Complete TPMS Disable Guide

Many thanks, @justinhw
The mod worked on mine well. Instead of cutting wires, i removed the said pins from the connector bodies, insulated the one for power (driver side), pulled the blue wire pin on the passenger side, and grounded it via a small fuse. insulated everything, tucked it all away, and reassembled the trims.

Worked like a charm!

Then next day, getting new tires, the shop said they overhaul all the sensors for free with purchase of four tires... so while waiting for the mounting/balancing, i wondered if i just wasted a few hours last night messing with those stubborn little connectors... but when i picked up the truck, the tech said, "oh we just replace the washers and seals on the stems". wtf?!

So, the fix lives on!

Again, thanks OP! and thank you TW!

 

So all you did was just

Pull the driver side power one out.

Pull the passanger blue wire and ground it.

Right?

 

yep. Pretty much. Insulated it all with some shrink tubing, and tidied up the bundles back in their stock places. I did not use any solder or crimps on the blue wire, but just threaded the grounding extension through the pin, wrapped it around it tight and then double-shrunk tubing on it. This way the fix is easily reversible.

I will dig out some of the photos i shot, but that's really it. Worked as advertised.

Sorry for the late reply, i was out of comm for a while.

 

@Zuba987

 

Can someone tell me how to get the cluster out of the dash on a 09 Tacoma access

 

Just did this on a 15' 2.7li. 2 wheel drive and it worked like a charm. The wires were a little different from your picture on the TPMS side. Top wires were blue, green and a black. The blue 5 volt wire was the same though. Thank you!

 

I tried this fix. I got the blinking TPMS light to go off. However, when I test drove the truck, I noticed that it was idling at a lower RPM than it normally does (don't remember specifically what RPM). When the truck's engine got up to temp, the RPMs @ idle dropped to 400 and the truck wanted to stall out.

Luckily, I was just around the block and was able to nurse it back home. I disconnected the battery, reconnected all the wires (had used quick-disconnects as recommended by OP), reconnected the battery, and the engine's RPMs seemed normal at idle and while cruising. Of course, the TPMS light is back blinking again.

Does anyone know what went wrong? I have a 2006 Tacoma regular cab w/ the 2.7L + 5 speed manual transmission.

I attached three pictures:
-picture 1: junction block DC-DA (cut green wire, top row, 4th from the right)
-picture 2: wiring harness IJ1 (grounded blue wire at to of harness. the wire next to it was green/yellow-not solid green as OP stated)
-picture 3: close up of grounding for blue wire

edit: forgot to mention i wired a 2 amp in-line fuse before the ground for safety.

 

I know it was an old post, but FYI if anyone comes across this. When you disconnect the battery, the truck should actually idle higher than normal until it re-learns your throttling manners. I'm guessing the truck was idling normal, but @oh6_taco wasn't used to it.

 

subd! really need to do this after having this light on for years and years lol great write up and helpful insights through out the thread.

 

Going to attempt this tomorrow! Going to add male/female connectors just in case I ever decide to put stock wheels again.

 

I might try this mod tomorrow with my ‘11. Will post back if I do. Still not 100% sure if I’m supposed to find a 12v or 5v source fo the blue wire. I do not plan on disabling the TPMS completely, just turning the light off.

 

Did this mod successfully. I did not do the first part of cutting power to the TPMS, only shutting off the light. The wires aren’t exactly as the pictures the OP showed for my 2010. The blue wire on the right side kick panel is though. Here’s what they look like for my truck
For my truck I had to connect the blue wire to a 12v source, not ground. I used a wire that another member did. Yellow wire to the right of the blower motor. That’s a switched power. You can see my bullet terminal connectors on the right and the yellow wire I used, it’s the one on the top left that goes into that black connector. You can see my blue wire looped up there too.



That’s it. Light off.

 

I just opened up the instrument panel and put some tape over the LED. You can also desolder it. Very easy and not destructive if you don't want to be.
While I was in there, I removed the speaker that beeps when your seatbelt is off.

 

Worked great on my 06 with some trial and error. Maybe this clarification has already been discussed but I haven’t read the rest of the thread. On the IJ1 connector on the passenger side you only need to ground the blue wire, the OP Was a little confusing to me on that point. The side of the blue wire that needs to be grounded is the harness side (female end of the connector [small connector]. On my 06 running that wire to power did not work, it must be grounded. Also, on my Sport (tow package)the driver side connector had a lot more wires than to OP’s did and Slot for slot, the colors were different . Stick to top row, 4th from right.

 

Mine magically stopped being on today after blinking for years and then being sold for a few months.

 

Where's the other end of the red wire going?

 

I was reading this thread because the OP's right side isn't like mine, I have a 2011. Now I'll check it against your's since it's much closer in age.

EDIT, this worked on my 2011. The connector was taped to the large bundle, on the forward side. I had 5 wires in the connector, black, blue, green, white and white/ black. The last two may be close, dont remember, they are light colored.

I cut to blue between black and green. connector side got switch +12 volts, left the other side unterminated.

Light is off, I'm happy

 

Hi,
I have a 2006. I pulled the plug out of the TPMS module, stuck a 1/4watt 470Ω resistor in the ends of the plug from the blue wire to the tan wire (it was grounded) and electrical taped over the plug. 470Ω turned the light off and it has stayed off. I tried a couple of higher Ω resistors but they did not turn off the light. Current was only a couple of milliamp if I remember right.

 

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but is there not a way to do this via an OBDII app? I did it with ForScan on my daughter's Ford. You'd think there's a way to do it on a 'yota. But I can't seem to find anything on the goog.

 

I did the same MOD and my Airbag light stays on.