Couple of Questions

I've been chasing a P0302 code which popped up yesterday. I got lucky and a new plug and different wire fixed the problem. I'm looking at two different plug wire sets. which would be your choice. I also purchased six of these dual prong NGK Standard Copper Spark Plug 3967 at autozone.

1.

$37 Denso 671-6182 Spark Plug Wire Set

https://www.amazon.com/Denso-671-6182-Spark-Plug-Wire/dp/B000EQ95OC#customerReviews

2.

$45 NGK 4412 Tailor Magnetic Core Wires

https://www.amazon.com/NGK-4412-Tai...37------------&vehicleName=2003+Toyota+Tacoma

My truck is due for the Inspection here in N.C. next month, which starts tomorrow. Do I have to drive the truck X number of miles or for a week or so before I take it down for the inspection. I've cleared the code with my Scan Gauge, but does the ECU keep it stored for any set period of time or miles?

Thanks to all that posted their P0302 and similar problems here on TW. Made my trouble shooting very simple. I'm jus glad it wasn't the fuel injector.

 

I would get Toyota, comes with all of the clips etc which often break on removal of the old set.

 

my 2 cents- denso.

Re having to drive the truck. Here in CA, all they do after a certain age is hook up to the computer- no more tail pipe testing. For this to work, the ECU has to have performed all it's monitors (test). I had an older reader which would display out if all the tests were complete, but I haven't had to do that on the Scan gauge yet. It does look like there are instructions to do so: https://www.scangauge.com/tips-tricks/finding-incomplete-obdii-tests/ It looks like finding out if all the tests have run is easy, but figuring out which ones haven't is hard.

I found that I needed to drive around 60 miles before I satisfied all the tests.

 

If you clear a code, you also reset all the emissions monitors. So the code will stay gone until the emission monitors reset, and if the problem is still there then the code will pop back up.

This is why some places like in CA they don't only check for codes, they also check to make sure your monitors are set/green. Because otherwise you could just clear your codes and pass without the issue really being gone.

You can check the status of your monitors with your Scangauge, it's kind of a pain though...I forget the exact sequence you have to put into it but it's on their website. When I installed a new battery last year it took forever for my catalyst monitor to reset, over 1500 miles of driving actually. Nearly missed my registration deadline because of it.

 

yeah luckily 2000 and up doesn't need a tailpipe/dyno test done here anymore, thankfully because that's a whole 'other headache to have to deal with

 

Based on my experience on my Subaru, the NGK plug boots fit better. The Amazon reviews indicate two of the Denso wires are shorter than OEM, so there's that too. NGK may be cheaper/more available on Rock Auto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=946396&cc=1418453&pt=7224&jsn=416

Codes are cleared instantly by the scan tool. However, the ECU will take time to go through a drive cycle and complete all the monitors. Drive for a few days, then go in for the inspection.

 

I’d go with Denso as mentioned above, as for the inspection that’ll depend on the inspection station if they require it to have some miles on since it cleared the code. Sometimes they don’t care but I think the last time they told me in NC it needed show at least like 15-20 miles since cleared for them to be okay with it. That’s if the scan gauge cleared that portion out of the ECU or not. Some codes are not that deep into it and would show no different. Just mention it when you go in there that you recently cleared a code they can let you know pretty quickly.

 

you should be able to get the NGK ones from the parts chains locally, fitment is great. That would be my first choice over NGK/Denso on Amazon, too many fake parts there these days IMO

 

Thanks for the reply's, I took it for a short drive today, and it ran fine, but a 50 mile or so road trip is set for tomorrow or Wednesday. I was concerned if the NGK wire had the correct coil attachment that snaps into place. You can't tell from the pics I've seen online. Still might consider "Toyota" set but they are a little pricey.

 

I've replaced my wires recently with OEM wires. Expensive compared to others, maybe... However, I have helped friends with aftermarket wires, and I have experienced issues with those wires. Specifically, that the drivers side plug connectors "stuck" to the plugs, and that the caps separated from the lower section. It made me question their quality and overall ability to transfer the juice to the plug. 100% in one case, simply removing an NGK wire and reseating it fixed a misfire. I thought things were toast, and that I'd be on the hook for replace this persons wires, but I was able to get all the pieces back together, and low-and-behold, a disconnect / reconnect, set things right. I've never had issues like that with OEM cables over the course of many spark plug changes, and I wouldn't consider anything but Toyota replacements- but that's just my experience and my opinion. There are several people who haven't had issues with non-OEM wires. YMMV.

 

only use oem. smog test will pop up if you disconected battery or if it aas cleared. My 97 they stick a pipe down the exhaust.

 

Just replaced my plug wires with the blue NGK set from Amazon. Perfect fit.

 

I’ve been happy with my NGK wire set and three separate boots w/ no wires. They’ve been installed for years without issue.

 

Well thanks for the reply's everyone, New Spark plug cables are on order. I went ahead and splurged and purchased Toyota OEM. I figured if these last this long then why not buy them again. Besides they come with the cable minders which I could use right now.
I used to buy nothing but NGK blue wires for all my GM vehicles from 1973-1999, when I sold my 1977 GMC Jimmy 4x4. I sure do miss working on those easy peasy American made 350 ci engines. You younger dudes think these Tacoma's are easy, you missed out on the best years of American Made Cars and Trucks.

Going over to my neighbors to see if I can help him out. Valve cover gasket job on 1999 3.4l.

Have a great day and a fabulous week ahead of you for those that still work. Be safe out there, the world has gone insane.