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Cracked valve cover

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by ThunderOne, Dec 6, 2017.

  1. Dec 6, 2017 at 9:13 PM
    #21
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Here’s what it looks like after only lightly tightening after backing the bolts out. What do you think? Still urgent?

    B69EEE72-3EC1-40A7-893E-4B2DA00F7318.jpg
     
  2. Dec 6, 2017 at 9:16 PM
    #22
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    JB weld and run it till you get another. Or $3 epoxy whatever floats your boat.
     
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  3. Dec 6, 2017 at 9:45 PM
    #23
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Fuck yeah. I’m about that JB weld life.
     
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  4. Dec 6, 2017 at 10:11 PM
    #24
    License2Ill

    License2Ill Woke like a Coma Toyota Tacoma

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    It's a dry heat thou, AZ
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    Bailing wire & Duct tape
    Jb weld won't work here. LH side under the oil fill cap and on the RH valve cover back outerside near the firewall are cantilevered out and flex. Pretty much the reason when they're over-torqed they crack on both valve covers.
     
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  5. Dec 6, 2017 at 10:18 PM
    #25
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Got it. Thought they were surfaces sitting flush against the head. I thought you'd be able to stop any vacuum leaks since it was already being held in place by the bolts. My bad.
     
  6. Dec 6, 2017 at 10:20 PM
    #26
    License2Ill

    License2Ill Woke like a Coma Toyota Tacoma

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    It's a dry heat thou, AZ
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    Yeah all the fastening points of the valve covers have a solid backing, except for those two bolts.
     
    Dalandser[QUOTED] likes this.
  7. Dec 6, 2017 at 10:36 PM
    #27
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Dammit. How will I know I have a vacuum leak? I started it up and idled it after I changed my starter, didn’t notice anything unusual at idle or small stationary revs.
     
  8. Dec 6, 2017 at 10:37 PM
    #28
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    money light comes on :)

    That or sound coming from the crack :)
     
  9. Dec 6, 2017 at 10:46 PM
    #29
    Brice

    Brice Turbo Member

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    This happened to me lol. I had a guy weld it
     
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  10. Dec 6, 2017 at 10:49 PM
    #30
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Welp i couldn’t hear anything coming from the crack. Maybe I didn’t crack it enough. Lol
     
  11. Dec 6, 2017 at 10:49 PM
    #31
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne [OP] Well-Known Member

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    How???
     
  12. Dec 6, 2017 at 10:50 PM
    #32
    Brice

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    He used a tig welder then ground it down. He welded in and out
     
  13. Dec 6, 2017 at 10:51 PM
    #33
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    With a welder?

    just replace it.
     
  14. Dec 6, 2017 at 11:01 PM
    #34
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Must have been pretty skilled!
     
  15. Dec 6, 2017 at 11:01 PM
    #35
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne [OP] Well-Known Member

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    You hush
     
  16. Dec 6, 2017 at 11:01 PM
    #36
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    TBH the crack isn't that easy to see in the pic, do you have a better one or am I blind? lol
     
  17. Dec 6, 2017 at 11:02 PM
    #37
    Brice

    Brice Turbo Member

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    He did it for like 10 or 15 bucks I think
     
  18. Dec 6, 2017 at 11:05 PM
    #38
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Is this it?

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Dec 7, 2017 at 4:57 AM
    #39
    Timmah!

    Timmah! Well-Known Member

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    It's my belief that the valve cover cracking has more to do with uneven tightening as opposed to too much torque. If the bolts aren't evenly and gradually tightened, you may be causing the valve cover to try to bend. If one side is tightened down pretty good while the other side is loose, when you go to tighten the loose side, the valve cover has to try to bend into place against the surface of the head and it's not going to because it's a cast piece. It's going to break. Your valve cover bolts might have been just loose enough and you didn't tighten them down uniformly. Just like any engine part with multiple bolts, you should tighten the bolts down evenly and gradually in a crossing pattern until you bring it to the torque value or until you think it's tight enough with your calibrated elbow.
     
  20. Dec 7, 2017 at 6:34 AM
    #40
    01GreenTacoma

    01GreenTacoma Well-Known Member

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    I bought an inch/lb torque wrench a few weeks ago when I replaced mine so I wouldn't be guessing about torque. Best money I spent haha
     
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