Cooling Question

For 4.0 V - 6. Has anyone notice how long the engine takes to go from "stone cold" to its designed operating temperature? I know there is a lot of variable factors to consider i.e., ambient temperature, thermostat rating, general condition and age of cooling system components. Thanks in advance.

 

Mine only takes a few min of driving, idling it takes awhile but that's pretty normal.

Operating temp for the 4.0 is about 180F

 

About 10’mins of driving

 

The 4.0 warms up pretty quick. About 5-7 min for me. Depending on the weather outside.

my 2015 accord on the other hand….takes forever. Hate it. Lol I want the heather in the mornings.

 

Mine take around 8 min of driving in the summer, i know the torque converter lock only when the engine is over ~50c, and it's around the same spot everytime when i go to work, when it's cold maybe 12-14 min. I love this motor, when it's -30c, you get good hot air in minute and the engine still not at working temperature.

 

The thought of this has been rattling around in the space between my ears.

Mine rarely gets driven during the week. Very rarely more than 7 miles from home. Get it on the highway maybe 3x a year. Trying to avoid the milky oil fill cap.

So if more than 2 months pass, I’ll take it on the highway & try to get it past *edit* lotsa mph a couple times. Or run it up a close by small mountain making a couple hard pulls close to red line. This has worked to rid the milky oil cap.

I’ve been considering adding a coolant temp and oil temp gauges so I’ll know when things reach operating temperature.

 

No need to push it that hard. Just drive normally for 20-25 miles above 50 mph on a regular basis.

 

10mins?

A trick I Learned was to put the heater on full blast, and the moment you feel hot air not warm HOT air.
That means the coolant is hot enough through the heater core, and so will the engine oil.
Providing a good guesstimate that everything is warmed up.

 

So is this a general nice to know question or are you having any issue(s).
You are correct on outside temps, how you drive, and depends on mileage and coolant condition, thermostat and radiator cap original or been replaced.
If an 07 all should be changed/replaced by now. Is it at operating temp look at the gauge it will be in the middle.

As a note caps come in various pressures and stamped on OEMs. My standard one was a 16 lbs (108 kPa) radiator cap #16401-31650 about $15.
Toyota super long life coolant pink 2 gal 50/50 mixed #

$55 00272SLLC2 Set of 2 Toyota-Scion Engine Coolant / Antifreeze Genuine 00272SLLC2

00272SLLC2 about $20 each.
Toyota water inlet sub assembly with thermostat #

$50 16031-0P010 TOYOTA Genuine Parts - Inlet Sub-Assy, Wate (16031-0P010)

16031-0P010 about $35.

 

if you want something that warms up fast that reduces emissions using
-coolant valves that go bad
-smart ECM mapping
-set to run hotter
-thermal management strategy
-2 piece electric fan
-additional heat generating components like a turbo
-cramped engine bay
-a bunch of insulating plastic cover panels

get a German car

oil takes miles longer than coolant to reach operating temp.

warm air means coolant and heater core is warm. Not oil.

If you add a gauge like older vehicles have you will see this.

next time you rent a car for a day that still has an oil temp gauge like a BMW watch how long it takes to warm. Then realize the Tacoma (which also likely has more oil capacity) takes longer than that.

 

I have the milky oil cap every winter since i have the truck. I drive maybe 50 miles every week. I live near my job so if i want to burn all the condensation i need to do a detour.

I do oil analysis every oil change ( ~ 6 month or 5-6k Km). The result show that i have < .1% water in the oil so no problem with my short driving. In the winter temperature can be between -10c and can drop to -32c. The problem i had was fuel dilution in the oil, now i let the truck idleling instead of turing it off if i need to drive again like after 5-10 min. This helped to stop the dillution with no effect on soot, only oxidation started to rise but there no change on the viscosity so the chemical in the oil do the job.

The oil cap is high on the engine and since it's made of plastic i think it's the first thing to cool down. The engine made of metal tend to distribute the heat around but the oil cap is isolated. The hot/humid oily air stick to it and for an unknowing owner this can raise a series of question.

If you are worried do an oil analysis, you will know for sure if it's affecting your oil. If your oil dipstick is foamy theres a problem if not i think your good if you do regular OCI.

If you want and oil pressure/temp gauge, check the URD oil sandwich plate, i think there another product make by Glowshift (i think). You will have 2 port ready to put oil and pressure sensor and you can keep the oem pressure switch alone. I think the oem pressure switch T is some kind of british weird thread and some people have cracked the thread when playing with it. I think the sandwich it's the best no stress route to take if you want to add these 2 sensor.

 

Mine takes about two miles of driving steady at 40mph. Weather its 40°f or 60°f. This is after a 1min idle while i set some music.

It starts defogging my windshield right at the same cross street every morning and i can turn my wipers off.

 

If you have short cold trips you can add a catch can. A $30 one has a dipstick, requires manual emptying when you do an oil change, and runs the risk of appearing “modified” during a smog check.

or for $300+ you can get fancy with a Mann ProVent 200 that has a replaceable swirl filter, and add a one way drain back valve/hose to send any oil caught back into the engine, so there is no oil to empty out every change.

 

I had the forbidden latte this past winter.. Catch can got it all

 

Thanks for yours and everybody's replies. The reason I asked is that after much looking, including researching the TW archives I could not find the answer to what would seem like a simple question. I just did a major R&R of my cooling system, and it was bothering me about the warmup time, was it too fast? Well now I know I'm in the ballpark with everyone else. Everything is tight and cool and running smooth, thanks again.

 

Depends on the weather, when it's -20s outside even revving to its redline will keep it stone cold, when it's 20° outside it'll take 2-3 minutes of driving and mb 10-15 minutes of idling

 

The Tacoma temperature gauge is worthless. It tells you the engine is on. It stays in the same spot from 180°F to over 200°.
Get an OBDII transmitter and app.