Colorado B.S. Thread

Ugh I forgot to multiply by 5 (pieces)

Please take pics of the scraps you have. That could work.

And it’s not containing or withholding grass. It’ll just be containing the decorative landscape rocks for the path. Which I’d want to be 2-3” deep so the 6” stuff is probably what I need. (Assuming I need to dig in what ever I use?)

And here’s the preemptive reply to Marty who is about to chime in with witty repartee about my math skills and cheapness...

 

They're not scraps, they're going to scrap because I didn't think anyone would want it or have use for it. They've been installed for however long and then sitting in the yard for a while after that when they were replaced by timbers which have been there long enough to partially rot. But it's all still flexible and doesn't have any holes in it, it's just pre-aged. Looks like there are 9 pieces out there that are 10' long, so it wouldn't cover all you need. If you cared enough for uniform color, some of that could be cleaned off (ie the white mineral deposits on some of them). But you generally shouldn't see more than the top quarter to half inch of edger on a proper install anyway.



So you'll have rock (or some other kind of mulch) on both sides, just different kinds? If that's the case 4" should be fine. There's different ways you can do your install depending on how much work you want to put into it and drainage. You could just clear off whatever you're covering and put the rock on the surface (over weed barrier of course to at least try and help) and then even with 3" depth on the rock you'd still just pound the edger down an inch or so. Or you can dig in to whatever depth, you just want to make sure you're not creating back drainage towards a house or blocking something off - water is still mostly going to drain along the surface of the dirt, and if it hits edger that's into the ground it will follow that edger. I'd need a better idea of where and what's on either side to offer any specific suggestions.

The last major thing I did, we put in a fairly extensive flagstone/crusherfine path and a 'landscape' border around the entire back yard. The parts that weren't going to be grass we sprayed vegetation kill on, waited a few weeks, then rototilled the surface to be able to level things out and make it easier to pound down the edger. I wanted no part of that, so the owner did the edging install leaving half to an inch above the top of the grass on that side and three inches or so on the rock side (so we didn't really dig down and remove any dirt) and then we came back and put down weed barrier and a layer of crusherfines to set the flagstones in, then put those in (think a halfway cross between a full flagstone path and just a stepping stone path) and got them well seated, then filled in around them and leveled it off with more crusher fines. There's a bit of a drop from the edge of the path to what your foot would compress the grass to, but that was intentional rather than have the path flush/lower than the grass.

 

Thanks. 90' won't be enough though. I appreciate it.

And I'm going to simple on this.

I was envisioning just shaping the edging to define my path. Putting weed fabric down then covering it in 3" of rock... level to the best ability.

On either side of the edging will either be mulching, ground cover or perennial plantings.

 

"Buy our certified used vehicles" on a sticker on the windshield. Eh, no gracias.

 

In that case if it's already there (the stuff on either side) it's up to you on how much the path sticks up or you want to dig down (do think about the ends - if the ground is already flush with a walk or driveway where this new path ties in, you can't exactly pile 3" of rock on top of that and have it work/look nice I've seen people forget about this, or run it up to a gate and then not realize the gate won't open or there's a 'step' at the gate or whatever just runs out under the gate and spreads all over). You can pound it into the ground without doing anything, but there's a reason I wanted no part of the edger install. I'd say 4" should be fine (and less hassle to install if you aren't digging in), but be sure to add some extra to your length calcs - when two pieces meet they should overlap 6-8". You'll also want to have a block of wood to pound on, because you can bend/dent the edge of the stuff and it's very easy to flatten or even cut pins if you pound them too much onto the edge directly as you're staking it in.

 

Anyone interested in meeting for dinner tonight?
My hotel is down near 470 and 85 in Littleton.

 

I would if I was still up there!

 

@Coop68 didn't want me in his club so he stopped by and helped me hang the bumper.

 

Looks so cool. Need to do that someday.

 

I always wanted to do the fenders but never wanted to spend the money.

 

Connected the truck charging system to the Camper.
I checked the RV connection on the Tundra, it shows no voltage with the key off.
But with the engine running, it supplies power to what would normally be the power system to a camp trailer. Cool, the truck supplies it's own battery isolation when the key is off.

I already had this pigtail made several years ago, I used it to power a battery charger off the tail gate when I flew RC helicopters. Now it's used to charge the camper battery.

Routed thru the bumper and out the side.

Drilled a hole thru the battery box. Decided to drill the bottom as it wouldn't show and was easier to seal.Hit it with some spray bed liner to water proof it.


Battery connection.


encased in wire loom.


Painted the inside of the battery box.


Battery installed, and I replaced the plywood base with a nice thick rubber mat to cut down the vibrations to the battery.
The wire with the inline fuse is for a trickle charger.




Battery connection from the underside. It will push up and remain flush if necessary.
the plastic wire loom made for a nice snug fit thru the hole, so I consider it sealed.


plugged into the truck.


engine off voltage from the camper battery. I didn't take a pic of the truck connection with the key off, but the line is dead with the key off.


engine running, charging the camper battery.


Now I can charge the battery with the truck while driving, from a 1.5 amp trickle charger when parked ( I'll just open the battery door for that connection since it'll most likely be parked in the driveway)
and from solar power while in camp. That connection is up front of the camper and runs thru a solar controller.

I'll still install a converter/charger soon so I can charge and run everything from shore power when needed. The converters usually supply 25-30 amps and have individual 12vdc circuits for the lights, heater, water pump etc.. with fused connections.

 

Thought I'd post my finished rear high clearance bumper with tire carrier. Work was done by Ryan Ahls in colorado springs

 

Gotta love RV living! Wish I would have skipped solar all together. Maybe I will get more use out of the solar 2nd part of the trip where The temps are cooling off and I don't need the AC. Still need a bigger battery or two.

 

Do you run a generator at all?
And is your lighting led? That alone makes a huge difference in battery consumption.
Either way, AC units are extremely power hungry.

 

Yeah, we have a 2400w generator. Been running it to power the AC which in turn charges our battery for the night so the solar isn't needed. All LED lighting, it's the furnace that sucks the power at night. Wouldn't need the furnace as much but we have the 1 year old that acts as our low temp alarm at anything less than 68 degrees.

 

Had a good morning sighting in a new scope Then came home and rotated my tires with a little help

 

I used this bender board from pioneer sand to put an edge around my yard.
https://www.pioneersand.com/products/garden_borders_edging/edging

It installs very similar to metal edging but uses j stakes to hold it in place. It works great, looks good and is safe for kids and dogs.

 

Anyone have go to place in Denver areas for professional Loctite? Only place I can think of is grainger. Looking for Loctite 5570

 

Pretty Sure Fastenal carries it too.

 

I have that in the backyard between the grass and mulch. It’s okay and works fine but I’m always having to hammer in the spikes and add more so it stays in place.

But this is definitely an option.