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Converting Sliding Rear Window to Power

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Engineerlt, Dec 11, 2009.

  1. Oct 4, 2010 at 3:00 PM
    #61
    Bullzi511Tacoma06

    Bullzi511Tacoma06 KCCO

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    I haven't looked at exactly how it's attached. Is it just glued?
     
  2. Oct 5, 2010 at 6:12 AM
    #62
    TacomaDad

    TacomaDad Member

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    I think it's just glued but it looks like the glass itself has been blacked out behind and around the latch so removing it may not eliminate the black spot as I had hoped.
     
  3. Oct 7, 2010 at 10:19 AM
    #63
    cmartell7

    cmartell7 New Member

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    I don't even know if it's possible, but can you replace the whole 3-piece back window with a single pane and have it powered like the Tundra? If possible, that's what I would most be interested in, but I'm not sure based upon the spacing of the cab behind the seats.
     
  4. Oct 7, 2010 at 10:42 AM
    #64
    08WhiteTRD

    08WhiteTRD Well-Known Member

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    This is one of the best mods I have seen. I really want to do this one. One more thing added to my todo list.
     
  5. Oct 8, 2010 at 4:57 AM
    #65
    TacomaDad

    TacomaDad Member

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    oem style fog lights w/fj switch, remote lock chirp w/override switch in glovebox, heated mirrors w/highlander switch, lighted cup holders, center console, front cubby and glovebox, defroster w/o A/C mod, AFE Pro Dry S, removed secondary filter, USA Spec iPod interface, linear actuator driven power sliding rear window w/switch in overhead console, Tundra TRD 17" 5 split-spoke wheels
    I completed this mod last weekend and couldn't be happier with it. It was reasonably inexpensive, easy to do and best of all it accomplished my objective of actually being able to use the sliding rear window I could never reach while I was driving. Here is a picture of where I decided to mount my switch. Hope I'm doing this right, I've never posted a picture. Thanks to EngineerIt for a great idea!!!

    IMG_4944.jpg
     
    saweetlou, hbarraza1983 and amkaos like this.
  6. Oct 13, 2010 at 11:34 PM
    #66
    trdagule

    trdagule Well-Known Member

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    looks good
     
  7. Oct 13, 2010 at 11:41 PM
    #67
    Bullzi511Tacoma06

    Bullzi511Tacoma06 KCCO

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    That looks great! Did you figure out the latch removal?
     
  8. Oct 14, 2010 at 5:40 AM
    #68
    TacomaDad

    TacomaDad Member

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    oem style fog lights w/fj switch, remote lock chirp w/override switch in glovebox, heated mirrors w/highlander switch, lighted cup holders, center console, front cubby and glovebox, defroster w/o A/C mod, AFE Pro Dry S, removed secondary filter, USA Spec iPod interface, linear actuator driven power sliding rear window w/switch in overhead console, Tundra TRD 17" 5 split-spoke wheels
    No, didn't figure out the latch removal...yet. I do want to mention however, that if anyone else is considering this mod they should use the non-momentary switch that Firgelli Automations offers. I got the momentary switch as I did not realize they sell 2 different switches. The reason I say this is because it takes 8 seconds for the window to fully open/close and your finger needs to stay on the momentary switch for that length of time. The actuator has built in limit switches so it automatically shuts off when fully open and when fully closed and if you wanted to stop it anywhere along the way you can just move the button to the middle position. The non-momentary switch (part# MAN-RS) is definitely the way to go.
     
    SocalTaco15 likes this.
  9. Oct 14, 2010 at 7:24 AM
    #69
    IluvTEA

    IluvTEA Well-Known Member

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    Cooper ST 265/75/16 on Flat Black TRD OR wheels, window tint, blacked-out badges, front mudflap trim, BHLM, Base Black Rear Bumper Swap, Color-matched grille, Custom Relentless Fab plate bumper powdercoated flat wrinkle black and "TACOMA" backlit with Drunknsloth LEDs, Camburg 2.5" coilovers, LR UCAs, Power sliding rear window, Back-up camera anytime, FX-R projectors/Morimoto 3Five Ballasts/D2S bulbs 5000K, Black WeatherTechs, heated TRD seats with Roadwire Graphite Leather, OEM Roof Rack, front mud flap delete, Black Level 8 Guardians, TreadWright 285/75/16 with KG ...
    Great thanks for the heads up!
     
  10. Oct 14, 2010 at 1:33 PM
    #70
    Engineerlt

    Engineerlt [OP] Member

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    Hey great idea on the non-momentary switch (part# MAN-RS). I wasn't really sure how that would play into my original install, but I believe you are correct. I know 8 seconds seems like a long time while you are holding down that switch. I think I will buy one and change mine. I have had zero issues with this set-up since I have installed it; I hope everybody else that does this mod has the same results.
     
  11. Oct 15, 2010 at 4:04 PM
    #71
    TacomaDad

    TacomaDad Member

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    oem style fog lights w/fj switch, remote lock chirp w/override switch in glovebox, heated mirrors w/highlander switch, lighted cup holders, center console, front cubby and glovebox, defroster w/o A/C mod, AFE Pro Dry S, removed secondary filter, USA Spec iPod interface, linear actuator driven power sliding rear window w/switch in overhead console, Tundra TRD 17" 5 split-spoke wheels
    I think the "sustaining" switch would just make your mod an even better idea than it already is. I love this thing and I would never have thought it up myself. I can't believe just how difficult it was to reach back there. I've only owned regular cab pickups until now and without power that window is pretty useless. One morning before the mod I thought I had it all figured out, I opened the window as I was getting into the truck to drive to work. I pulled out of the driveway and got out on the road and up to about 40 mph everything was good. Then a minute or two later I look up at the rearview mirror and there is a river of condensation from the roof of the truck pouring in and forming a puddle on the back floor. By the time I dislocated my shoulder to reach back there and close it all of the condensation had already entered the cab and that was the end of my bright idea. So thanks again, I think this is one of the best mods on "the list".
     
    saweetlou likes this.
  12. Oct 24, 2010 at 7:22 AM
    #72
    Kahunadave

    Kahunadave Well-Known Member

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    Great write up.. and Mod. I'm actually researching Rear window options only b/c my truck was broken into by jimmying the back window open.. possibly w/a screwdriver. I guess the guy was pretty skinny to squeeze through there but he did. This mod would definately make that back window more secure!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:
     
  13. Oct 24, 2010 at 5:10 PM
    #73
    ink junky

    ink junky I love tacos too!!!

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    WOW he must have been fuckin skin and bones to get through that window :eek:
     
  14. Oct 24, 2010 at 8:59 PM
    #74
    Kahunadave

    Kahunadave Well-Known Member

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    SKinny enuf that he did it 2x. First to my neighbors truck 3 houses down and then mine! Well..good news they caught him last night trying to break into some other vehicles a few streets down:fenforcer:
    Stolen items recovered though! :yay: Still think the Mod will be a good deterent for anyones sticky fingers.
     
  15. Nov 8, 2010 at 6:12 AM
    #75
    Lurkin

    Lurkin Well-Known Member

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    Rod
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    Pulling an older post here, but I had a question. You said you moved the FA switch to the blanks by the radio, but what modifications did you make so that it would fit? I am attempting to do the same thing but want as few cuts/permanent mods as possible.

    The switch itself is just a bit wider than the blank opening. I assume that you trimmed the sides of the blank opening, but did you also trim the sides of the switch so that it fit all the way in? Any pics?
     
  16. Nov 8, 2010 at 12:27 PM
    #76
    Engineerlt

    Engineerlt [OP] Member

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    Yes I moved the switch to one of the blanks below the radio. If I remember correctly I trimmed a little off the switch and from the blank opening. I will send you a picture as soon as I get back home on 11th of November.
     
  17. Nov 22, 2010 at 1:27 PM
    #77
    Lurkin

    Lurkin Well-Known Member

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    Just got this done this weekend. I still need to trim some more to get the switch mounted right (switch blanks under the radio). I didn't take pics as it looks exactly like the OPs, except for switch location. A few notes that I took (some new, some not):

    o it is noisier then I thought, even though the OP warned on it. My two boys laugh when I open or close it as it sounds like a cheap robot toy....
    o I got a chunk of 1/8 alum from Home Depot to make the mounting plate, was $10 and only used a small piece, but it worked well.
    o I painted everything flat black except for the bottom of the mounting brackets. Didn't think the epoxy would hold the painted bracket too well.
    o for the mounting bracket that is screwed/bolted to the mounting plate, be careful with the head size, as I had to remove the front screw since it wouldn't allow the actuator to come down fully level.
    o as stated it uses very little current. I used some left-over garage door sensor wire that I had laying around. It's a thin single strand wire, double wire, so it was stiffer than multi-strand and made it easier to route through the panels and floor channels.

    Thanks to the OP for this.

    Does a quieter actuator exist and is reasonably priced?
     
  18. Nov 22, 2010 at 7:02 PM
    #78
    Airun

    Airun Well-Known Member

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    Wow great ideas. I think I'm gonna scrap my plans for a pulley system to open and close mine.
     
  19. Nov 23, 2010 at 9:03 AM
    #79
    themuffinman619

    themuffinman619 Play stupid games, win stupid prizes

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    Great mod OP! Adding this to my to-do-list :thumbsup:
     
  20. Nov 23, 2010 at 9:23 AM
    #80
    paintdiddy

    paintdiddy Machine gun shits

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    nice write up.i dont think i ever open my rear window unless its to put 10ft copper pipes..maybe if i had this i would???
     

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