Compression test - White smoke *Cracked head*

Well this is what I’m seeing so far:
Reman Heads ~$1000-2000 depending on company
Gasket kit ~$400-600
TBelt kit ~ $200
So all in $1600-2800 in parts just to do cylinder heads not touching anything else. Wouldn’t really want to fully cheap out on it so would probably be on the higher end of the range.

Higher mileage (150k+) used USDM engine $1000-2000
Ebay JDM engine $2200-3500
Local JDM engine $3200
Rebuilt Sunwest Long block $3200 (unknown lead)
Rebuilt yota1 long block $4500 (6mo lead)
Rebuilt Yotashop long block $6200

 

Which way you leaning?

Positive note? In six months, the weather will be perfect for wrenching on your truck outside or in the shop!

 

SunWest would be really good if I could actually get the motor to my house for 3200, but with freight prices, tax and $700 core its up at $5000 delivered. Probably wont get anything back from the core after paying the freight to send the core back.
Have to take all that into account with the other rebuilt options as well, and tack on an extra nearly $1500+ to all the prices I had found..

Leaning towards a local JDM that I can go check out before I buy, and pick it up directly. That also means I can kind of ride out this engine till it really blows without worrying about maintaining a healthy block.

Yeah here in Phoenix I've only got a couple months of decent weather left before summer hits and working on the truck will be unbearable. So either got to do it now or in like 6-7 months.

 

That's a tough decision. Would you be doing all the work yourself? Edit- I see you answered that in the post above.

I was reliant on a shop to do the repair on my truck, so not only expense, but time line had be be evaluated. At that time, labor rates were a little lower than today and Yota1 had reman heads available for around $700 a piece. I see that's no longer the case. All in it was right under $4k parts and labor. (Labor was based on book time of 12 or 13 hours). A rebuilt engine from a known reliable source would have been double the parts price and I think I was told labor cost would have been the same if not more....plus the eta and logistics involved with an engine.

If I had to do it again today, I'm not sure what choice I would make. With how high the cost of parts and labor have climbed, a 3rd option would probably be considered.

 

Where are you located? If you are thinking about buying a rebuilt motor, Jim at 22reperfomance is the best yota machine shop I have ever dealt with. Dude is a master and has the highest standards I have ever seen. You will have to call and talk to him about doing a 3.4, but I am pretty sure he has done them before. I know he has done 2rz/3rz

 

So heres my cheaping-out idea..

Heads: 900
https://www.headsonly.com/product/toyota-tacoma-5vzfe-3-4-rebuilt-cylinder-head
OEM Gasket kit: $400
https://www.yotashop.com/gasket-kit...d-gasket-replacement-kit-2000-2004-kit-1020b/
Asin TBelt kit: 200

$195 AISIN TKT-025 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump - Compatible with Select Toyota 4Runner, T100, Tacoma, Tundra

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EEYWYE?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

All in at $1500 + tax/shipping.

Kind of figuring why bother getting nicer quality heads if the block already has nearly 300k on it anyway.

Aisin Tbelt kit and OEM gaskets, cheapest rebuilt heads.. How bad of an idea is this?

Could save another couple hundred going aftermarket on the gaskets, not sure about that.. Also thinking maybe a cheap gasket kit for all the little things but picking up just individual OEM MLS head gaskets. I did do valve cover gaskets all OEM just a month ago, not sure if those are alright to be reused after valve cover removal?

Heads seems like a job that I can figure out over a couple weeks, a full engine swap feels like a bit too much for me.. Plus it'd require a few hundred in new tools I probably wont use again, and don’t really have the space for, like a hoist.

 

I'm not gonna act like i know 5vz's like I understand 3rz's. I'm 100% an amateur, but I can pull and replace a 3rz much faster than i can replace the cylinder head. Although, I had a lot more fun replacing the cylinder head. It's much more detail oriented, and each step matters.

Sit down, crack open a cold one and watch each of these series, see what you are more comfortable with, Timmy the toolman is a stud. If you're anything like me, your mind is going to change 10 more times before pulling the trigger.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EtZnqzJhI4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSFpwnCuBDk

 

Rebuilt heads at this place for $450

https://www.headsonly.com/product/toyota-tacoma-5vzfe-3-4-rebuilt-cylinder-head

 

IF I was a betting man, and had 300k on current block....

these are the guys I'd go with.........mostly because of the warranty.

They even have free shipping thru end of February.....

Toyota 5VZF-E 3.4L V6 Remanufactured Engine - 8/94-8/04 - Powertrain Products

 

I wouldn't go with anything that isn't rebuilt. You have no way of knowing that the block your getting is better than the one you have, you just have to hope that it isn't neglected. The JDM engines might not be plug and play, I know the 3rz JDM engines lack emissions stuff that you need to swap over, this could be the same for the 5vz.

I don't think you need to worry about the bottom end, the compression was healthy, and unlike the heads the block is iron and I've heard of them going much further. Seems like the highest compression 5vz engines were around 200-220, and the minimum is 127, so your block is closer to a new engine.

But I can see the reasoning for getting a rebuilt engine if it's not much more than new heads. You will have to remove the engine from the vehicle, and that will cost more money in labor. If you do go for the short block, try to get a discount since you can give them your old block which is definitely rebuildable and worth something to them. Do your research on the rebuilder obviously, a warranty is good, but not having to use it is even better.

 

Time623
I’m going to ‘drop by’ an engine builder’s shop sometime this week that I know
I will ask him:
300k, compression ratings u posted, and a cracked head….get his opinion on the bottom end and maybe how to test
Will report

Lmk if have any other Q’s to ask him

 

That would be great, definitely open to hearing more opinions.
It is a second vehicle for me, so mileage per year is really low. Its only been about 3k/mi a year for the past few years.
I feel like that's relevant, since its not like I will be putting 20k miles a year on the 300k mile block.

 

Good morning all,

OP, read all your posts and symptoms your having and it all was exact same as my '02 had. I kept driving it till I began to lose a lot of power and knew something was definitely wrong. I had no other choice but to buy my new to me '18 Tundra and let my Taco become my project truck. I'm not a master mechanic but I know how to watch and follow videos and Tims 7pt YT videos are gold. Having the right tools and endless amount of time are key.

I'm S/C'd with 130k on my engine. I abused and drove my truck like I stole it. I've kind of been documenting the entire job on my IG but here are a few pictures I've snapped along the course. I'm definitely taking my time and also using this job to replace LOTS of other parts and components with upgrades or just parts that have been overdue for changing; oh and CLEANING!. My situation ended up being a crack in #3, pulled the heads off and found a pool of coolant in cyl3. I'm going to go with Yota1 for my rebuilt replacement. I don't think one can go wrong with Yota1. I'm also considering my transmission as well but we'll see, maybe later down the road. And now for a few of many many pictures... Good luck btw! As one member said, it definitely is a really fun project to DIY! Just have fun with it and pace yourself..

I'm attached to my truck, I'm the original owner so putting only the best into it to me is my only option.

 

Just curious, maybe I misunderstood you, but why is it that you think the crack between the intake and exhaust valve introduced coolant to the cylinder? I had at least a dozen cracks combined between both heads but no coolant in the cylinders.

 

My crack is in the same location, even down to the same cylinder and it seems to be what is introducing coolant into my cylinder.
While I have no idea the internal design of the head, and admittedly limited general knowledge of engines, I would think there is a coolant passage inside the head on the other side of the crack? Maybe some cracks just don't reach all the way to the passage, or only allow such a small amount of coolant through you just don't notice.

In one of Timmys videos, the machinist he was working said he commonly sees cracks in these 5vz heads. I think they found a crack in nearly every cylinder, but not all of them were big enough to cause any leakage.
He starts talking about it at 13 minutes into part 4 of the head gasket repair video.
https://youtu.be/rFPHrASrCUM?si=EZLdBXHP25H-4xS7&t=791

 

I'm not 100% certain it was the crack but when taking the intake manifold off, you can see there was coolant below. I believe it was the gasket that led to coolant seeping through under the manifold and possibly into 3&5 Not necessarily the crack itself may have led to the cause of coolant in the cylinder but that was something that I had noticed upon closer inspection and rather than put cracked heads back in, I'd feel better having them looked at by the pros at Yota1. This is my first time dissasembling an engine so I'm learning as much as I can along the way.

 

That's why I asked, I didn't know if it is known that a coolant passage runs in that area, or if it was just an assumption. At around the 18 minute point, he does show the crack with valve removed and the staining indicating coolant intrusion. Good to know.

 

A slightly cheaper option even with the good warranty......
just the two heads.

If you werent using oil........the block should be fine.




Cylinder Heads Catalog - Powertrain Products

you get what you pay for......


And remember there's another grand in pieces on reconstruct thats gonna bite u in the ass...
dont want to put old stuff back on.....thats just asking for it...

 

What other pieces come to mind for replacement to you? Planning on a full gasket set but not sure what else I need to think about replacing.

 

Time belt/water pump kit......new idlers..

new knock, cam, crank, ect temp,.....new coolant hoses/heater hoses...

maybe even new motor mounts.......


If its been awhile on the injectors.....maybe new ones from motorwest.....