Comprehensive 5-lug 2nd gen lowering info.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/5lug-coilovers.541417/#post-17497923
Check this post . About xrunner

 

10-4, appreciate your help brother. Sounds like I'm going to shoot for 2 inch blocks, viking shocks, and some coilovers.

 

*I* would remove the brackets that are riveted to the frame that the bump stop bolts to. Trust me you will destroy the bracket/s unless you know someone really good with a plasma cutter. The bracket/s can be purchased new if they are destroyed. Lower the truck to where and how you want. Read how to measure for shocks. Now the hard part load the bed with enough weight so the frame is almost hitting the rear differential then measure for the shocks. If memory serves me right the right side will be about 5/8 to 3/4” longer. You want to measure for collapsed length on the rear as you’re going to most likely collapse the shocks then get Air Borne. Well, I don’t know you, but measure for the one you’re going to most likely do. Just because the rear shocks are going to have to be short so the shocks will have less travel. Viking has more lengths to choose from. Also when I jack my truck up I raise it slowly. Plus look far right at the way I did my bump stops. The hard foam bump stops are better. I purchased longer foam stops then cut and grind them to the length to keep from metal to metal contact. Believe it or not the Mazda Miata actually uses their bump stops for part of the spring rates and they are used in “Cornering” along with the sway-bars. They ride with no weight in the car about 3/8 to a 1/2” off the bump stops. I used to install and setup suspension in these cars for side work.

 

@hayrider2.0 How did you come to the conclusion that the welded notch is stronger? I understand some frame material is weakened when welded like this, but it seems like it's newer trucks that have that issue.

 

Hmmm…
6 bolts and with sharp right angles that cause stress risers / cracks or welded completely ALL the way around. The welds are welded on the bottom of the factory C channel. With just 6 bolts the bottom of the C channel is not even connected any longer. Now you tell me what going to be stronger? There are also owners who have posted pictures of the frame cracking from this piece being added / bolted in. But you are free to make your own decision.

 

Anyone got a good online source for slightly longer u-bolts for our 5-lug? Also, does anyone know the dimensions of the stock u-bolt?

I took measurements on mine but the width seems an odd measure (3 3/8”) so just wanted some confirmation.

 

Hawaii spring supply makes custom u bolts . Try contacting them . Dont know about metric sizes though.

 

Dorman in link below, they are 9/16-18 x 3-3/8 x length / ??. Trust me I ordered many sizes until I found the size. It’s screwy trying to measure U-bolts…. Be nice if someone could make this info permanently available / sticky as I searched here for hours. Oh, did you find a rear 3rd member? Good luck!!
*Edit* updated better link and if you think you need 8 5/8” let me know because I have 4 new ones still in the package. Too long for my needs…

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/...dAttr_10648=/attributes/prodAttr_10648/192623

 

Thanks for the link and confirming the width. I haven’t gotten a new 3rd member yet; most want to sell the entire axle but I don’t have the storage space for it.

 

https://www.hawaiispringsupply.com/product-line/2772727
This link shows the measurements . Not sure if any help

 

Just swapped xrunner shocks for 4600, ride comfort is much better. Just gotta change out the rear now. Waiting on a set of qa1’s. what’s a good comfort setting?


(Xrunner on the left)

 

Interesting! Nice to see them side by side for comparison; approximately how much longer is the 4600? Glad it worked out though for a better ride.

For the QA1 setting, I think I was at 4 or 5 clicks but I can’t remember for sure. I used to let the truck chug along at parking lot speed in first gear to help get the front and back balanced with each other. If I could drink coffee without spilling it, it was good to go, lol.

 

Not much longer, an 1” maybe just eyeballing it. I gotta try the coffee method

 

Ok Guys!!
I’ve gotten several requests for information on what I did to the SOS / Tundra Racing lower spring perches / mounts. So hopefully all the pictures will explain better…. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
On the left is the I.D. of the spring mount.

Again on the left is the I.D. I then had the bottom of the mount machine out to. This keeps the mount from sliding into the treads on the coil-over shocks. With the suspension moving it will / would force the mount against the treads on the shock body. If the aluminum rubbed together long enough this could eventually rub a hole in the side of the shock body.
Aluminum against aluminum is not a good idea.

This is how deep I had my friend machine out the bottom of the mount. *I* then had them powder coated to help keep the aluminum from corroding from maybe trapping water. You could use grease.

For the Front shocks I used Vicking # C-208 these are just a tad shorter than the shocks others are using. For the rear shocks it depends on how you have the back setup with all spring, spring & block or all block and then is the frame notched or not? That’s on you guys but make sure the shocks don’t bottom out on themselves‼️ Bottoming out on the shock body will KILL the shock/s!



*EDIT*
Now this is what I purchased other than the mounts above‼️
NOW YOU ARE 101% RESPONSIBLE FOR MEASURING FOR YOUR OWN REAR SHOCKS‼️ I refuse to give advice on shock lengths as I am not you and I can’t measure your truck / Tacoma!!!
The rear of my setup is 3rd gen. 6 lug leafs, flat 2” CNC aluminum blocks with notches welded 100% in place‼️ I will will never get my truck airborne other than using a floor jack. You F**k Up your rear shocks that’s on you‼️
AGAIN Read the bold print above!!!

 

These look nice. Does anyone know what the metal sleeves are for?

 

For the bottom bushing shock bolt. The shocks are universal so it depends on the size of the bolt mounting to the vehicle. Now don’t quote me but the Tacoma is 9/16 / 14mm from what I remember. If you use a metal sleeve put a light layer of grease around the bolt so they don’t corrode and weld themselves together.

 

Didn’t need the sleeves

 

Does anyone know if xii still fulfilling orders and selling off old stock? Tried to email but got no reply.
Or are the qa1 they they sell/sold any different than the ts703? Summit has them on sale right now for $393 to my doorstep.

 

Dang, the original post is a gem of info... too bad almost all the lower kits listed no longer exist. It's almost 2025 and the DJM lowering kit on my 2013 Tacoma base model is looking really bad as Wisconsin's salted roads have not been kind to them. I had considered going back to OEM control arms and perhaps a less aggressive drop like the "OS drop kit from TundraRacing.com kit", but that kit obviously doesn't exist anymore. Bummer.