Cracked sheet metal above radiator body bushings

I still suspect the core support cracks are because the front frame rails are flexing.

 

here is your solution...incase everyone hasnt found this yet

https://jdfabrication.com/collections/05-15-6-lug/products/tacoma-inner-fender-replacements

 

Not really... That's just if you want to go even FARTHER to try to address this stuff.
But it doesn't change any of the parts where this issue is actually happening.
...and no, it's not going to help those parts unless you custom fab all of the front stuff anyway. If anything, this would make it worse in the front based on the extra stiffness of these inner fenders.

Maybe it will eventually become clear that it IS necessary to go that far to stop this problem, but only time will tell.

 

I installed the stiffer energy suspension radiator support mount bushings in the front on my 2nd gen as a hopeful preventative measure.

Wonder if the third gen went softer on those for NVH reasons? Either way, it would be another way to incrementally prevent further damage.

 

Not gonna lie, kinda wish I had bought a jeep since I wheel the snot out of my truck.. Though I’m sure they have their own set of issues.

 

Has anyone considered a fiber reinforced wrap bonded to the metal (fiberglass, Kevlar and/or carbon fiber)? The thinking is that it could be a bit more flexible than a steel plate and focalize less stress concentration to the edge of the fix.

 

I've considered deburring the edges/holes. Then spraying with a bed liner type product, or possibly getting a little nutty with seam sealer along the edges and such. The problem with coating it... if the cracks still form, they might not be visible.

 

Welp, time to find a welder. Mine causes a HORRENDOUS noise when accelerating, coming to a stop or taking turns at speed:

 

hello do you happen to know the oem part number for the radiator support mount bushings? Iv been searching and can’t find it

 

A simple technique to stop a crack. Drill a hole at the end of the crack. Stitch weld it back together. Then add the reinforcement.

But remember, even if the crack does not return to the original location, it will find another place outside of the reinforcement to crack.

Consider, stiffer may not be a better choice. Perhaps allowing more flex and give in the frame and supports would allow the wheeling loads to be dissipated before placing fatigue loads on the steel.

 

POLY BUSHINGS. I have been tracking this issue on my own truck and others, and can say that poly bushings DO. NOT. HELP. I think this issue happened to you because you put in poly. My issue was minor, and had a definite start on a particular frame bending event. It collapsed the stock bushings which were old to begin with, then I drove for a long time without knowing they were a problem. When I noticed, I thought poly was the answer but it got exponentially worse very quickly with poly installed. Then installed new stockers again, and haven't noticed more damage in a while.

Get the poly bushings out and put soft rubber ones there. Consider that the 4 main cab bushings support the majority of the weight of the body, and they are much stiffer than the radiator bushings. When those cab bushings flex at all, there is a cantilever effect of how much flex is required up at the radiator bushings, given that the fenders and core support are physically connected to the cab. Combine that with the fact that the tacoma frame is not as strong as you might think, flex is probably designed into it. then we go and put way more weight, suspension, then go offroad and induce tons of flex and forces. The radiator bushings need to be able to flex way more than the cab bushings because of all this. If you stiffen that connection point, the flex will just happen somewhere else, and we all know what happens when you flex steel back and forth over and over - it gets brittle and breaks....

The radiator bushings are there to support the load somewhat, but if you take them out all together (like when replacing them) the core support doesn't just fall to the frame, the fenders and such are held by the cab and the whole core support will just hang there, and flex downward a little. I think the real role of the radiator bushings as more of a dampening function for all the movement that happens between the frame and body, like a loose kind of support, let it flex and move without trying to prevent it. Move with it not against it kind of thing.

I think poly are the opposite to the solution. New OEM cab, with a washer under them to shim up, and new OEM radiator bushings, with the same shim, to give a tiny body lift, is the way to go.

 

This. I agree 100%

 

@snwbrdr852

I just came back to this thread after a long while... posted some thoughts I have. but then realized that you posted those pictures way back in August. Can you give any kind of report on how your fixes are holding up? They look nice and strong, but wondering if the cracks just fount the next weak point which could be farther away somewhere.

I have purchased an aftermarket core support. it was less than $100 shipped for the deal I got. I will replace mine, and I want to do some reinforcing of it right out of the gate. Not sure what though, since a weld will weaken sheet metal, and crack right next to the weld. I like the rod reinforcement idea along the edges of things. Not sure if plates and bolting and welding to the sheet metal is a good idea or not.

Thanks in advance.

 

Where did you order it from?

 

carparts.com I think.



I actually ordered it a long time ago and haven't gotten around to this project yet, considering the rubber OEM bushings are doing so much better for extending the life...
Sorry, it was more than $100 shipped... been so long I didn't even remember... LOL. I got a quote for OEM and it was something like $500.

I see now they have other models and versions... some are out of stock and they are more expensive.

 

The problem is the oem rubber bushings disinegrate really fast.

 

for how cheap they are, get spares... that is what I did. If I see one starting to collapse or look tired, boom, 10 mins later back in business with some support again. But not rigid support!

seriously, compared to poly all around, new OEM all around was a night and day difference, complete change for the better getting new OEM and out with the poly

 

Thank you.

 

Yeah, I don't doubt that you're right about the poly bushings. It's a double-edged sword, unfortunately...
If I had known about this issue ahead of time, that might have pushed me to stick with the factory rubber crap, and replace them every oil change or more. But either way, it's a pathetic job of engineering by Toyota.

Anyway, I just pulled the front end apart to check on things recently, and I didn't see anything new or worse than before, so it seems like it's doing the job.
I did also look in other areas further back on the fenders, etc, and couldn't see any issues.
The caveat, though, is that the truck does make a lot more noise now, in terms of like pops and creaks up front. Given that everything is looking good, I'm pretty sure it's just a result of my decision to bolt in the extra reinforcements, and now they're just moving and binding a bit under flex.