Considering a '13

Am just looking for a bit of info on what are the most common issues for the 2013 Tacomas (AC Sr5). Have browsed a number of pages here, trying to get a feel of what issues are most common, and thought it may be beneficial to try to collect the info in one thread, with direct feedback from owners, rather than countless hours of sifting through post.

Had a mechanic look at it. Over all, it seemed like a good vehicle. Had three issues we found.

1) Looking under it, he knew it was from a cold weather state, from rust. He didn't state that it was terrible, just that it was present. Have those serious frame rust issues that I've read about been fixed by the 2013 model year?

2) Smelled some coolant. He didn't find any coolant. DID find some build up on the engine oil cooler in the form of a crusty build up, that he said was from a current or prior coolant leak. Is this a typical or re-occurring issue with the '13 model.

3) The fuel fill door had an issue with opening completely. Seems it had been "over-opened" at some point, and the hinge is bent.

Anyway, when it comes to 2000 Jeep Cherokees, I can tell you the main issues to expect or look out for.... hairline cracks between the 3 & 4 cylinder on both the 00 & 01 models, driver side window auto down "gear" stripping out, engine cooling issues, etc. These are experienced by most, if not all owners.

What can be expected from the later year 2nd generation Tacomas?

 

Possibly low transmission fluid, and usually the stock leaf springs suck. Possible weatherstripping leaks in windshield. The rubber seal between grill and hood can make a noise, there are some easy fixes for this. Also possible bad needle bearing on driver side cv.

 

We did not find a dip stick for the tranny fluid. Did we just miss it, or does it lack one? If there isn't one, how does one monitor the level. Also, I am assuming "low transmission fluid" is a kind way of saying transmission fluid leaks?

 

Rotting frames are still an issue. It's no an "all or most owners" problem, but if you live in the rust belt it's of concern.

Toyota replaced alot of frames in a recall already for early second gen

 

It's sealed unit. You would know by how it's acting.

 

Things to check:
1) Frame rust - a change was made in suppliers of the frame to Toyota but the jury is still out if the rusting issue is solved. Fluid film or similar treatment would certainly help. The AC drain empties out onto the frame in the passengers side. Add an extension hose.
2) wind noise from the windshield is possible on some trucks. I didn't have it on mine. From memory, I think the trim needed to be re-sealed or the trim replaced.
3) wind noise from the grill gap with the hood. Toyota designed a whistle into the gap... 1/4" plastic tube slid into the rubber gasket at the top of the grill eliminates the noise.
4) pinging when hot. Some trucks will ping and there's a TSB to have the ECU reprogrammed. I had mine done and the pinging went away but you'll loose a little mpg (I did).
5) SR5 - If it has the flip down seat, it'll probably rattle going over bumps.
6) dashboard rattle from the defroster duct or dash at the windshield. Haven't figured out a fix for that yet.
7) 4x4? Make sure it goes into & out of 4wd without issue. It can be an expensive fix if the electrical controls need to be replaced.
8) recent reports of the secondary air pump failures are being reported. There's an air pump on the pass side fender that has a foam filter in it. Some (including me) have removed the foam and replaced it with an external filter. Foam deteriorates and gets into the pump breaking the vanes. Expensive fix if that happens. The valves can also get stuck in that system. There a bypass some have used.
9) auto transmissions may be low from the factory. There's a procedure written on here to check.
10) some trucks have had driveline vibrations. There's a TSB. If it's lifted you might have front diff vibes that is fixed by replacing a roller bearing with a sleeve bearing.

That's all I can think of right now. All in all, they are decent trucks. If you plan on towing heavy loads or hauling a lot of weight - consider a larger truck. Rear springs (stockers) on these squat easily. People do tow near the max but you won't get there fast and it'll burn a lot of fuel doing it.

 

Start it up cold for the first time in the morning and listen for piston slap. Tough to tell this time of the year, it's worse <50 degrees. This was extreme on my '13 and resulted in a new short block and eventually a lemon buy back.

If you have the noise, you will hear it the loudest around the lower drivers front of the engine. Some cases were related to bad oil pumps too, it is located in that same drivers front lower area.

 

On my 13 the only thing ive had is the cross wind noise at the top of the door. Had a TSB performed. I do have some engine ping with lower octane fuel. 92 octane for me gets rid of it.

 

47,000 on my '13. I had the whistle between 45-60 and read about using drip line on these forums. I used about 2 feet and placed it inside the front hood weatherstripping. Took it to dealer and they did the TSB anyway and replaced it for free (so either way your probably good after a few bucks).

The only rattle I had was the driver side window switch which dealer put some tape on (only hear it with heavy bass). Passenger seat is fold-down (SR5) and doesn't rattle but it does jiggle around.

I had some coolant leaking from the (overflow) hose for the radiator so slow it doesn't matter (I bought some pink coolant and put like 1 cup in a few weeks ago to fill her back up to spec - I guess I could have bought a hose clamp or something but whatever.

I had them do the "knock" flash for the computer, and it quieted it down a bit for me in very cold weather especially with 92 octane and synthetic oil instead of conventional. But it still sounds like a finely tuned sewing machine so I know its Japanese.

No problems with the CV or anything yet, but the back springs are crap. You have about 1100 pounds total load, so like 800-900 lbs depending how fat you are. Fully loaded it sags like crazy but I've only hit the bump stops on highway a few times and it did great offroad anyway - you just can tell its fully laden.

I have the factory tow package with the transmission cooler, which people highly recommend, but people worry about transmission fluid level. I'm planning to have em drain and fill at 50,000 which should get it topped off if it was a little low. It shifts just fine although I feel the chatter of the lockup (forget what its called in the transmission) on the highway sometimes.

I changed the rear diff fluid at 30,000 and it looked pretty good with a pea size collection of shavings, if that. Haven't done front or transfer case yet.

Never had any problems. I plugged in the code reader and the only one its ever thrown was a false start or something one time (I don't remember anything weird).

Everything has been great enjoy your rear-view backup camera and temperature/compass. I think only the 12 and 13 have em. And the nice steering wheel.

 

Thanks everyone!! I definitely have a better grasp on what to have my mechanic look close at!!

 

Great truck. I haven't experienced any of he above issues. Only problem I've had is the double sided tape that holds the roof rack channels in place gave up the ghost. Occasionally vibrates and makes noise in certain crosswinds on the highway. Have to be doing over 65 though. I haven't done the diff oils yet, but it's up next, -along with a mother set of plugs, filters, etc. I just rolled 74k on it this morning. No pinging, engine noise, etc. I am pretty meticulous about changing the oil on schedule. I switched to synthetic around 50k. I'm not a big wheeler, and I don't tow a ton. Mostly small boats that max about 5k pounds and a monster snowblower in the winter. Best of luck with it!

 

I decided against the one I was currently looking at. Still am considering a later model Tacoma though.

I am a bit confused by the tow ratings. I don't tow much, however I do move some large gang boxes with tools occasionally. Not sure of the total weight. Probably pushing over 1000 lbs, definitely over adding the weight of the 10' trailer I have.

I read somewhere that without brakes on the trailer (and mine does not have them), the tow rating is only 1000 lbs, even with the tow package. I am not sure where I read this. Can anyone here confirm tow ratings without brakes on the trailer?

My other question concerns adding a remote start. Is this possible, should the Tacoma have the remote keyless entry, or other security features that are becoming more common?

Another question would be availability of headache racks or ladder racks. What are some good sources to investigate the styles and cost?

Thanks again!!

 

Regarding the fuel door not opening completely, I've had this issue on my '12. The door was replaced under warranty for me at about 60K (I've got 100K Platinum coverage.) Now at about 85K, it seems to have the same behavior - not opening all the way and not closing "flush." I'll probably take it back again to the dealer.

 

Truck is rated to pull 6500 pounds if I recall, when equipped with the tow package. I've never heard the 1000 pound number. There are also a bunch of remote start options.

 

The only issue I have with my 2013 is a slight whistle in heavy crosswinds. Otherwise, it is a great truck. I think most of the kinks from ealier 2nd gens were worked out by the time the '13s hit the market.

 

Fulton246, you probably need the stuff 1/4" OD tubing through the hood gasket fix. I did both my '13 and '14 to fix it. Windshields sometimes cause that too.

I'm surprised that the Platinum warranty covered the gas door. Mine broke off on my '06 and all that was covered was the door spring that pops it open, not the door or the hinge. Fuel filling nozzles usually over extend the door and damage the hinge or lack of lubrication causes the hinge to break.

 

The issue youre having with the fuel door is the hinge is drying up. If you read under the general maintenance in the owners manual is states to lube the fuel door cover hinges. Along with all the other hinges on the truck.


As for towing, with the tow package the the truck is rated for 6500 lbs. If equipped with the tow package from the factory it comes with a connection for a trailer brake controller.

 

Go for it I love mine

 

Would Fluid Film be a good choice to lube the hinges? I've never done this but I'd like to include it when I do oil changes and PM.