Couple notes on Cruise Control Install

I wanted to add Cruise Control to my 2013 2.7L Base. I already did the intermittent wiper switch, and since I was digging into the column, wanted to do the CC.

Here’s some info that may help others that I have found/learned (at least for my 2013 AUTOMATIC).

I won’t go into the nitty gritty on kits/install, as there are plenty of resources for that. I got mine off a seller on fleabay, and it included the stalk, stalk wiring, wiring for clock spring to ECU, an additional horn wire, and even the factory cover with the hole to replace the hole-less cover on the steering wheel – all for about $100. The additional horn wire, though not really needed, makes it easier than transferring the existing horn wire over to the new connector.

1. There are 2 OEM clock springs (at least for my year):
a. 84306-04080. If you DON’T have steering wheel audio controls
b. 84306-0E010. If you DO have steering wheel audio controls

NOTE – I have found aftermarket listings that state either with or without CRUISE CONTROL, but after looking at the pics and research, I believe it’s a parts listing misnomer and they actually mean with/without AUDIO controls (there is an additional socket on the clock spring for “with” audio controls). The caveat to this is I haven’t bought any aftermarket clock spring to test this theory out, so I’m not 100% that the pins are connected input to output.

2. For 2013 (and I believe other years), it’s NOT plug and play with the stalk, as it is missing the critical wires that go from the clock spring output to the ECU. You can readily tell if you’re missing the wires by looking at the S8 connector at the bottom of the clock spring. If so, you will have to run the wires from the S8 connector (pin 1 & 2) to the ECU connector E22 (for the 2TR-FE/2.7L) (pin 14), so make sure your kit has the additional wires.

a. S8 pin 1 goes to E22 pin 14 (for my model (2TR-FE / I can’t vouch for other years/models)

b. S8 pin 2 goes to a good ground

When I installed my kit, it initially did not work (ARRRRGGGHH). I diagnosed it as a bad connection from the input of the clock spring to the output. The horn worked fine. If I manually shorted the wires at the output going to the ECU/ground, the cruise light illuminated. There was no continuity from the input pin to output pin of the clock spring. To check clock spring continuity:

Horn: Pin 2 of 4 pin connector > Pin 8 of S8

Cruise: Pin 3 of 4 pin connector > Pin 1 of S8 / Pin 4 of 4 pin connector > Pin 2 of S8

4 pin connector in steering wheel (in)


S8 connector under clock spring (out)


So, if your clock spring is old, you may want to check for continuity in the clock spring before you install, so you know if you have to get a new one and save having to remove the airbag, etc. again. Note – the horn worked fine/had continuity, which is the only other function of the particular 4 pin connector used by the cruise control under the steering pad. Also note that regardless of which clock spring version you use, the input only has 3 pins – 1 for the horn circuit, and 2 for cruise control – the S8 output connector can have more. My S8 only had 1 coming out for the horn circuit.

I just got the OEM 04080 since it was only $137 shipped from Conicelli and for something like the clock spring, I didn’t want to get hit with the issues some have come across with cheap aftermarket ones. If I needed the MUCH more expensive 0E010, I may have gone aftermarket - but definitely not fleabay, maybe and SKP or Standard Motor, but I think the SKP (and the other “Economy” models on Rockauto) is actually from the same manufacturer as the Dorman ones, and I’ve had bad experiences with Dorman stuff.

 

I had to swap my clock spring out for one to get the CC to work when adding it on my truck, which was prewired but came without steering wheel controls. I bought a used one out of a Prius for around 50 bucks. Cheaper alternative and still OEM parts. Got mine off of ebay