAs. if i'm still having some issues after cutting the cab mount back more, i can spin the balljoint on my uppers and actually move the top of the spindle forward. Of course that will sacrifice some castor, but within reason, i'll take that loss to be able to stuff the front.

 

Pics?

 

oops, forgot to ctrl-v........

 

Cut more. Well I did anyways

 

i will. just not until i get a grinder. dremel is awesome, but sucks for 1/8'' plate.

you still have a lot of issues with the spindles? i thought that would have slved your issues.

 

Pack your bags cab mount.

 

You still working on that?

 

dremel was slooooooooow going. when i chopped it the first time, i welded it back up pretty good.

I'm just glad it's not Mikes "mgrande" truck. when we did his cab mounts a while back, i told him to pick up some steel on his way to my house to box in the chop...... he showed up with two 1'x1' squares of 1/4'' steel plate pain in the ass cutting and bending that shit to contour the chop we made. i hope he never has to trim his mount more, because it's going to be absolute hell.

 

i'm loving the shift points with the urd and 35s. i was driving around town after work picking some stuff up, and had my scan tool going. 1000 rpm at 45 mph in 5th gear fuel consumption reading was right where it should be for 1000 rpm under load. i haven't done the math, but if i drive everywhere at 45 mph (without stoplights), i should be getting more than 20 mpg lol