Coolant temp rose 30 degrees after water pump/thermostat change?

I just changed the water pump, timing belt, thermostat, etc on my 2000 tacoma with 100k miles. I am a nerd I frequently hook up my odb reader on my truck and check the specs. For the past month at idle the coolant temp would be 168-173. Driving around it never got over 180 while its 50-60 degrees outside. During the summer when its 110 degrees out, the truck would rarely get over 200 degrees.
Now after the parts replacement, the temp hovers between 190-208 and its roughly 40-50 degrees out.
I tested the old thermostat and its stamped with 89c/180f. It starts opening at 170+ish and fully opened at 180. I haven't tested the new oe thermostat that is currently in the truck.
I filled the truck with tap water for a test to make sure that I didn't leak $70 of coolant onto my driveway. I am going to pull the new thermostat and test it and possibly put the old one back in for shiggles. I also put the new thermostat in with the jiggle valve facing up but I have read that 6 o'clock is correct for the tacoma. The cooling system appears to be fully burped although it was a tad difficult to do.
Any suggestions?
Is 200 correct and the old 170 incorrect? The needle on the dash does appear to be a little higher than normal. It used to be at almost a perfect right angle.
Thanks.
Travis

 

Flip the jiggle valve. It makes at least a 10 degree difference.

 

Jiggle down for the 5vz, up for the 3rz. Definitely start by flipping it.

 

Yes, jiggle valve at the 6 o'clock position not the 12 o'clock position. Are you running the Toyota red coolant or the pink coolant? Our trucks should have the red coolant with distilled water. Pink coolant is for vehicles 2004 and newer and is premixed, no water necessary.

 

That's a new one I haven't come across. Last time I did a coolant change, I was being lazy and just used toyota's premix.

Hmmm...

 

I run pink with no issue. I believe 03-04 came stock with pink, hell my oem replacement radiator had a sticker saying pink

 

Jiggle down!?! What! I've been doing 3.4 timing belts since 2005. Frig. Even the manual says it. Thankfully not a big deal, but its the right way to do it.

 

Yes if you look it up in the FSM, it will tell you. I believe the pink coolant came out in 2005.

 

You can test it with distilled water. I believe I paid $1 per gallon at walmart. I generally shy away from using tap in the cooling system.

 

Thanks for the replies. I am going to spin the thermostat around so that the jiggler is down. Does anyone know why that would make a difference?
As to the tap water, What's wrong with that for a few day test? I am glad that I used it versus toyota $ 60 of toyota red. As for red versus pink. The toyota folk said that the newer, 2005ish, use pink. They said that pink works or is okay in all years whereas you don't want to use red in the newer years.

Since we are talking. What type of atf is used in the 2000 tacoma v6, automatic trans? How many quart's can I safely drain via the trans cooler line going into the radiator?
Thanks,
Travis

 

Tap water is not purified and can contaminate your system with minerals and other stuff. As others have mentioned, distilled water would be ideal. It's very cheap to buy @ walmart or store of your choice. Given that you have tap water in there currently, I would suggest a drain and fill with distilled water prior to replacing it with the proper coolant (red).

As for ATF- I am running Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Timmy has great videos on a drain and fill (just emptying the transmission pan) as well as disconnecting the cooler line. Check out his videos, they'll have all the info you need.

Personally, I just went with a drain and fill. A little less than 4.5 quarts came out. I didn't have any issues mixing the old with new fluid. I'm going to do a few more drain and fills over the course of a few thousand miles.

 

That 30 degree change sounds like it was in the correct direction. You want to be up around 190-200. That's not like a "danger zone" or anything. I'm going to guess the temp gauge needle never leaves the 12 o'clock position?

All its going to do is get you a little better gas mileage

 

Thanks for the replies. I pulled the thermostat and tested it in hot water. It starts to open in the 190 range and is fully open at 200 degrees whereas the old one opens closer to 170.
I am going to install it with the jiggler faced down and see if there is a running temp difference. Old one on the right

 

How long have you had the truck? Sounds like your first time doing the water pump and t-stat. Did it have evidence it had been done before? OEM should be a 180. SC folks usually run a 170. 190-200 opening is too high.

 

I also drained and filled 3 times in short successions and won't be touching the transmission fluid for at least another 30k. The system I believe holds 12qts and you drain about 4qts from the pan.

 

I have had the truck for 3 years. Bought the parts for this job 3 years ago and have been meaning to change the timing belt/ water pump since then. I had been noticing a slight coolant smell for the past month and decided to do it over the weekend.
I figured the belt/ pump had never been changed since it only had 70ish k miles when I bought it but the old pump appears to be after market even though the pump was embossed with Toyota and aisin. The pump had a recessed Grove for an o ring or sealant versus flat and a metal gasket with the new one. The old pump was leaking.

I just flipped the thermostat and it's hovering at 188 degrees, ten degrees cooler than before. I am still wondering how the jiggler at the bottom makes a ten degree difference but it appears to.
I will include picks of the old pump. It's it a counterfeit oe pump?

Since we are here. I am planning on doing plugs and wires, etc. Anything else that I should do? As I recall, a few of the plugs are tough to get to without removing some brackets or something. And suggestions?
Oh, my wiper fluid level dash light is on and the fluid is full. Is this a known problem?

 

The coil closest to the firewall on the driver's side is a real pain to get to. I had to remove the two ground wires on the manifold and a few other items to be able to pull it out.

A list of things that you should probably look into.

Lower ball joints, your upper should be fine with such low mileage
Clean steering reservoir screen
Drain and fill all diffs and xfer case
Air filter
Clean MAF
Grease all ujoints front and back
Check brakes pads/rotors/drums front and back
Flushed brake fluid, don't forget the proportioning valve
Fuel filter
Replace spare tire if it's old
Is the valve cover leaking oil? If so, dive into that which gives you an opportunity to replace old rubber hoses and check valve lash.

This is just off the top of my head but I'm sure there are more.