Converting Sliding Rear Window to Power

for a How To write-up....please

 

Ok here is a little more information for you, I hope this helps. In post #9 you will find most of the items I used to install this linear actuator to operate the rear sliding window of my dbl cab prerunner.
When I first received the actuator I used a 9volt transistor battery to operate it, this way I could ensure it was full closed and ready for installation.
I then had to decide how to mount the brackets, the one mounted to the glass slider was easy as it simply had to be glued in place, and like I said earlier in the post I decided to use super glues five minute epoxy.
Now for the rear bracket I started off on a tangent of some real complicated bracket design, then I realized that the actual weight this actuator was moving was minimal at best so I scaled back my design and made it very simple. I looked at the window and noticed that there was a thick piece of flat rubber that was pretty hard and could probably support the bracket and actuator. I had a piece of plastic lying around, it was simulated carbon fiber, just a little thicker than 1/8 inch. I cut a piece 1 1/8 inches by 4 ½ inches long. This allowed me to use some #8 x ¾ inch self tapping sheet metal screws to mount it to the piece of rubber. I mounted the bracket to the piece of plastic with a couple of #8 x ½ inch machine screws and nuts.
Once I had that installed I placed the closed actuator on the rear bracket and inserted the pin. I then got the other bracket and placed it on the actuator rod and inserted the pin. I then mixed up my epoxy and applied it to the bracket and held it against the window until it set-up. At this point the actuator was installed and ready to be wired.
To disable the latch on the sliding rear window I had a couple of black rubber faucet washers and a black ty-rap, I slid the ty-rap through the washer holes and then placed the washer between the latch and glass and tightened down the ty-rap. This keeps the latch from engaging and locking the slider. You need not worry about locking your slider after this is installed as the actuator is stronger than the latch and can’t be manually forced open.
I then chose a place to mount my switch, it’s not a factory Toyota switch so it doesn’t match the interior. I wanted a place that would be easily reachable but out of site. So I decided to mount it in the console, at first I simply used some double sided foam tape. I now have made a more respectable bracket which you can see in the picture.
I took my power from the 4WD fuse location under the dash with a power tap which is controlled by the ignition switch. The actuator does not use much power, less than an amp to operate. (Note: I am not much for crimp on connectors, I solder everything and use shrink tubing).
To wire the switch go to: http://www.dclinearactuators.com/linear-actuators/how-to-wire-a-linear-actuator-to-a-rocker-switch/
This should cover just about everything, if you have any questions just ask; I am happy to help. My window is working great I have opened and closed it over 100 times no issues.

 

awesome idea. i like it. personally i would rather have the cleaner look of the CR Laurence, but this is a very respectable alternative. plus it's a lot cheaper.

i would do this, but i have an idea that i've came up with and this power slider would get in the way. should have a thread up in the next few days!

 

I've been pondering on how to do this without the expense if a CR Laurence. Although EngineerIt's method is very simple and straight forward, I too would like a cleaner, OEM look. I'm thinking of using cables and a power window motor. I'm still in the pondering stage, and am not going to try anything until it gets warmer here in Canada. I'm very interested in how you're doing yours. Please post pictures, and a "how to" when you're done. Good luck!

 

I would agree that the CR Lawrence is a cleaner look, but you also want to remember that the operating hardware for the CR Lawrence needs to be mounted, which usually means that the storage dividers behind the rear seat will have to be used to accommodate the space required. I know it is only part of one of the shelves but you still loose space. Also there is the drawback of removing the rear window to install the CR Lawrence product. You have to cut the glue to remove the window and that scratches the heck out of the finish of the truck. That’s why window installation kits supply you with the primer, to help seal up those scratches. Yes the new window will be glued in and the scratches will not be noticeable if done correctly, but the problem is I know they are there.... and I don’t like to contribute to the possibility of rust. The salt air down here in Florida does enough to your vehicle.

 

I really like this idea; bought the items and will probably install this weekend. When I had my old Nissan pickup I could reach the rear window and I used it all the time. In my DC that is not possible.

 

nice job, I had actually sourced the exact same actuator from firgelli, but I didn't know exactly where to mount.

I'm also thinking of using a very small dc motor that turns a slotted strip on the window, so I can hide everything.

 

I totally agree,and that's why I like your idea. It's straight forward, and doesn't take a whole lot of tinkering to install. You got a good rep from me for this one.

I was just pondering if there are any other ways to doing this with a cleaner hidden look, but without removing the entire window. Yours is the best idea so far.

 

Nice job!

 

This feature comes standard in my truck...

 

Thats ok, in a few years, with the money you get for a trade in on yours, you will be able to buy the parts to do this mod on your new Tacoma. And you may even have enough left over to buy a drink at the parts store to quench your thirst as you install this new mod.




JK.

 

Thanks for the great idea! My girlfriend gets tired of reaching back there to open the window.

 

Great job, I was looking into this design but didn't see something that small.

 

Wow, what a great idea! I was definitely disappointed that my truck didn't have this option when I bought it. My prior trucks were both single cab and I always had the window open. It's just too much of a hassle in my DC. I would love to try this, hope I can enlist a friend to help me with the wiring operations.

 

bump for a sweet mod. if I had a sliding rear window i would do this

 

Does anyone know if there is a factory momentary switch that can be utilized instead of the one from Firgelli which will fit in our blank slots?

 

Sorry I don't know of another double pole switch by Toyota that will fit in the existing dash blanks. I did however mount mine from the console to one of the blanks under the radio. It is a little bit of a stretch but I don't have to open the console anymore. I was wodnering what the Tundra uses for there sliding rear window?

 

I ended up ordering the switch from Firgelli with the actuator and brackets. Sorry I don't know what the Tundra switch is.

 

and to think,i was going to use a stick with some tape on it to open and close mine
when i was sitting in the front, me thinks my caveman mod is going to change

 

Now I want to get rid of that big black latch in the middle of the rear window. Anyone know how to remove it without breaking the glass??