Collision repair project (radiator core support etc) - 2000 Tacoma 2WD 2.4L

(Earlier thread about my project:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ing-with-replacement-radiator-support.830828/ )

(Control Car - thanks again for the help!)

I decided to post this because I hope it will help someone and also I haven't attempted anything like this before and I'm happy with the results so far.

(fingers crossed )

October 2023 - I nailed a deer doing 55 (me, not the deer) on a rural road. You would think if I loved this truck, I would have been carrying comprehensive but no. Sometimes being a cheapo means you lose



So insurance would not cover it, and I am forced to decide to just sell it or strap in for a long project. I procrastinated a couple months and then finally decided to give it a shot.

I have access to a garage-for-rent with a tool crib n' stuff, so I got that going for me.

First step: remove the grill - but the poor deer already took care of that for me.

Second step, remove the headlights and side marker lights.



After that: A/C condenser (the system has had a leak for a long time now to the point that the compressor wasn't turning on, so I didn't bother having it evacuated) and busted A/C fluid lines. Then the radiator, fan, and fan clutch. (The fan shroud was completely FUBAR so I removed the remnants.)

Things that attach to the radiator core support: the horn, the hood prop, the main electrical branch for all of the lights (goes along the top), the A/C receiver, and the coolant overflow tank. Then the bumper.



Things that would be in the way when straightening the inner fenders: battery, air box, and windshield washer fluid jar.

Finally, I removed the fenders. One fun surprise, which my Haynes manual did not mention, is that there is a mast for the radio antenna inside the passenger side fender that screws to the the fender with a bezel. The bezel was completely corroded and I tried to drill it out but gave up and just let the fender hang loose by it.

Removing all of that and taking photos to remember what I did took two me (a noob) two solid afternoons.

Next I got a 5/8" drill bit and some WD-40 and slowly drilled out the 24 spot welds that hold the radiator core support to the inner fenders. (Shout out and thank you to Orange Wires Garage on YouTube for their series of videos on repairing the front of a wrecked V6 TRD. Their vids showed me where all of the spot welds are.)



I ordered a replacement core support from Summit Racing. I had my doubts it would fit well enough, having heard some bad stories, but it did fit. It came in a black "EDP coating", which I didn't know was a thing, but it makes sense because it keeps the part rust-free during storage and transport. (It is not primer or paint, you have to scuff it up before applying primer.)

I then had some straightening to do on the inner fenders. They had gotten a bit crumpled up. So I got some advice from you all and ordered some two ton self-tightening clamps from Amazon and a 4 ton come along from Lowes. Hook 'em up to a fork lift's frame and pulled away until things were (mostly) in shape.



Then it took a lot of patience (like 6 hours of trial and error) with a body forming kit to bang out the remaining kinks and make the inner fenders fit to the new core support. Then installed the new water pump, fan clutch, and fan, as well as replaced all of the heater hoses and belts. The heater control valve's inlet and outlet were an ugly, cracked orange color, so a new one of those from Autozone.

Fast forward three months. I did a rattle can paint job on the new core support. I now realize that the 300 grit scuff pad wasn't rough enough to stick the primer I bought because when I went to wet sand the primer, it came clean off anywhere that had a little corner of any sort. I decided to dry sand it instead because that didn't seem to remove the primer too bad after I recoated it. I used Dupli-Color Lunar Mist rattle can for the base coat, and Rustoleum UV resistant clear coat on top of that. I ended up with some scratches from the support falling over on the pavement while drying, but I was so over it at that point (no one will see this thing once the grill is back on, and it is a 24 year old truck after all) so I color coated / clear coated once over each and called it good.

I drilled holes in the lower and upper inner fenders (apron) intending to MIG weld plug weld the new support in. Having only MIG welded once 20+ years ago, I had a little trouble and burned through the apron in a couple spots and then just made fillet welds instead.



So now the core support is on there, and I next need to install the radiator I bought and the new AC condenser, AC lines, and AC receiver. Then the grill, new headlights, side markers, and the fenders.

The OEM grill from Toyota Parts just arrived. I think I'll go cut open the box and make sure it is the right one (I have had all kinds of bad experiences ordering parts in the past from dealerships).



Whew, I think it IS the right thing.

So I don't think I need to buy any more parts now. Total parts, tools, and vehicle storage so far: $2,270.69

IF you made it this far, thanks for reading, and I hope the outline of the process helps you if you find yourself tackling it, too.

 

Wow, what an epic job. And kudos to you for saving your Tacoma. I am excited to see the final result. I have a lot of wild life, including deer where I live, so i am glad I got comprehensive!

 

AIR CONDITIONING REASSEMBLY QUESTIONS-

1. The duct tape that was covering the ends of the A/C compressor lines came off a couple months ago. I should have covered them again but I didn't. Do I need to do anything to get moisture out of the system before I reassemble it? I live near the coast and it gets foggy here.

2. After I reassemble the A/C system, do I just charge it with a can of R134A or do I have to do something else to prevent some kind of damage?

Thanks

 

Sorry for the late response. You can flush the lines with a solvent designed for this task, then blow compressed air through the system to remove the residual solvent. After you have done all of that and reassembled the system, you can hook a vacuum pump up to the low side and leave it running for several hours. There are some good YouTube videos on the subject.

Some people recommend replacing the condenser and evaporator while you are at it because they are relatively cheap and could have contaminants in them. The evaporator could already be saturated with moisture, so it’s good to start fresh with that.

 

Thanks, CenCalWheeler! I actually decided to do the full monty and I bought a flush kit and disassembled all the lines and flushed them. I am replacing the compressor, condenser, evaporator, expansion valve, and receiver-dryer. I bought a vacuum pump and the gauge set, too. Lookin forward to having this marathon done!

 

I love having new tools but usually opt to "rent" for free things I may only use once in a long time through the loaner option at autoparts stores like Advance or O'Reillys that have gauges, solvent kits, and a vaccuum pump. Maybe if the gauges and pump are unused can be returned to save a few $? I know you got a lot already into this repair. Nice work! Hope this helps.

 

I had a fender bender recently too, damage to the radiator core support on the passenger side but luckily it's still in pretty good shape otherwise. Just enough to lock the hood in place. Is it a part that's an absolute pita to replace vs just trying to do some bending on.

 

It depends how dented. You might be able to borrow or rent a cable puller and straighten things out if it’s minor. There are YouTube how-to vids of that. In my case, it was royally jacked up and I had no choice if I wanted to keep driving the rig.
Good luck!