Colorado B.S. Thread

You can give rocky Mountain driveline a call. They did a great job fixing my driveshaft after I bent the crap out of it. They are on the north side of denver.

 

trust me i agree with your rant I think thats what im gonna do double cardan.I just need some guidance on what to ask for and a place to go Im not well versed in this area and dont want to get taken advantage of so any help is appreciated.
Thanks Brett

 

thanks Leo

 

The new Colorado diesel looks promising.

http://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars/first-drives/a26915/2016-chevrolet-colorado-diesel-first-drive/

 

Wrong thread this is the state of Colorado bull shit thread not bs about the truck

 

Hmm... nearly 4"s of lift in the rear on mine and almost 90k miles with no issues still.

 

Maybe it has something to do with the weight in back.. Mine has no weight in back.Its a take off and 20-30mph no high speed. it was gone for awhile.

 

Geez what a rant!
Nobody cares about your cardigan sweaters old man.

 

Fucking fanbois.

 

I don't know if it will help you or not Rebecca, but there's some information here : http://www.4xshaft.com/

I've heard good things about tom woods

 

This is what 2nd gens have.
please read the last paragraph.

Two Piece Drive Shaft

Our Two Piece Drive Shaft is used in many applications where it would be impossible to run a single drive shaft because of an obstruction. In essence, wherever the drive shaft has to go around a corner. Common applications are the more extreme built Jeeps or rock buggies with an automatic transmission.

We believe our design to be the best for the following reasons:

• Rigid center support bearing. This eliminates lateral flexing of the drive shaft which occurs when using a soft, resilient center support bearing.
  
  
• Each section of the drive shaft has a provision for compression and extension. Regardless of how rigidly you mount your engine to your frame, there will always be some flexing of the frame, motor and mounts. This will equate to a minor length change between the transfer case and the center support bearing. Even if this is only a few thousandths' of an inch, this needs to be accounted for.
  
  
• The spline section between the transfer case and the center support bearing is a 1.375" diameter spline hardened to automotive specifications. All other components are “off the shelf”.
  

Available in 1310, 1350 & 1410 series. Or any combination of these joint sizes.



As shown in the photo, the D2-2nd section can be made with our ultimate travel drive shaft. For applications which require a long stroke in the drive shaft.

We suggest that you obtain the pillow block/center support bearing and mount it to your vehicle then take the appropriate measurements. The bearing used is a standard 1.375" diameter, 2 bolt, pillow block bearing, with a set screw type locking - such as the Browning brand shown at this link.

We have a similar bearing available for $40.00.

The information required to order is the universal joint size required at each location and the length measurements which are the D2-1st, D2-2nd and the D2-OA.

Please keep in mind that with this type of drive shaft, it will be impossible to maintain good drive shaft geometry. You will experience some vibration issues. The amount of vibration cannot be determined prior to installing the drive shaft. Minimal joint angles will net the smoothest operating drive shaft. It is for this reason that we highly recommend this be for low speed applications only such as off road only or in a vehicle with locking hubs so the drive shaft will not be turning at a high rate of speed.

For more information or pricing please feel free to contact us via phone, fax or E-mail.

 

Rebecca, we have exhausted hours and tons of money trying to fix that take off vibe in the tacos with auto trans... it's freakin ridiculous how difficult it is. Toyota engineers were at my shop for a few days trying to fix one truck. Couldn't do it completely.... lifting it only makes it worse. I tell most people, if u lift it... its a characteristic youll have to live with

 

But it sounds like Rebecca's problem is a slow speed "take off" issue rather than a high speed vibe?

Could she be experiencing axle wrap or something?

 

So are you saying adding a double cardan would be a waste of money?

 

No, what they are saying is that this type of design is prone to vibrations when angles start to increase. I've watched her truck leave my driveway more that a few times, axles rides solid. She is a mellow driver too.

That two piece style shaft with the 3 single joints was originally meant to mimic a single, straight driveshaft. At highway speeds or off road, the center joint gives some articulation as the suspension flexes. Most vibes are minimal, at stock height, and most will not notice them, but trust me, they are there.

When you lift it that center joint now has to match both the front joint angle and the rear joint angle in equal but opposite degrees. Ain't gonna happen. This is where all that shimming here and there comes into play is an attempt to make those angles play well with each other. You end up chasing the vibration from one end of the spectrum to the other. You have to decide what you want to live with, take off vibe or 60 mph vibe, for instance.

 

Yes at low speed and take off never felt at high speed.. Stock no vibes at all.. Same rims tires before and aft lift..Same vibe with aal and Dakars original leaves 2+1

 

No he's not saying that. You NEED a double cardan joint on a two piece driveshaft to make it work right.

Hell, I have a double cardan shaft on the front of my Scout, single piece shaft. The double cardan is needed to alleviate extreme driveline angles during full droop as well. It also runs down the interstate vibe free at any speed. The key to these joints is that the dumb end has to be in line with the pinion.

 

ok so can they add a double to my diveshaft where the center u joint is and they would need to shorten the small piece?