Colorado B.S. Thread

Thank you

 

I bought the arb! It looks like it was never even on a truck. Paid $850 (there were several other people looking and I didn't want to lose the deal over $50)

 

Good luck! Think positive.

 

Yeah and the 850 is a good price for sure if but looks brand new.

 

Congratulations, you're going to love it. I love mine, but I do wish it had fog light cut outs

 

I got here late for all the rattle can stuff... but I was planning on painting my sliders this weekend and I'm going with rustoleum primer and paint. The BAMF guide said to use a wire wheel, and shows that around the welds... do I need to do that anywhere else or just the weld spots?
I'd like to start building out my tool set, so is there a recommendation on the best drill/[tool name here] that I could get for this job?

 

i wouldn't spend an arm and a leg on a wire wheel, i have an old craftsman plug in drill that i bought some wire wheels at harbor freight and used on things. will take surface rust off hard to reach places quickly though. Perfect for the weld points.



Ive found that the flap wheels on a 4.5 inch angle grinder works way better for stripping paint and cleaning and prepping metal surface for paint. Also bought the flap wheel packs at harbor freight for cheap since your going to use a bunch of em anyways its not worth spending a bunch of money at home depot on em.

what the 4.5 inch sanding flap wheels look like

 

I have a rigid impact and drill set. From Home Depot. I use them a lot any they work well.

 

The more mill scale you can get off of the bare metal, the better the paint will stick. I usually hit all the surfaces with a 80grit sanding/flap wheel for my angle grinder then wire wheel around the welds. They do make etching pre treatments to get rid of the mill scale, I'm not sure what it is called though. Might have been a POR15 product.

I have this angle grinder. http://www.murdochs.com/shop/dewalt-4-1-2-115mm-small-angle-grinder-d28402

I like this kind due to the momentary paddle switch. If you let go of the grinder it shuts off. There is no chance for an accidental run on. I have one with a locking on off switch and had a serious accident therefor I don't recommend them.

This is a bad style. http://www.murdochs.com/shop/dewalt...uard-dwe4011?gclid=CIuW2dWHzLwCFStgMgodrDcAMA

I can show you some nasty pictures of a 1" deep by 4" wide hole in my leg as reference.

 

Absolutely agree. I use the Ridgid drills daily for work. They hold up better than the rest and reasonably priced.

 

I have the 4.5 inch angle grinder that Brian posted with the momentary paddle on off switch and it bugged me at first but then i figured out why its designed that way and now i love that function. If it slips out of your hands and or binds on the metal and gets away from your hands you want it to turn off as soon as possible.

brian, are you talking about the darkish gray stuff on the metal? is that the mill scale?



I had a bunch of that stuff on my sliders before painting primer, just wondering if i should take them down to clean metal at some point in the future. paint seems to be holding up very well on my sliders so far.

 

Awesome, thanks for all the info guys!!

 

Yea, that darker grey stuff is the scale. When the metal cools from being molten the outer layer scales up. I try an get most of it off before I paint, though if it is stuck on good enough to resist the sanding wheel and wire wheel it should not flake off later. I think the paint sticks to it fine, it just flakes off over time.

 

awesome info, thanks buddy!!

 

You should have wiped them down with mineral spirits a few times first to make sure all the grease and crap is off of them before you paint.

 

To get the scale off just tap it with a hammer.

 

When using tools like a grinder with a wire wheel of flap wheel don't forget these!!!!



While Brian puts the grinder through his leg I have had a wire burr stuck in my eye. NO BUENO!!