Colorado B.S. Thread

Words like "bozo" I feel are worse insults than the more derogatory ones.. I need to add that to my insults vocab to bring back. Being called something like "ya meatball" hits you differently

 

Yes i used your actuator because i snapped the breather nipple off of mine, both were on great condition.
I tracked down the original problem to the transfer case actuator, it had water in it I was able to clean it up and it worked fine.
Fast forward to a couple weeks ago 4 wheel was fine then i got the dreaded blinking light again checked the transfer case again, i noticed the oring was broke so i took on water again.
This time the front DS is locked so i pretty sure its the front actuator this time.
Tried to get it to unlock by jumping the motor pins, but nada.
So i guess ill have to tear the front apart again

 

I did that a few years back to a friends 1st gen, he said it was the best thing ever. He could shift on the fly and it worked every time. Pulled that actuator off, slid the collar over, sealed the thing, unplugged and taped off the wires. If my Tundra ever fails, it's exactly what I plan on doing, all that shit is spinning anyway

 

That's frustrating. It may still be your tcase actuator causing the problem.

I am no expert on troubleshooting these, but I believe going into or out of 4WD the ecu first shifts the tcase, and then locks/unlocks the ADD.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4wd-system-operation-help-thread.742420/

If you're in 4wd and the the ADD is still locked, then, I would think it's still a problem with the tcase actuator not moving out of 4WD and not telling the ECu to unlock the ADD.

 

My thought exactly..

so this is what i thought too, i tore apart the transfer case actuator off the transfer case to check the shaft position, but it is in 2 wheel position, and the front driveshaft is locked, so the only thing i can think of is the motor that drives the sleeve is locked up.

Not really sure why my front DS is locked and transfer case is in 2 wheel position.
Im hoping it has to do the the front ADD being dead

 

Rant.
Local company I have been doing business with for 14 years sold to a large corporation and now lead times are 2 weeks longer and paperwork has increased.
Use to be,
Send request for quote via email.
Received quote in 3 days.
Customer lag time for approval.... somewhere between an hour and a week...
Approval on my end to the vendor, and product arrives 2-3 weeks later, I install it.
Usual turnaround time is around 3-6 weeks and that's normal. Quick ship used to be an option.

Now,
Send request for quote on THEIR form. More shit to print and file.
Wait 2-3 weeks for quote. wtf.
customer lag time, and complaint about waiting so long for quote.
Approval on my end via email.
3 days later, PDF file from vendor, to be printed, verified and signed, then scanned and attached, etc, etc, etc.
5-8 week turnaround, and in the meantime customer shit is unlocked and vulnerable.
No more quick ship. If my order is behind an order of 50 doors, I gotta wait.

Not gonna fly.
I have 3 doors on order and will not be going back. I'll take the extra 20 minute drive to Loveland and use my other vendor.

That being said, I'd sell out in a heartbeat to the first reasonable 6 figure offer. Buy my business.

 

$001,000 ?

 

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=AmxvLgvc8IE

 

beautiful day today, got a good pond walk in this morning before the days responsibilities went to shit lmao

 

the world of doors is shrinking. Im sure you already know that though. We were getting quotes for our patio door and its ridiculous. All 3 people we used to quote actually use the same manufacturing plant since their other go-tos have been bought out or shut down.

 

You are not wrong, the smaller companies are being absorbed into bigger companies.
I wanna be absorbed too.
Edited for nonsensical rant content.

 

I am a bit baffled too. Even with the front ADD locked, if the tcase was truly in 2wd then you'd be in the exact same situation I am daily driving and that we're talking about with sliding over the ADD and unplugging it. You can't be in 4wd unless the tcase is.

Does the 4wd ecu let you shift the tcase without getting any signal from the ADD or did you have to trick it? Since the tcase is supposed to happen first I can see why it shouldn't matter but usually when one thing isn't plugged in the thing takes a shit.

 

I did nothing to the wiring, just taped it off. His truck had a J shift with a button on the side of the shifter, so the t-case was a mechanical shift. I don't know what the button did.
When that collar in the front is slid to the lock position, the front end acts like a hub locked front axle, meaning everything, spiders, ring & pinion, driveshaft, are all spinning, but not hooked to the t-case until it's shifted into gear.
Mechanical shift will work fine, actuator shift hooked to the ECU, I have no idea, waiting to hear how it turns out for you before I do it.

 

Well i jack up the front the i spin the tire the DS spins..
It sure feels locked in
Pulled off actuator off transfer case
Shift rod is all the way in,2W correct?

.[/QUOTE]

 

Sorry. Brain fart. Was thinking about Beccas situation in a 2nd gen with all electronics and forgetting that first gens are manual shift, with the ADD. Makes sense why it would work, it's the same situation with the FJ case and no computers to deal with. I can't imagine dash lights would work though.

 

That jives. I pull back to get 4wd so that would be shift rod foward whether hand or motor actuated.

I'd get wheels in the air, disconnect drive shafts and start spinning things.

 

They might/should, the switches for the dash lights should be activated by the shift levers in the T-case. I have no idea what the ADD will do. On that 1st gen, the dash lights worked fine, and the front being permalocked didn't do anything.
Now if swapping to a manual T-case, the lights should still work, it's just a 2 wire NO/NC contact, if all the things thread or plug in. Even the early 1st gen had the contact switches for 4-HI and 4-Lo. It's a round threaded thing with a ball at the end that compresses as the shift rail moves.
If not, a voltmeter and a quick check will prolly prove that the wires can be cut and spliced to the donor.

 

So with the 2nd gen with the collar slid over locked,is it the same as this truck?

As in the front DS is locked in when the collar is locked in?

if i manually shift the collar over and unlock will it release my front DS?

 

If that's the problem, then yes.