Crank pully

So looked under my hood while the truck was running and the inner pully closest to the block is noticely wobbling pretty good. Thinking that's a ticking time bomb has anybody used lc engineering underdrive pully or should I just replace with an oem. Posted a video on YouTube but it doesn't really do justice. Planning on doing the front main seal as well if I tear into this.
LINK:
https://youtu.be/h2Yyrzm8duY

 

OEM and tighten your stock one down first. It's probably fine. It probably didn't get torqued down properly when the timing belt was last replaced. 217lb/ft iirc

 

The rubber is definitely separating from the metal. I have everything apart now and I've tried everything to my knowledge getting this bolt loosened and it Just won't budge. I'm not stopping until I either get it over or have to put it back together but I really don't want to do that cause tonight will be a big waste of time. Anybody with some tips or anything please give me a text haha 7174350054

 

I use a large chain wrench on the smooth part of the pulley,it will ends up resting against the frame rail. Then breaker bar with a cheater pipe in the bolt. After you get the bolt out wd40 on the pulley where it meets the crank and let it sit for 30 min, usually slide right of after. Good luck

 

Subbed.

 

The easiest way to loosen the bolt is wedge a breaker bar against the frame rail and bump the starter for half a second (remove the EFI fuse so it cant start). The harder part is tightening it back to spec. I have a stick so I was able to put it into 5th and reef on it. If you have an auto, you will have to prevent the engine from turning with a chain wrench as mentioned earlier or something similar.

 

Once I was able to get another person to sit in the cab and hold the brakes was able to break it with this beast. What a bolt ahaha and what a difference this new pulley makes for the old worn out one. The highest torque wrench I have goes to 150 ft lbs so I guesstimated from there

 

Fwiw auto parts stores usually lend out 250lb torque wrenches as part of their free loaner programs. It's what I used when I did my TB.

 

I have an LCE on my 2rz plus electric fan. 100% worth it, especially if you have to replace anyway. Been running mine at least 5 years now.

I used the "Wedge a breaker against frame and hit the starter" method after not being successful with impact and such. Worked almost immediately.