Coolant temp sender (title updated) is giving me guff

I removed it because I noticed a crush washer piece, almost like it broke down over time. At least I believe this was the one. I “say” that because now it won’t thread back in all the way & now i’m wondering if i’m making this up & it’s actually supposed to sit like this (1st pic).
Or am I thinking of the thermostat sensor? (I think that’s what it is). (2nd pic)

 

So you removed a sensor, because you thought something broke off from it, only to find out nothing did?

Here's my ECT when I replaced it





No need to mess with it unless it fails; then when it does you can just buy a new one (I wouldn't reinstall the old one). They're cheap anyway.

 

Thank you. Good advice. & apologies. I wasn't clear per usual. I guess my main question is, is the sensor toward the back (1st pic) of the intake cover supposed to tighten in more? It stops easily threading in as it is in the pic.

 

Yeah I noticed your first pic, it's backed out pretty far.

Even then, the washer (cardboard/paper?) is thin and wouldn't need all that much room to fit.

Is the first pic and the second the same location?

Why does the first pic not have a connection but instead some sort of spade up top?

 

No. They are not of the same part.

The 1st pic is at the back of the intake cover. This is the connector.



Maybe this’ll help as to its location....

 

Npt threads are tapered so its will never sit flush. Also needs teflon tape or some sealant on the threads ideally

 

No you don`t ever use teflon tape or sealer unless the sealer is conductive to electric unless you don`t want it to work on sensors that ground into where they get threaded.

Is it the correct temp sensor for the truck they are Not National Pipe Thread they are Metric ??

Where did the new sensor come from ?? Sadly in this day far to much gets boxed wrong even if it is the correct part number.

 

Disregard everything I mentioned above.

The thread title said temp sensor; I assumed ECT.

 

The scary part is the names get interchanged all to often .

The ECT has the 2 wire plug the temp gauge has the one wire plug.

Which I am sure you know.

 

Yeah, that's why I was like wtf...

What confused me were the two different pictures.

The ECT sensor is a special little shithead, needing to take off that tube that connects the fuel rail, as you know too

If it wasn't for that sensor, and the leaf spring bolts (between OEM, Dakar, and General Springs) I wouldn't have so many varying deep and regular depth 19-22mm sockets

 

These are actually the original sensors.

 

Ok. So it is not supposed to thread all the way in? "It" being the engine temp sender? Did I get it right? & no thread tape.

& the other one, the 2nd pic, is the ECT? & just a crush washer. no tape either?

 

The coolant temperature sensor is the one located under the tube connected between the fuel rail; has two wires. This is the sensor used for engine management.

The single wire one is simply a coolant temperature sender, telling your gauge where it should read.

 

I found this is the '96 FSM
Since I confused the issue here, I was still unsure whether to use anything on the sender. Still can't find a torque spec though. Just seeing's how it doesn't thread all the way in, I don't want to snap it of course. Hand tight should work I guess.
I'll change the title just in case anyone ever does a search for this....

 

One of those things you get a feel for over the years how to tighten things and not break them after breaking everything possible .

Since you had this Truck brand new off the Toyota Dealers Lot you know that was the original temperature gauge sending unit and was never replaced.

 

Actually I bought it with 80,000. However, when I checked the (can't think of the wording) history on it prior to purchase, it seems as though the dealer decided to make it a co truck when the 1st owner traded it in.

 

You're way over thinking it.

That gauge in your truck isn't accurate anyway, so it doesn't matter how you run that sender.

I do however, suggest you run a separate monitoring system so you really know whether you're running hot or not.

 

So it won't leak anything (air? fluid?)? I mean that's the main reason for my looking for whether to use a "sealer" of sorts, as well as how tight it should be.

(I'll have to get back to this later on the other two things you stated.)

 

Sensors like that have pipe threads on them to aid with sealing. Pipe threads are tapered for that reason. opinions vary as to the use of teflon tape or sealant. I like to use something, but I have installed them before without sealant or tape, and they held.

 

I noticed my gauge stopped working after changed my valve cover gasket. Didn’t even know this existed. Now I have a P0170 code. Wonder is that has anything to do with it. Need to triple check.