Camping Truck 04 DC Build (4x4 Conversion)

I’m going manual hub. I’m not qualified to do the ADD conversion.

 

The diffs should be the same with ADD and Manual. The difference is the ADD vs Manual extension tube and the axle stub that goes in the passenger side of the ADD diff. You can pop that stub out pretty easily with a long screw driver from the other side of the diff.

 

That’s a lot to digest!

Are you doing Manual Hubs or ADD? If you’re doing ADD then no pressing is necessary. It’ll bolt right on no problem. Your front differential is set up for ADD even though you have J-Shift, all 4Runners are setup like this. However, that 4Runner will have a vacuum actuated shift fork. Hooking this up is a little more involved.

Therefore I recommend you pickup an electronic actuator off a later Tacoma so you can just wire it with ease instead of having to mess with VSV’s and vacuum lines.

 

I remember when I did my conversion - that gear stub just would not just come out no matter what I did. I had to open the clamshell and hammer the gear stub out of the ring and pinion, this is the same method @Timmah! used in his guide.

 

I'm a bit overwhelmed right now. Had a lot to get done on my days off with school coming up. I'm 100% doing manual hubs.

I've looked around for a few minutes to see if an electronic actuator was listed up on Ebay but didn't come up with much. I found an aftermarket it looks like?

$427 APDTY 711521 Front Differential Actuator Replaces 41400-34013, 4140034013

https://www.amazon.com/APDTY-Differential-Production-41400-34013-4140034013/dp/B00QB486NW but I don't trust an aftermarket part for something like this. Might end up purchasing a different front diff if it becomes an issue.

 

That’s the one. But if you don’t want to do ADD, the actuator that’s there is useless. For Manual Hubs you just lock the shifter fork with a hose clamp OR you can do it the stock way by swapping the entire tube, which I did. That manual hub axle tube is very hard to find.

 

I guess I could post that I'm looking to buy a tube in the 1st gen marketplace. If not I can hose clamp it and seal the hole I'll leave with the ADD tube missing?

As for other issues I'm seeing. I'm going to have the hubs pressed out of the 4Runner spindles and salvage whatever parts I can since they were replaced recently, if the bearings/seals are compatible with manual hubs. The cv axles seem fine but have an unknown history. My other options are to call CVJ axles in Denver and get a quote or purchase remanufactured cvs from Toyota.

 

There’s no point in pressing out the 4Runner hubs since they’re ADD. Just straight out buy manual hub steering knuckles to save you the trouble.

You leave the ADD actuator where it is. You just unbolt it first and lock it in 4WD.

 

I'm trying to keep my ABS even though a lot of people have said it's worthless on these trucks. Which leads me back to the pressing situation or buying a set. I'm assuming some trucks came equipped with manual hubs and ABS so I could try and find a set of those steering knuckles. I know buying every component in the manual hub assembly is upwards of $400 from Toyota plus getting it pressed. Edit: Everywhere I've searched is saying no manual hub Tacoma had ABS so it's either ditch it or pay for it I guess.

 

You are correct in saying no Tacoma Manual Hub truck came with ABS equipped. If you’re adamant on keeping it then your only option is pressing it. If that’s the case, I’d buy the wheel bearings and hubs brand new and press them in. It’s roughly the same price.

 

That's pretty crazy. I found an old post on TTORA where a guy explained the method that I ended up using. It came out pretty easily, it was just a matter of having a long enough screwdriver and getting at just the right angle through the diff. It basically popped out the same way a CV axle would pop out.

 

That’s what everyone else was telling me to do. I guess I just didn’t have a long enough screw driver or pry bar - I was prying so hard I almost marred the mating surface. If you get the right tool and the right angle it’ll pop right out.

I’m glad I opened the clamshell because my ring and pinion were the wrong gear ratio. I would’ve destroyed my transfer case if I didn’t know.

 

Yeah I guess I'll just press out my 2WD hubs and press in the new ones. @taco71742 kept ABS on his 2004 also. As for the cv axles I can buy remanufactured and sell my ADD cvs.

After that the only part I'll be missing is a rubber transfer case shifter boot to keep dirt out. I even got a brand new trim surround from a dealer for $55 with the leather boot.

 

That transmission mount price tag really hurts.

 

I've decided to go with CVJ Axles for my CVs. Not much more expensive to get a remanufactured set of OEM CVs with a custom high angle boot. Plus they'll take my old ADD CVs off my hands and refund me a deposit. As long as the ones I send them are OEM which they appear to be.

 

Be super careful bro. Check out @frenchee's 4WD swap. He messed up his bearings while pressing his hubs because he too wanted to keep ABS.

 

I'm definitely concerned about that part of the conversion. It's my only choice right now since the parts 4Runner isn't set up for manual hubs either.(ADD/Jshift setup) So I figured might as well press them into my Prerunner/ABS spindles. I've been watching @Timmah! video on a 4Runner manual hub conversion to understand the pressing job. I'll be taking these hubs to a machine shop to be pressed but I want to be as knowledgeable as possible when I go in to have it done. Those bearings aren't cheap...

 

@BartMaster1234 Since I don't have a parts truck that had manual hubs I won't have this part of the hub sub-assembly 43502-35160 right? Which are pretty pricey new.

 

Not sure what part that is. I would just buy the manual hub steering knuckles outright.

 

Yes they aren't cheap that's for sure.
I got manual hubs off a 4runner non ABS and swapped them into my pre runner.
I only kept the ABS for legality and insurance reasons. Its absolutely terrible in this truck.

I didn't properly support the backside of the bearing. Using a push button hydraulic press at work I pressed one too many times and kinda crushed the casing lol.
Man I was sweating just removing the old ones. The amount of force for it was kinda nuts. Pressing the bearings in is one thing. Then you have to press in the spindle. Was a hell of a job honestly and not to toot my own horn but I'm pretty mechanically inclined.
Also, I can't recall the torque on the gold nut but its something like 200 ftlb. Was not easy to achieve.
I can't believe 2nd gens have it so easy.