Concentric_Killers Already Built Long Travel Picture Extravaganza

What gears and tires do you have? Also, Do I download the "internet update software"?

 

I have 295/70r17 and 4.88 gears in my six speed.

Yeah that’s the one

 

Now if only there was something this simple for putting a full floater axel in

 

Ok, Just downloaded the software to see where I am at. I also did the math to compare.

Without Gears, just a tire increase its a 1.0803 Ratio. (basically going from a 30" tire to a 33.

Then stock gears: 3.73 to 4.56, that ratio is 1.22252

So then just divide the tire ratio by the gear ratio (1.0803 / 1.22252) and I get 0.883745.


Ill let you know how this works out!

 

Yep! I mounted mine in the little cubby next to your left knee. That way if I ever need to tweak it I don’t need to take my whole dash apart again.

 

Excellent idea.

 

So about a month ago I managed to break one of the spring hangers on the DMZ SUA kit. Not sure how I broke it as I never experienced a pop. I noticed my Passenger side rear leaf pack was bent, upon further inspection I found that the hanger/ Shackle was literally held on by a 1/2" grade 8 bolt. I reached out to Tim at DMZ and he will be sending me a new bracket for free.





So this was my excuse to buy a welder again. It has been a couple years since I Mig welded. I grew up welding on Miller products but I didn't want to spend miller prices at the moment. After much debate, I settled on the Hobart 210 MVP. Mainly, this is a "cheap" miller and I can get consumables at any Tractor Supply The drive roller and other parts actually have "Miller" stamped on them. They are even made at the same plant.

I had to add a 240V socket for the welder in the garage as well. So I bought some 6 gauge THHN wire and ran it through some 3/4" flex conduit to the place where I wanted to put the outlet. After much online research, the consensus was that this welder should be on a 50A circuit. The welder only draws 34A but depending upon how "Clean" your power is, upsizing the breaker will allow this machine to work better.

 

So before taking the truck apart, I decided to run many test beads. It has been a couple years since welding. I ran some basic fillets, and then spent some time practicing my vertical down welding. For the new bracket, it will be all vertical welding, so I had to make sure i was able stick two pieces of metal together.

Another note. Welding vertical up will provide more heat and potentially more penetration and fusion. I am very rusty at this. I am not worried however since the bracket is thin (3/16) and the frame is only (1/8"). Vertical down should provide plenty of heat.





So I wanted to test my vertical down strength. I welded both sides of this (vertical down) and then beat the crap out of it with a hammer. I bent the metal pretty good and the welds did not break.

 

So I finally took the truck apart to get to the spring hanger. Upon further inspection, I noticed that I could probably just clean up the edges and re-weld it back together. So that is what I did. I just welded the seam. I will at least be able to drive the truck around and I will eventually replace the bracket when I don't have so much stuff going on. Who knows, maybe it will stay this way for a couple months.

I will go do some light offroading and make sure the welds are holding before I go bashing on it.

 

Those welds will hold no problem, you have plenty of heat in the material... the hanger design is a little questionable, they have a ton of leverage on them

 

I did go test the truck after I got it back together. Needless to say I didn't have to return on foot which is a good thing.

Yea, one of the downsides to going spring under is how the hangers hang down lower over stock. I have seen guys add some diagnal tubes that go to added cross members under the bed. Problem I have is that I have my full 33" spare near the stock location. If I get a another truck for house projects and I can leave this as the camp trail rig full time, I may build a swing out or something.

 

Same state and same fenders. Are those rivets securing the liners to the fender? I cut the liners awhile back but haven't figured out how best to secure them to the fenders.

 

Spring under doesn’t mean you need the goofy drop hangers!

 

They are just 'clip nuts' they clip onto the inner fiberglass lip. You can find them at most hardware stores.

 

Thats a sweet setup with the hangers.

 

Those clip nuts are like this:
https://www.mcmaster.com/speed-nuts/no-slip-clip-on-barrel-nuts-9/

I think I got them in a 1/4-20 thread. Just grease the fastener so you can get them out after a year of mud/ road salt.

Also, my fender liners are just .090 abs. I bought a 4'x8' sheet and then made cardboard templates.

 

Update 9/29/2021**

- Ordered camburg 4x4 spindles back in April of 2021. I finally got them late August.
- First set of spindles from camburg had a bunch of Powdercoat overspray on the machined faces and dings from shipping. I sent the spindles back and then they sent me a new set 4 days later.

To my knowledge, I don't think anyone has run a Chaos kit with these spindles. They in fact do work. I had doubts since the stock spindles barely work with the chaos kit.





For this install I had to buy the following
- Shorter 5/8-18 grade 8 bolts. They sent me 2.75" and 3" long Grade 9 bolts. Grade 9 is overkill for this application. The stock lower ball joint bolts for the chaos kit were grade 5 (Class 8.8 metric). Lots of bolt theory between grades/ classes that I won't get into. I had to use 5/8-18 x2" bolts. This gives me a solid 1.5" of thread engagement. For comparison, the stock spindles only had 3/4" of thread engagement with a course thread bolt. The fine threads offer a larger area of engagement.


- A 5/8-18 tap. The bottom holes still had powdercoat in them.
- M6-1.0 x 15mm Socket cap screw. The spindles move the wheel speed sensor to the top middle of the hub. It is impossible to use the same M6 hex bolt that was used with the stock spindles. The spindles provide a small hole to use a Allen Tee handle to tighten this fastener.

I also took time to re-pack my CV's with grease, installed new wheel hub/ bearing assemblies and new outer/ inner dust seals.








Hopefully later this year I will sent my arms out for Powdercoat. My chaos kit is 10 years old.

 

The spindles look solid. Nicely done.

 

They are definitely solid. I went to 5 mile yesterday and did about 40 miles of Whoops with the occasional check to make sure my bolts didn't loosen. Its been a while since I have driven over just whoops, felt good to get the legs stretched on the truck.

 

Where'd you source the flex coupler? I'm looking for a similar solution to my cowl intake vibe woes.