Core-Shifter for 3rd Gen V6

So, I think I just realized I mounted my stick "wrong". Is the stick supposed to connect to the sub lever on the shifter on the smooth side or the tooth/ridges side? Because I definitely mounted it up against the "tooth" side. What are the ridges on the right side for? I thought they were intended to help keep the stick in place. Honestly, I like the position of the way the stick is a little more to the right... any issues keeping it mounted this way?

 

I think it's supposed to be tooth to tooth or ridge to ridge. I don't think it'd be a problem.

I added a picture of mine to this post

 

I had my stick mounted on the serrated side, the right side (opposite of yours). I contacted Chris at Core and he said this...

Whether or not that would actually happen, I didn't want to chance it so I re-mounted it on the smooth, left side (like your picture). Didn't take long to do an allowed me to add a little more sound dampening to the stick (not sure it did much).

Thanks for the pic! This helps ease my mind that I did indeed have it mounted on the wrong side for this stick.

 

Thanks again to everyone on here that helped me decide to pull the trigger! Just installed it yesterday, super straightforward besides those two front bolts. I bought a crows foot set, but instead used a 12mm on 1/4” drive with a Kobalt u-jointed wobbly to get the front two bolts broken loose and torqued back in. Worked like a charm!


Little noisy but it really doesn’t bother me. It’s loudest to me in the city, and generally my truck is loud in the city so no harm there. I may try and add some sound deadening and add a gasket between the shifter base and the hurst stick. Love the short throws, the feedback that the stock one deadens so much, the slightly more driver-centric position, and how much easier the shifts feel! Also the reduced wobbliness will be a huge huge help off the pavement - hated the amount the stock one would move on bumps. Here’s my install - stock shifter with the Scott Drake adapter from Holly:

 

Nice work man! Total side subject... I assume you have a powered rear-view mirror (has a compass and auto dims?)... they sell some wire taps to tap into the power of your rear view to power your radar detector. They work quite well and really clean up the placement and install of radar detectors.

Anyways, glad this thread has been helping people getting the right equipment for the installation. I can't stress enough that having the right tools (especially for those two bolts at the back) makes this installation so much easier than it can be.

 

Yes, auto-dims and has the dash compass (2019 TRDOR). I’ll look into that, would definitely be nice to have the cigarette outlet for other things. Sad it doesn’t have two outlets like my 2nd Gen did...

Is it this thread? Seems stupid simple!
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-my-radar-and-tapped-the-mirror-power.427388/

 

Yup! That's the one. They sell those cables with the pins for pretty much every radar detector. They even sell some mounts too. I have a dash cam mounted up there as well and had to get creative with tapping into power. I have my radar detector using those pins and then actually tapped into the same power wire under the upper console to get some more power out of there. Everything is super clean. You will lose the mute button on your cig-lighter adapter but I'm not sure that's super important to you. Here's a couple pics and then let's get this thread back on track....

 

would anyone be able to show your movement (up and down) in Neutral .... i have this strange up and down movement now and i could have sworn it was tighter every which way

 

in this thread, and another video below it but probably less helpful..
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/core-shifter-for-3rd-gen-v6.589705/page-20#post-25919593

 

I posted this video a few days ago... does this help? 409

 

I seen those , I’m looking for the up and down motion while in neutral …. Not rowing thru the gears . So essentially the side to side motion but up and down while not going into gear

 

i have accommodated you.
at the end you can see on normal light touch there is essentially no play at all. the movement you see here is from the transmission, no looseness in the shifter.

 

I made a vid for clarification
https://youtube.com/shorts/JmOLQ6ocmI8?feature=share


I figured it out…. I went back in, the bolts with the lock washers fatigued and lost some bite and became sightly loose, I hit it with locktite and torqued it tight… hoping it doesn’t vibrate it self loose with the locktite

 

Does anyone know the interval for the manual transmission fluid change and the transfer case and axles as well? My truck has 48xxx miles and to my knowledge the dealership has never changed the manual transmission fluid or others besides oil?

I only ask in here because I can't find intervals anywhere. Even my owners manual.

 

First post is long, but has the info you're asking for.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-diy-maintenance-quick-reference.406712/#post-11409469

 

Does an icon leaf pack that adds a 2-2.5 lift in the back make a difference for the length of the stick bracket you choose? The website says that only body to frame mount spacers make a difference. I also plan to add a bilstein 6112-5160 suspension upgrade.

 

@TacoJeff19, I had this same question. I ended up asking my dealer to replace the transfer case and transmission oil at 30k mainly because I want to "flush" out the shavings that get built up over the miles. I don't do anything severe so this will probably be my last change of these fluids until well over 60k. The new synthetic oils last a lot longer than they used to and the only reason I had them change it at 30k was to get rid of any of that loose stuff that comes off during the first few years of ownership. I also had them replace the rear diff oil. At 60k, I'll have them replace the front diff oil and then be pretty much good for many years to come.

You'll use the standard stick. Suspension lifts don't change the position of the transmission in relationship to the cab/body. Only body lifts separate and create distance from the frame (and everything attached to it such as the transmission) to the body. So, put a 10" suspension lift if you want... you still would be using the standard stick that they recommend. Only time you'd need to consider a different length stick is for a body lift or simply for preference.

 

Shit, you changed at 30k. I'm almost at 60K on both diffs, transfer case, and manual transmission.

I asked a dealer to swap the driveline fluids at 50k and they quoted me like $1000 so I said fuck that.

I probably need to change mine but I also do mainly highway.

 

For the transfer case and transmission, I think I paid around $200. They changed the rear diff fluid as part of my Toyota Care Plus. I believe that just leaves the front diff which should be another $100 or so. At my dealership, for $1000, I could've gotten ALL fluids changed including brake/clutch fluid, etc... Your dealer is ripping you off big time. Find another one.

With all that said, even at 60k, you're probably fine. I'm just a bit anxious with getting that first fluid change on the drive line systems done sooner than later as contaminants are more likely to be floating around since the truck was built. After this first fluid swap, I'm planning on not really thinking about it again for another 60k.

 

It wasn't my usual dealership. This one is known to screw unaware customers. I just had no choice of another because I had a 1400 mile road trip coming up in the truck.

Definitely would like to swap in some redline at least in my transmission soon and something nice in my diffs and transfer case soon. I'm gonna start doing most of my own maintenance here soon. Tired of dealerships.