Composite + 80/20 Wedge Camper Build

https://www.mcmaster.com/93085K41/ paired with the push in bulb might work well. This could receive it so there's 3 different bulbs and less bulk

 

So much build inspiration here. Fantastic work, thank you for posting!!

 

Great work! Thank you for so much detailed information! Did I miss the space frame dimensions for the 3rd gen? I know Ripcord had his data but thought the 3rd gen were different?

Thank you!!

 

Funny you mention that. It didn’t occur to me until I was starting my design/build that his truck was older and I was unsure is the dimensions were the same as the current trucks.

My space frame outside dimensions are:
Lower rectangular frame (right angles) 63”L x 61.5”W
Upper rectangle frame (right angles) 61.5”L x 53.25”W
Overall height 21.5”H but remember I have 0.5” plastic caps on the bed that I made so if you were to drop it onto the metal of the bed with a seal maybe make it 22.0”H overall.
Finished assembly sets back from window 1.0” (so there is 1.0” of space between window and panel of camper).
Note how I secure the frame using the existing tonneau cover locations.
The frames are canted with the front angle aligning off the center of the back window so you basically take a straight edge against the back window and drop then end onto the bed rail, let it touch the center of the window, then compare that that to a right angle off the bed rail (like using a framing square) and that is the fwd angle. I think the fwd slant came out to 6deg on the front and 13deg on the back. If you look, the back angle is the same angle as the taillight so maintains Feng shui look!

oh, I should mention. IMO a wooden space frame fixture is not necessary. If I build a 2nd one I would simply weld the two rectangular tubing (upper and lower frames) on a flat surface with a framing square (like on the garage floor) then make the 4 vertical pieces out of wood, clamp that together and set on the truck to check and maybe make some templates. Many ways to do it. Then I would cut the verticals, clamp & tack weld that all together, check on truck, and final weld. For the wooden fixture all you really need is a couple small simple wooden like sawhorses from scraps to hold the top frame square in the air while you weld the lower frame sitting on the garage floor.

 

Haha thanks again!! I figured if I didn't have any numbers I would just measure tack it together and keep fitting it until it was right but I definitely appreciate your numbers. I consider making a box with no taper but I do love the Feng you've built inThanks for your tip as well ..I'll probably most likely build both sections and go slowly with it instead of building an all out fixture.
Much appreciated !!!

 

I see from your build & setup photos you also have a dog you camp with, so I'd like to ask - does the dog also sleep in the elevated bed in the wedge camper? Or is it too difficult to get them in and out of the bed, and do they just sleep on the bottom?

I am just in the planning stages of things, but I would love to build a wedge camper for my truck. It would be used to sleep myself & my fiancée, with one dog for now, potentially another in the foreseeable future.

Thanks!

 

You will love it. For the most part this is a great design although the one thing that needs to be rethought is the max-metal door panels. That material is ok but there is bound to be something more durable and stiffer on the market.

The dog sleeps in the truck bed (downstairs) but depending on how heavy your dog is you could lift them up into the upstairs no problem but they probably couldn’t jump up.

 

Departing Soda Springs, CA in a snow storm.
The led strip door lights are awesome! Highly recommended. Simple Amazon under cabinet 12V setup. All of that (minus headlights) is from the doors.

 

I wonder how feasible it would be to add a window to the rear panel?
That is really my only complaint with the topper on my truck currently. No visibility out of the rear. It's nice and private inside, but extra visibility would certainly be nice.

 

Feasible yes. I am probably going to add a window behind the cab in the Maxmetal and one on the rear door. The one for the maxmetal is easy in that you use that extruded rubber that has a slot on both sides, one of the metal thickness and other the thickness of the glass you use (about 3/16” I guess).

For mine on the back, I may go with the same setup but the composite door in my case is 0.4” thick so would need to find the right size rubber seal. If not, maybe find a standard size like for an RV or camper that is in an alum frame and mount that.

It is way less expensive to look for windows that are pre-made and I hope to do that sometime.

 

Hell of a camper build you got here!

 

Thank you for your write up sir. I have taken many pointers from your build to influence mine. An observation I've made is your side panel latches are running horizontally and latching to a small metal flange welded to the space frame. I love the cohesiveness of all the panels running latches horizontally. Many other builders, Go Fast included, run the side panel latches vertically to lock onto the space frame. My question to you is do you see any draw back from running the side panel hinges horizontally, putting them a little higher on the panel versus a little lower on the panel and contacting the bottom rail of the space frame? I'm wondering if elevating them slightly on the panel has any effect on how sealed the panel will be at the bottom where it contacts the space frame. I assume the carbon panels like yours are much stiffer and probably doesn't get effected as much as one of the composite panels with some flex to them. I will personally be using some 1/8" aluminum panels.

 

Good question. When I designed it the horizontal direction just felt more natural in that the arms on the inside of the latches (part with the adjustment bolt) swing quite a bit. The inside arc of that swing I wanted to make sure it had plenty of room. If I ran it vertically, the arc would be close to the vertical tubes of the space frame and I probably would need even larger tabs for clearance so I settled on horizontal, or I would have had to weld tabs on the lower tubes as my latches were not long enough to reach behind the tube. Plus at the rear there is no lower tube.

Where I could have done better, the side and rear latches are the same vertical distance from the door lower edge meaning, the latch pads bolt on the inside are very close to one another and almost hit. I should have made the tabs/latches on the side and the rear about 0.5” offset in height from one another.

I don’t think it is a problem mounting the side latches vertically but in my case, I would have the tabs protruding from the LH and RH bottom tubes where they may catch bags and whatnot when you load/unload from the side. By mounting the latches horizontally with the tabs on the vertical post it is out of the way.

2nd best door design as far as I see it:
If I did not have the composite panels I too would use a .125” aluminum door, which is a good choice provided it is not annealed (T3, T4 or T6 hardness would work). No way would I make the doors from Max Metal. I am having success with it in the no-contact areas where I used it but I think they have poor durability, very low stiffness and I am pretty sure the aluminum is too soft and would gouge like crazy (all while being unrepairable).

So with .125” hard sheet for a door, I would stiffen it with like an aluminum U-channel or a L-angle just inside of the horizontal and vertical tubes of the space frame, maybe about 0.5” clearance from lifters/latches/tubes/hinges/etc. I would mount the latches horizontally in a similar position to mine, with/without tabs (that is dependent on the latch reach), and I would also do this:

1. Use a fay sealant between the stiffening angles and the aluminum panel, something strong like polysulfide or polyurethane.

2. Attach the stiffeners with soft solid aluminum rivets (look for alloy 1100 which is basically a pure aluminum rivet) about every 3.0”. You can hit them with a hammer and buck with a block of steel and if you want to get fancy, buy a rivet set and all that. Aluminum sheet is expensive so I would take the time to do this right.

3. Preload the bottom of the doors panels (meaning, at rest, the lower edge would have a bit of a bow out at the front/back when unlatched. So before you drill/attach the stiffeners (maybe buy a few few Clecos to do this) start at the center. Drill/clamp the stiffener. With the panel bowed a little, work your way towards the latches. Drill it all, add sealant and rivet it all together. This way, you can have a door with only two latches horizontally out at the ends but the panel will be nice and tight against the seal at the center when latched (instead of bowing out from the seal). Hope that helps!

 

Hello,
Awesome snow picture last winter what a magical spot! Can I ask your opinion on building a space frame with 8020? How do you feel about strength and building a canted frame (as you did with your frame)? I came across an individual on the web (kitcamper I think it was) that built one and it looks so much easier than welding a steel frame and quieter. I live a congested neighborhood
Thanks in advance, Nelson

 

Thanks and this sort of a project is all about trade offs. The canted look for me was a must and yea, you could certainly just cut your 80/20 stock and other parts at non-right angles but would probably need to make gussets as most the pre-fab 80/20 connectors are made for right angles. The rear is 13 deg fwd and the front/sides are 6 deg fwd/in I think. Right angles for the side rake look a bit like a garden shed to me but Kit Camper Guy by using graphics on the side make it look ok.

The Kit Camper guy, yes I have seen his video. 80/20 has several versions and the lightweight versions are plenty strong probably. I really like the added space of his design by the top going up and not a wedge. That is a major bonus to that design and I am very seriously considering rebuilding mine with a new tent to goes straight up, or at least a foot in the front. The roof is fine for me and I like how sturdy it is in the wind but the GF needs more vertical room to be happy when sleeping the way it is now.

You will probably have to make cuts with a Skillsaw and a metal cutting blade so plan on that and know that if it is canted many of the 90-deg connectors won’t work, but you could probably fab connectors. Depends on your comfort/tools. Make simple paper/wood templates and mock-ups first to see how it would work.

 

Thanks so much for the great info. I feel a little bit better and reassured that I wouldn't be making a mistake with 80/20. Yes I like his top as well It's huge but I can appreciate the roof pitch of your design especially in heavy rains/ snow and wind
The template making and the mockup is half the fun of the build!
Thanks again

 

Flagstaff AZ after a rainy night.

2 years and still going strong!

 

I noticed you don't run any braces on the sides of the topper unlike the gfc and the ripcord. This would be much preferred, especially on my short bed. Have you had any issues without them? Or did you do anything else structurally to compensate? It's also a really clever idea with the starboard. I saw it was mounted with screws, but did you drill any holes in the frame or use existing holes?

 

I have had mine built for over a year and have had zero issues without the extra supports. Wife and I slept up top for 2months straight without issue. The additional supports just get in the way imo. I have also drilled some extra 1/8" holes in them with self taps and again, zero structural issues.

 

The frame is just butt/fillet welded as shown with diagonals in the front only, same material as rest of the frame, and upper corner gussets from 3/16” cold rolled steel water jet cut. That’s it. There is a small 1/4” rod at the top rear corner for hooks, maybe adds a bit of stiffness, but the frame is plenty stiff with no side braces. Like the day I built it. No side supports that would get in the way of the door opening.

If I used bolted corner frame connections instead of welded, I would probably consider a full diagonal on the sides or maybe even two of them.

The only place I used MaxMetal was over the cab (t-nuts) and the front of the frame behind the rear window. Those are attached with 1/8” self-tapping screws directly into the frame.