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Covering the holes on doors. Any deadener installers past/present welcome

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by Jimirich, May 12, 2009.

  1. May 12, 2009 at 1:52 AM
    #1
    Jimirich

    Jimirich [OP] Well-Known Member

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    DTRL, Debadged, Donkey tethered in the bed that rips 142 db farts so I can piss off the neighbors and rattle the windows on my house when I'm parked in front.
    So I got lots of damplifier pro on the doors. Here's the pass. front:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Really, the doors are feelin kinda heavy and I'm seriously concerned that if I make em any heavier they'll fall off in about ten years. I will most likely pull some off.
    The thing is I still have to seal the holes on the inner skin. I sealed some of the smaller holes with the damplifier pro. I originally planned to get some perforated plastic or aluminum, cover it with damplifier and then screw it on with small self tapping sheet metal screws. I got some plastic and aluminum:

    [​IMG]
    I got this plastic canvas at a Ben Franklin's craft shop.
    This stuff is pretty stiff and I'm sure it would hold up. a preliminary stick test demosntrated that the Damplifier would stick to it.
    I also got some perforated aluminum sheeting. I think this is used as bottom panels on screen doors cause I found it near the screen door section at Ace Hardware:
    [​IMG]
    That sheet is about 2'x3'. its fairly lightweight.
    So I had the door panel off and was thinkin of how to seal up the holes on the inner skin.
    I really dont want to add any more weight if I can help it.
    Well when I was taking off the original sheet of plastic on the doors I cut it off carefully. First I cut out the plastic very close to the black caulking and then pulled off the plastic pressed on the caulking while skinning the black butyl caulking with a razor. (kinda like skinning a fish.) The point was to save as much plastic and caulking in case I wanted to use it to seal anything later on. So I did reuse the plastic and caulking on the biggest opening in the door and it looked like this:
    [​IMG]
    But then I was thinking that the plastic would most likely vibrate and be noisy. And then I thought that if the only point is to really seal the hole maybe I could put the same black caulking seal down and then press the ensolite down around the openings when I apply the ensolite.
    Your all probably bored to sheet by now but I was wondering if anyone else could share how they covered the door holes. I spoke with Marv today and he said he just slaps two sheets of damplifier(Raamat)on. One inside and one out. I could do that but I really dont want to add more weight to the doors.
    The ensolite will be here tomorrow and I'm gonna start installing the new system after I get the door hole issue sorted out.
    Flame on Boys!!! Lets hear it.
     
  2. May 12, 2009 at 7:01 AM
    #2
    GoBlueFan

    GoBlueFan Well-Known Member

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    I took some sheet metal and cut 3 filler panels to fit and liquid nailed them to the door. Then put the RAAMmat over the top of it. Pretty much a solid door panel now.

    I'll take pics of it when I do the drivers door this weekend.
     
  3. May 12, 2009 at 7:32 AM
    #3
    hendooman

    hendooman The Stroker Ace

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    I put two sheets inside and outside like Marv did...I am not worried about the weight. I used RAAM and the product is great. THe sound my door makes when it closes is night and day different. When you tap onthe outside of the door it is solid, not tinny like when you tap the quarter panels. I am really glad I did all the RAAM, even though it costs me about 20 cuts on my hands! But cuts heal, and scars are tough!
     
  4. May 12, 2009 at 10:02 AM
    #4
    Jimirich

    Jimirich [OP] Well-Known Member

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    DTRL, Debadged, Donkey tethered in the bed that rips 142 db farts so I can piss off the neighbors and rattle the windows on my house when I'm parked in front.
    I'm gonna try the ensolite seal on one door, plastic on another door and see how if there's a difference.
     
  5. May 12, 2009 at 11:57 AM
    #5
    Coheednme13

    Coheednme13 Well-Known Member

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    You could do two things that won't add significant weight. First that hole above your 6x9 just add a layer of damplifier over that it's not that large. For the other holes you would cut some aluminum flashing and put a bead of silicone on the back and put some self-tapping screws. The other option you could do is what I did. You could tape over the holes and fiberglass over the holes and make a template of the hole that is an exact fit then use self-tapping screws to attach it. I did this because I already had all of the fiberglassing stuff therefore it saved me a trip to lowes and since it molds to whatever shape it is applied to I didn't have to cut and check over and over with flashing.


    Just my 0.02

    I have pics if you need them
     
  6. May 12, 2009 at 9:53 PM
    #6
    Jimirich

    Jimirich [OP] Well-Known Member

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    DTRL, Debadged, Donkey tethered in the bed that rips 142 db farts so I can piss off the neighbors and rattle the windows on my house when I'm parked in front.
    Coheed I got plenty of fiber glassing material. I'll check out your pics.
     
  7. May 12, 2009 at 10:06 PM
    #7
    DanGer

    DanGer Avatar approved by 98tacomav6

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    White Head Light mod, White shorty antennae, Doug Thorley Long Tube headers, AFE Drop in air filter, Secondary Air Filter Removed,
    I am missing something! What gains to you get from filling in the hole?
     
  8. May 13, 2009 at 12:44 AM
    #8
    Jimirich

    Jimirich [OP] Well-Known Member

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    DTRL, Debadged, Donkey tethered in the bed that rips 142 db farts so I can piss off the neighbors and rattle the windows on my house when I'm parked in front.
    Its a matter of sealing the door panel(interior of your truck) from water/moisture.
    I don't necessarily want to fill the hole, I want to cover it, watertight.
     
  9. May 13, 2009 at 8:12 AM
    #9
    GoBlueFan

    GoBlueFan Well-Known Member

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    Main reason is to separate and seal off the speaker. The other reason is simply to weatherproof it.
     
  10. May 13, 2009 at 11:51 AM
    #10
    Mr Marv

    Mr Marv 1-831-383-0308 Vendor

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    I just wanted to add that the idea is to seal the speakers back wave from the front wave as opposed to making the door an "enclosure" as I have seen mentioned on some forums. The vast majority of mobile audio speakers (not subs) are designed for infinite baffle and airspace over twice the VAS of the speaker will not have any damping effect on said speaker (your door has more than enough airspace to allow no damping effect on the speaker)
     
  11. May 13, 2009 at 3:59 PM
    #11
    GoBlueFan

    GoBlueFan Well-Known Member

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    agreed, I just didn't mention the front and back wave. Didn't know if that would create more confusion. You're dead on though.:thumbsup:
     
  12. May 16, 2009 at 12:20 PM
    #12
    Jimirich

    Jimirich [OP] Well-Known Member

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    DTRL, Debadged, Donkey tethered in the bed that rips 142 db farts so I can piss off the neighbors and rattle the windows on my house when I'm parked in front.
    So will it be enough if I just put sealing caulk around the opening and press the ensolite down to seal around the opening or do I actually have to solidly seal the opening?
     
  13. May 17, 2009 at 10:09 AM
    #13
    GoBlueFan

    GoBlueFan Well-Known Member

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    Here's mine...the RAMMat will go over the entire panel now.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I'll finish the area around the speaker when I install the compent set in a couple of weeks.
    [​IMG]
    I've already done the passenger door and there is quite a bit of difference between the door that was deadened and sealed compared to the factory door. The sound is much tighter compared to the factory door and it's tin can sound.
     
  14. May 18, 2009 at 8:21 PM
    #14
    Jimirich

    Jimirich [OP] Well-Known Member

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    DTRL, Debadged, Donkey tethered in the bed that rips 142 db farts so I can piss off the neighbors and rattle the windows on my house when I'm parked in front.
    Blue, what did you use to adhere the metal to the openings??
     
  15. May 19, 2009 at 5:35 AM
    #15
    GoBlueFan

    GoBlueFan Well-Known Member

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    good ol fashion liquid nails. That way there would be no metal to metal contact and no rattles. Once the mat is over it all, it's a pretty solid door panel.
     
  16. May 19, 2009 at 6:16 AM
    #16
    Coheednme13

    Coheednme13 Well-Known Member

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    Gobluefan nice work on the deadener you did a great job of getting the deadener into every little nook. How many layers did you do on the inner door face?
     
  17. May 19, 2009 at 6:58 AM
    #17
    GoBlueFan

    GoBlueFan Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I did a single layer on the inside of the door skin and doubled up the area behind the speaker opening. Then on the inner door panel, just a single layer. I'll put the ensolite over the entire panel when I finish the adapters and install the components. That'll be happening in a couple of weeks, speakers and amp show up tomorrow.

    I figured out that using a blue scott's towel was much easier than using plain ol fingers for getting the mat into all the nooks and crannies. The towel slides over the aluminum backing very easy (fingers do not). My hands and forearms were much less fatigued at the end of the day. I did the back wall with my fingers, and that was a PITA. The towel trick would have been nice to know.
     
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