Complete Frame Replacement

I purchased my 2010 Tacoma Trd sport new and it currently has 173,000 miles on it. I had it into the service department a few years back for the frame inspection recall at which time they treated the frame and said it was fine. Since then I generally once a year crawl under and scrape any rusty areas and paint them with a rust converter which has kept my frame looking pretty much like new. While doing it this year I found a large bubble on the passenger side cab mount, after hitting it a few times with the putty knife a chunk of it fell out which left a hole through the cab mount.
After seeing the extent of the rust involving the cab mount I called my local service department to see if it might still be covered by the recall. They set up an appointment for me to bring it in so they could inspect it again and after the inspection they inform me that they would definitely be replacing the entire frame per the recall. What other components should I replace while it is completely disassembled? Service department said there would be no additional charge reinstalling any new parts that I provide so it only makes since to replace as much as possible during this repair. My truck still looks like new inside and out and I have no desire to get rid of it.

 

Before doing anything find out just all what new parts come with the frame swap.

Some dealers include very many new parts with the new frame others seem to bill the owner for any new parts installed.

Get it in writing.

 

Hello, When i had my frame replaced it came with new lower control arms and lower ball joints, new brake and fuel lines. I replaced the gas tank straps, the parking brake cables, all fluids, spark plugs and the serpentine belt and all the idlers. I gave the tech three cans of fluid film and asked him to spray in places that wouldn't be accessible once the body and box were put on the new frame. I had trouble with the 4X4 system after the swap and after a trying a lot of different things it turned out to be corrosion on the pins on the connector that plugs into the computer behind the glove box. When your truck is disassembled all the plugs are disconnected and pulled through the fire wall, if they’re not careful dirt and or water from laying around the the shop can get in the plugs, thats what happened to me so if you get gremlin like troubles I’d suggest looking there first before replacing parts. The dealer convinced me to also replace my steering rack as up here in Canada with all the salt on the roads they corrode and its way easier to change out without anything in the way. Love my truck and am impressed with how Toyota stands behind their product, warranting what was at the time 12 year old truck with 130,000 miles on it.

 

Thanks for the great info! I will plan on doing the same!

 

If you are still on then original, I recommend the power steering rack and intermediate steering shaft. Recommend the radiator and heater hoses too.

 

Just had mine done summer 2021. It included brake lines, LCAs, leaf springs. I paid for new shocks/springs as well. They did replace the coolant as I was told.

Mine is a 2010 and had 117K at the time.

 

@7fingers where are you from good sir?

 

Here's the pdf that includes a list of what they will replace. It does not cover everything but most of everything. Remember, you got a rusty bucket of bolts, chances are there will be plenty of broken bolts, rounded heads, broken clips, and dry rotted items that will need to be replaced.

 

Thanks!! This was very helpful!

 

Im from Ohio.

 

My truck is really in outstanding condition considering the miles with only very minor frame rust and absolutely no body rust. The worst thing on the truck is the hitch which will be replaced when the frame is changed. Here are a few pics of the condition.

 

doesn't look too bad but there's a reason there's a long list of covered replacement parts. Stuff isn't going to survive being removed and reinstalled lol I would suggest making sure to let the dealership know to contact you if they need to replace certain parts that aren't covered and to have your approval for anything surpassing $100-400 or whatever. Not too long ago there was a dude that had a dealership go wild and install a couple grand of parts not covered by the frame warranty campaign without (according to the OP) prior approval. So just be safe and get that in writing, along with keeping notes of any phone calls for any additional approvals.

Also, this is great time to replace/upgrade anything else you have been wanting to do. A lot of folks have provided new shocks/assembled coilovers to the dealership and had them installed free of charge. After all, the labor is included in the warranty coverage.

 

Yup, bought the shocks/springs right from Toyota while it was there.

 

Definitely looks like a NE truck underneath..but those pics it looks sweet, you'll get at least 10 more years after this job is done.

 

I thought they stopped the frame replacement a couple years ago. I called Toyota Canada a few years ago and they told me to go fukc myself . Maybe a little nicer but that was the jist of the conversation.

 

Hmmm....I looked up the service records for my truck and apparently the previous owner was approved for a frame replacement in 2017 but did not have it done:
05-10 TAC FRAME INSP ~|~INSPECT VEHICLE FOR RUST PERFORATION. ~|~NO RUST PERFORATION FOUND. ~|~2005-2008 RUST PERFORATION FOUND AWAITING FRAME REPLACEMENT. ZH6404 0.5. . .

Not sure, but I'd guess Toyota won't do anything now, since it was approved five years ago.

 

I had my steering rack done during the replacement. No extra labor cost, just got shafted on the cost of the rack. It was leaking though and I had been meaning to do it, so it was at least as good of a time as possible to replace it. Everything else was totally solid when my '06 went in.

 

Toyota replied to my inquiry (on a weekend, too! I'm impressed), but they will not replace the frame since it's outside of the extended warranty period.
Not too worried about it, as I can keep the rust at bay since I know about it. If it gets to where it's unsafe, I'll go with Safe-T-Cap and reinforce it.