Coolant Reservoir Bubbling and Filling Up.

When you pull the heads, have a machine shop do a valve job, DO NOT MILL THE SURFACE OF THE HEADS your timing will never be correct again. Buy the whole rebuild gasket kit, replace all the gaskets. Replace Cam chain tensioners and timing chain guides, make sure you remove the upper oil pan and clean it out!!!! clean the inside of timing cover, valve covers, follow service guide to the letter on amount of FIPG to use on every seal.

Last suggestion... Pull the motor to do the work.

Ahhh... Take a breath, lol!

 

Problem with buying a new engine is you need to know it's history. If I were you, and have done this many times, before you buy an engine, pull the valve covers, that will tell you alot about how well it was maintained. Also drain the oil, look for metal. If you can, buy an engine from someone you know.

Prime example, I was going to buy this 1GR-FE with only 60k miles, pulled valve covers... it wasn't taken care of... I passed...

 

Regarding chemical block testers, I rented the single and borrowed a twin chamber tester and both did not show yellow color change. Apparently the blue chemical properties expire. The instructions on the twin unit said to test the blue agent against CO2 exhaled into your hand.
You can see the bubbles in the upper twin unit as the coolant is rising into the bottom section. In addition to removing coolant from the top radiator I got extra space to expand buy using the The no spill funnel adaptor

 

The funnel is a no mess way to check for bubbles

 

that overflow is dirty, is it on the out side or inside?

 

Its oil residue in the coolant. I'm certain on a headgasket very soon. Results back from last week's oil sample and no evidence of a head gasket leaking into the crankcase. No appreciable loss of of oil or coolant either. It was gurgling in cooler weather but since it's been hot I've not heard that.

 

Did oil test results have high levels of sodium?

 

Is there an excessive amount of moisture coming from the tailpipe?

 

Any chance that sheen in the coolant is fuel, not oil? Does it have any smell to it?

 

They indicate normal. Tail pipe is super clean but not emitting white smoke. Radiator cap deposit feels gummy. I didn't smell it.

 

Hmm, have to think on this one, I'd buy something like this, and scope the cylinders (I have 3 of them, I buy old HTC M7 phones of eBay for like $30 and use as monitors, so if you drop it, no worries, but you can use any old phone) you hook the USB endoscope to a phone or laptop and you can scope the cylinders through the spark plug hole. You can record the video and/or take snap shots. You can use for a million other things to. It's less than $20.

 

Thanks. I'll give that a try

 

Then what's the problem? Why do you think you have a headgasket problem? Just the bubbles and oily rad cap?

If your coolant level is not going down over time I would not suspect a headgasket issue

 

I would take it on a high way ride and when it starts to over heat, take a sample of the vapors

 

When I saw the oily residue a couple weeks ago I confirmed a slight coolant loss. The tail pipe looks super clean but no visible vapor. Changed the oil and sent to Blackstone Lab.
Topped the oil level next day and will check it Saturday.

Thanks for the suggestion. You have a more detailed procedure? Speed, time, miles, Etc. Do I send you the vapor sample?
Will pull the plugs this weekend and check the cylinders with the borescope as per
jboudreaux1965

 

If it starts to overheat it will once you exit the interstate and come to a stop.

 

I like this test

 

For the above method, wouldn't it be a good idea to disable the fuel pump by pulling the relay?

 

I had a turbo Neon that only overpressurized the system under boost. It would then lose coolant and overheat

We hooked up the gas tester to the overflow line and hit the highway, running it hard, everything fine. Get down on the feeder and temp. came up, got out and looked, sure enough gas test was showing bad H.Gask.

I wouldn't have thought to just hook to the overflow barb/bib.

 

Got this far today with the borscope camera checking both rear cylinders.
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