Considerations to note before lifting

I have a 2020 TRD pro. My original intent was to get the Pro bc I didn’t want to mod anything and I liked how it looked as is.

I really think a set of 33s fill out the truck the best. I assume I need at least a 2” lift to get that to work.

I daily drive into the he city (20 mi ea way) and right now I like the way the stock truck rides. What are all the things I should consider before doing the lift?

Here’s what I’ve come up with so far:

-1-2mpg less
-Little less power/more downshifting if I don’t regear
Stiffer ride?
-Will need to get alignment done
-Will need get speedometer reCalibrated

am I missing anything else?

how much should I budget for everything?

 

Suspension lift does not help with tire clearance on these trucks.

A 285 75 16 or
A 285 70 17 would probably require a CMC though people claim not to need one, but if you do anything at all other than drive in a straight line and don't hit any speed bumps you're gonna rub.

You can fit a skinny 33 and not worry about anything

255 85 16
255 80 17

No cutting or suspension required.

 

The all-knowing, god-like engineers at Toyota (that's what I'm told here at TW) decided there would never been any cause to run a different tire size, so you can't actually recalibrate for it in the ECU. You need an in-line unit from Hypertech or RC that goes between the ECU and instrument cluster. The rough country version is a rebranded Hypertech, but costs less.

 

I think now with the ECU TSB (if your truck needs it) and the right tune it’ll drive better than before.
I’ve got 255/85/16s and my trucks power/shifting feels better than before lift and tires but after the TSB update. I plan on getting a tune at some point from @dave5623. He can give you more details about the tune as well.
There are devices to get your Speedo calibrate but myself, I just calculate it in my head lol. Good luck!

 

For reference I am running 265 75 16 and at 60 mph I am going 61. If you do not adjust speedo, remember this for fuel and maintenance. It's small but does change things.

 

All i can say riding in a buddies 2019 trd that had been lifted, it rode like crap, vibrated, and sucked gas.....but looking cool, priceless.

 

How was it lifted and how high?

 

3'' with a kit he purchased....have no idea what it was, just that recently its been put back to stock and now everything is good.

 

No cutting of anything needed with my set up and I don’t just drive in a straight line.

No vibration after added the tapered blocks. I didn’t add them initially because I wanted the front to settle before deciding on the size of the blocks. Before I added the blocks there was a slight vibration which I though was the tires not being balanced properly but it’s gone now that I’ve added the tapered blocks.

Specs:

2016 TRD Sport 2WD
Eibach Stage 1 on the lowest clip
Icon Rebound Satin Black 0 Offset 17x8.5
Nitto Ridge Grapplers 285/70/17
1.5 Inch Tapered Block in the rear.

 

@iampraneel

Whats the caster on your alignment? I'm 4.4/4.5 Caster on jba uca.

I'm on very similar setup.
6112/5160
1.5" tapered block
Icon Rebounds 17x8 0 offset .75" wheel spacers
285/75/17

 

I'm running a pro with 285/75/16 right now, they are definitely the largest I would put without more lift.

Things I noticed
- Down closer 2-3mpg along with some mods
- I would love to regear, just money for now, it shifts alot on the highway in certain rpm ranges
- Also if you offroad they often come out of alignment a bit quicker, you are reminding me I need to go do one
- It really does make the truck more capable though if you wheel

 

Dude. First of all it will be 20% or so less efficient, which means 3-4 less mpg.
Lifting does not help tire clearance because suspension goes up and down, meaning if you can't get tires to quit rubbing at stock height then they will still rub with a 2-3 inch lift.
Lastly, you can spend from $200 to $10,000 on a lift. You pick.

 

One thing to consider is that with most lifts you will likely go through cv boots / axles much faster than if you were at stock height.

 

2 inches or less not really, 5 years and no issues.

 

I know some people are luckier, but I had a 2 or 3 inch lift on my 2nd gen and it sure went through CVs.

 

You mentioned that you commute into the city, have you considered height clearance?

I worked in the city (Toronto) and I remember parking in an underground that was extremely close in height.

Was rear ended and had a full size pick up as a rental (Dodge Ram 1500), and I scraped the roof of it on some sprinkler pipe.

 

I have the OEM UCA’s and here are my specs from the alignment.

 

Pros already come 1" higher.

I'd pop in a 1/2" top plate and be done with it. It'll give 1" of lift and I bet you will notice no difference in ride quality. Pop in a 1" rear block too.

If you don't like it or want to revert back to stock, its just a few hours of wrenching.
Less than 200.

 

awesome, I might give skinny tires a shot. 255/80/17 on a 8.5" width wheel is okay? I'm looking at Toyo AT3, 8.5" is the max supported, but is it gonna defeat the skinny look? Thanks

 

Well this thread is remarkably depressing. I did so much research here and I couldn’t find any negative aspects of lifting my truck 3 inches and adding bigger tires. Then the moment I’m done doing just that I come back to the forum and read this thread. Freaking thousands of pictures of Tacomas lifted with bigger tires and now you guys are warning about it here. lol. FMD.