Confused about oil pressure measurements

Thanks for the solid advice. My uncle and I had similar thoughts about the pickup screen. He suggested adding a quart of ATF. I haven't changed oil yet but will in next day or two after if I decide to add ATF or maybe a few ounces of Seafoam.

I'm willing to put more money into the truck as I want it to last because I like it a lot but I don't want to spend blindly and without due diligence.

No flushing ideas sound crazy. I've read posts suggesting various additives, ATF, diesel, even dollar store degreaser. Your suggestion isn't crazy at all because as crazy as this sounds I've had really good luck soaking old sewing machines in kerosene and even degreaser/water mix then blow out with air, some wd40 to remove water/prevent rust and then a good oiling.

I'm really just trying to make a best guess about what is happening inside before I start disassembling. I'm certain I'll be changing oil a few times and removing passenger side value cover in the near future. The oil pan is going to be a big job that I may have to get help or pay someone. The front differential has to come out.

 

This is a parts washer like I’m talking about. Noble oil services cleans it/services it once a month. What they do with the stuff after they leave, I have no idea. A small block v8 in long block form will barely fit sitting on the flywheel.

 

Yeah I saw post where someone brushed and vacuumed as much as possible. Thx

 

Thx. Sounds like wise advice

 

I may pop valve cover first. Will definitely be doing this.

 

I worked in a mechanic shop while I was in high school in the 80s. Cars would come in with very low oil pressure, the first thing we would do is pull the valve covers. Most times there was a ton of sludge in the top of the head/valve train. The oil wouldn't drain back to the lower part of the engine as fast as the oil pump would pump it back up. We would cover the car with plastic (because like another member posted, very messy!) then take a blow gun with a long nozzle and blow all the sludge out with air. Then we would reinstall the valve covers, fill the engine up with kerosene until it ran out of the oil filler and let it sit overnight. The next morning, we would drain everything out. We never cranked the engine during this process, running an engine with kerosene in it will ruin the main crankshaft and connecting rod bearings. We would let it drain for a long time to make sure everything was out, then install new oil and filter. We would crank it and drive it for 10-20 miles and then change the oil and filter again. This would usually correct the problem. We would tell the owner to have the oil and filter changed again after a couple hundred miles. The sludge buildup would usually be the result of not changing the oil on a regular basis.

 

Sounds good
Suggest editing "Push rod bearings" to main and rod bearings.

 

Fixed it

 

Pro here.

It's the oil pick up screen in all likelihood. It clogs up over time and will allow limited oil through. This causes flickering.

Cleaning under the valve cover will do piss all for oil pressure, same with seafoam, oil pressure is dictated by oil feed and pressure much earlier than the top end.

Drop pan, clean pickup.

 

I thought it would be in the top end since he said pressure comes back after he turns off the engine for a time and starts it back up. That would give the oil time to drain back down to the pan. Just my thinking?

 

https://youtu.be/CxZJMRhSLNw <<< Shows oil pressure looking normal

Waiting for other to upload

 

This does seem to be most logical thing. I’m looking at the effort and complexity to remove the front differential. I’m far from pro but can slowly work through this.

 

https://youtu.be/nmrY68f3tEk

Here is a vid showing problems. Didn’t drop to zero here but something definitely is off.

 

Can you get a snap of the inside of your oil filler cap?

 

What oil filter are you using ??? ,a malfunctioning bypass valve in the oil filter will result in low oil pressure

 

Looks like generic on now. I just picked up Toyota filter to put on when I change.

 

if you suspect any sludge DO NOT do this. Your pickup screen is going to get clogged

 

looks like drive way sealer

have to wonder what type oil & driving conditions day in/out

i have doubts ALL the junk yard cures will work as there will e a LOT os detritus

flowing thru out the engine

in fact the filter would clog in short if it all were dissolve/broken loose

if U can SEE that much sludge ............its worse in places cant be seen

hard to believe the oil pump itself is in shape

i think the engine has seen ZERO ‘ 0 ‘ oil pressure a few times

again i say how far will it go after these mentioned junk yard cures

 

In this vid I can see that your engine is indeed capable of achieving normal operating temp (I assume the gauge isnt lying and you can actually get heat from your defroster).

So your deposit issue is likely the result of improper oil change intervals and not a stuck open or missing thermostat. A pan drop would answer some questions but maybe you aren't in such dire straights.