Coolant bubbling, overflowing out of overflow tank

True. That'll do it too.

The thing is the copper crap floating in there is from somebody dumping in copper crap for some reason.

 

New radiator is my vote for 100.00

 

If your tap water has copper/ mercury or uranium in it, I'd move.

 

And how does this explain the radiator emptying the resevoir in two gulps 30 seconds after spewing green?

 

The radiator is plugged and is pulling some strange behavior with pressure and vacuum from the cap and bottle.

 

This has nothing to do with the type of coolant. The explanation is the cooling system cooled off and the steam in the system condensed. This created a vacuum and sucked the coolant back in. I agree it seems like it should be more gradual, but if there was enough steam displacing coolant in the system it could rapidly condense creating a sudden vacuum and a large volume to fill.

 

Boiling water does create steam but it cannot absorb it. Breaking the bonds between hydrogen and oxygen requires a thermo chemical reaction which generates cold water and hydrogen gas which will dissipate heat exponetially faster than water causing a much more rapid condensation and its subsequent vacuum which explains "two gulps in 30 seconds" and the resevoir is empty. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s40095-014-0087-3

 

No hydrogen gas is created when water turns into steam. I've never heard of coolant turning into hydrogen gas as this would be quite dangerous and we'd probably hear stories of explosions if this happened frequently. If the water/coolant changed into hydrogen and oxygen gas these would persist as a gases even as they cooled and would keep the pressure high.

 

So i spoke with a good friend of mine at a BBQ last night. I explained to him everything, and said yeah my radiator isn't new but less than 5 years old.
His Sequoia was doing the exact same thing. He took it into a toyota dealer and had a master toyota mechanic look at his. On the side of radiator facing the motor, under the shroud, coming from where the plastic top of radiator meets metal, a white line running all the way down. Not a big leak, but enough to allow air in. It explains a lot. His truck was fine after he replaced his radiator. The design of many toyota truck radiators is not good, and prone to have a leak in this area(hard to believe i know... but seeing is believing).

Sure enough, a quick look under the fan shroud plastic to the corner of my radiator facing the engine, behind the shroud looking with a flashlight with my head upside down, VOILA, white line of dried coolant coming from the same place. Check the inside and outside of your radiator fins from left to right ladies and gents.

It took a LOT to make my truck overheat, hours of driving. It will bubble for a long time before the temp guage goes up. That means the mechanics of the cooling system work well(water pump good, radiator not too clogged, thermostat opening properly, ect.) This little hole, which likely half the time is plugged with dried coolant, explains my problem.

I plan to full flush with a mild acid and water, put in a new thermostat for grins, and also replace the radiator.
I'll post if radiator solves the issue. It certainly needs replacement, and I imagine is letting air seep into my system once it reaches a certain temp.

 

Methane gas is also quite dangerous but you don't hear stories of explosions and methane exothermic reactions happen frequently. Standards Molar enthalpy of formation. Fuel air ratios for explosions 74.81kj/mol https://youtu.be/m6WJcqv6qAQ

 

It's letting water out, not air in.

 

I know you know this but just remember if there’s ANY air in the system it will over heat the engine.

the best solution is always to use one of these kits to burp the system.

 

Every five years I have drained my coolant, filled with distilled water and run till engine is hot 10 min drive approx. I drain the distilled water and fill with fresh distilled water and run again. Three drain and run cycles and the fluid runs clear. My radiator is as clean as when new. never overheated and engine temp is steady at 180. Same original thermostat. radiator. hoses etc. I have always used PINK silicate free coolant specificaly reccomended for Toyota and diluted with distilled water using a hygrometer to test for 50/50 mix. Would I ever acid flush an aluminum engine ? Absolutely not. I have never seen any particles/sludge settle out of my drained coolant or the distilled water used in flushing. Fools wont heed it. wise men dont need it. Advice that is.

 

Never did never will never needed to

 

Well the heater core hoses are higher than the top of the radiator and if you don’t use one of these
the system doesn’t get completely filled trapping air in the system.

But the air will eventually get purged if your system is working correctly from the expansion tank as it heats and cools over time

 

It's not that ANY air in the system will overheat it, it won't, if there's any air trapped behind the thermostat, it will overheat it as hot air doesn't seem to open the stat.

Many people run a system low on coolant, hell I've seen them damn near 1/2 full run cool (with proper pressure) If water is leaking out, air is getting in.

 

Possibly so, my experience has been any air in my system caused a positive heat different for me tho

 

I read the same post on here about the heater core being higher, made me giggle. Nuclear energy is safe, clean and cheap? Things are seldom as they seem and rarely as others would have you believe.

 

The hoses, not the core, but maybe the 4 banger is different, don’t know.
Anyways each can have the choice

 

Congratulations, your post is the first stating "I dont know"